Mid seventies Melton
 

Posted in the vintage forum.........http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...0#post10853900

Hi, I have a Melton frame that I bought in the mid seventies serial # 1153066 stamped on the bottom bracket. Any info on that code and any info on current value would be appreciated. Thanks in advance,
Tom

A little more info.....Original Mike Melton touring frame, 23inch - 59cm., Reynolds 501 aluminum, serial # 1153056,original owner, 12 speed.
Mid 70's build, original paint very good condition, no dents, accidents or rust. Approx bike weight 24lbs. as built.

Bike is currently fitted with Shimano 600 series crank, brakes and rear derailleur, front deraileur is dura ace,
suntour downtube shifters, mavric rims with specialized touring II tires, Avocet touring II seat.
paint is 95% and shines nicely, Bike is in great working order.

What's your location? You could probably get $300 for it on eBay.

New York, Thanks one just sold on ebay for that price and it was not as nice as this one, I have it listed now for a little more that.

I checked your auction, frame is steel, not aluminum. Fork is bent. Otherwise, a really nice bike. Reserve will scare off bidders, better off just starting it higher. I would get the fork checked by a shop, that will hold back buyers. Should be an easy fix, and I do not see any top tube or down tube damage.

Fork can be symmetrical and bent.

You could improve the auction by embedding full size pics (via photobucket or Flickr) in the text of the ad.

Thanks for the info, you sure its steel? I have more fork picks I don't see where its bent. Check it out and thanks for the help. Tom

The bend is front to back. Fork legs are bent back towards the main frame. Put a straight edge on the center line of the head tube pointed downward. On a straight fork, the lower legs will be on the same line as the headtube. See my pictures below, where I used a four foot level as a straight edge.

Your auction description, your answer to the one question are all red lights of a seller that is not bike savvy. That is fine, but that can cost you money in an auction. Please realize that a lot of people on this forum are fanatics (like me), that look at and buy a lot of bikes. Like selling anything: guitars, cars, computers, real estate, etc., people with expertise in that particular area tend to do better.

Yes, do a Google search on Reynolds 501, it will clearly reinforce that the frame is steel. Also try a magnet test. Aluminum is not magnetic.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reynolds_Cycle_Technology

If you are going to prove to potential bidders that the fork on this bike is not bent, you need some pictures taken with a straight edge like this. Notice the level is centered on the handlebar stem, the head tube, and the legs of the fork:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1296/...d02315cd_b.jpg


And some close ups like this:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1287/...e8478cd5_b.jpg

Thank you, for your help, I'll check the frame when I get home and adjust the ad and the $, I don't want to screw anybody.

All of Bill's advice is spot on (and given the fork looks bent from a couple different angles I would think it's not just camera distortion). One other thing to add: In many cases when the fork is bent, there may be additional frame damage that occurred from whatever bent the fork, i.e., curb, pothole, gator (almost happened), bumper, RR tracks, etc.). Check the underside of the downtube to make sure there are no creases or ripples. That's the post common spot, but run your fingers over all forward facing tubes to make sure their perfectly straight. If not, that also needs to be disclosed.

Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, it was quite a good play, don't you think?

you guys were right. An avid riding friend was over the house this afternoon and we looked at the front fork, The fork was off 3/16 of an inch back from the centerline of the head tube, thank you. It is now in the bike shop being brought back to spec. I will post pic on ebay when done and I changed pricing as to reflect my error.

Once the fork is repaired, assuming there is NO DAMAGE to the top tube and down tube, then the price should not be hurt at all. The key problem to look for is any rippling/buckling of the main frame tubes. If there is any such buckling, it usually occurs really close to the head tube lugs. I don't see any such damage in your pictures. But nothing beats seeing it in person, and running a finger along the tubes. Given the minor damage of the fork, I am not that surprised that the main frame may be fine. But once the main frame is compromised, then you have real issues.

I would have a good bike shop inspect the frame carefully (one that knows and appreciates a nice vintage steel bike like your Melton). Their seal of approval will help a lot.

Sometimes a crash doesn't show up as tube distortion, but as paint disruption - looks for multiple lines in the paint or missing paint located behind the lugs and perpendicular to where the front end could have been impacted. Check both above and below the top and down tubes.

I've had the bike over 30 years, never crashed never been down, I don't remember hitting anything that would bend a rim let alone knock the fork out of
spec. Paint and tubes are fine no rippling or distortion at all. I guess its just the accumulation of 30 years of road that gradually thru it off.

Congratulations. I see the auction ended at $350 plus $95 s/h.

I thought it was a fair price , bike is now headed out to the west coast, thanks to all for your input.