Tandem Tom

So I have started riding my 1984 Miyata 610 and am REALLY liking it. But yesterday we went for a ride out in Amish country and got caught in the rain. Well Amish country road + horses + rain and no fender. Lets just say all the clothes really needed washing!
Now for fenders! I am leaning toward metal ones after looking over the Velo Orange website
So to those of you who have installed metal fenders did you have to modify/cut the fenders at the chain stays? I am going to run 35mm tires,Panarcers, so it looks like I need to use 45mm fenders. But the ID at the chain stays is smaller.
Advice?? Pics!!!

seedsbelize 

Maybe not what you want, but I recently bought metal fenders, designed for 28"wheels, for the grand sum of US$2.50 for the pair. I simply bent them to fit between the stays, and they are working beautifully Like putting a 130 mm hub into 126 mm stays, only the opposite. This on an 84 Letour Luxe.

Velocivixen

I had VO hammered fenders (700C) installed on my Motobecane Grand Jubile by a shop. There's a metal piece included in the hardware with the bike that attaches to the chain stay bridge then attaches the fender about 1" or so above the chain stay. Bike shop said they didn't like bending the fender and didn't want to scratch the frame. It worked fine and, unless you are extremely particular aesthetically, you wouldn't notice.

Lascauxcaveman 

Got pix of the clearance between tire and rear "brake bridge" and tire and top of fork?

I got the the 45mm VO stainless fenders and had to dent them to clear the brake bridge on my Nishiki Landau. Then when I moved over to my Lambert, there was tons of clearance everywhere. So it all depends.

repechage

Installation dependent for sure. A bit of wood, a saber saw, a disc or belt sander, a file and you have a form if needed, teach the fender who is the boss. I like the fender to clear below the chain stays to help keep things tidy. Fastback seat stays are always a challenge.

Might as well buy one of those nice VO reflectors too.

BluesDaddy

The VO fenders definitely need to be fitted (gives new dimension to the British meaning of fit) to the particular frame. As mentioned above, making a wood form and shaping the fender over it with a mallet is a time-honored artisanal technique. I will also agree that the rear fender should extend below the chainstays to protect the BB area from spray. Finish off the front fender with a mud flap for extra protection.

Velocivixen

I'm about to install these VO fenders on a different bike. Would you care to tell me or direct me to a place so I may learn the fine art of shaping a fender with a mallet?

Thanks.

gugie 

4 bikes in, I've always cut the fenders around the stays, just shy of touching the stays so they don't get scratched up. You could make some wood forms and pound them into shape, but this is just easier for me.

I always cut them a bit on the "large" side, then fold them in-technically making a "hem", just like the original edge has (V.O. fenders). A cardboard template is useful to check clearances. Use a fine permanent marker to draw the final dimension onto the fender, offset a bit for the hem, then cut. I find a grinding wheel works fine, nibbling a bit at a time. Use the grinder to carefully remove burrs, then a small set of vice grips to start the bend. You can finish with the fender against a wood block and a mallet to minimize scratching and denting, but really, this is down in an area that no one notices. Make sure the fender drops a bit below the bottom bracket, as others have suggested.

If you want to leave room for a rear tail light wire, you could use a bit of wire hanger and form the hem around it.

FrenchFit 

I've installed Honjo Fluted and hammered similar to VOs. I've had to dent/reshape the Honjos a little, and I think the guidance from gugie is right on if you want a custom install. If you haven't pulled the trigger yet you might want to reconsider the SKS chromoplastic fenders. After years of use and transport abuse the SKS fenders are as new, the metal fenders required regular tweaking - and they tend to be noisy. I use leather washers on all connecting points for the metal fenders, but you still hear every stone and twig that gets thrown up into the channel. The SKS fenders don't vibrate. If you want the look, the metal fenders are the winners - but they are not functional winners.

long john

try this

Tandem Tom

Thanks or the response!! Now another few questions.
Re: Mud Flap- Are they typically used only on the front fender? Also now I need to decided on the type of metal fender. Smooth, fluted, or hammered. I am starting to lean toward the fluted as I think the hammered is maybe too much.
Thoughts?

Velocivixen

@long john - Thanks! I've searched online and had not found that!

I like these fenders, but out of stock.

VO Facette 45mm Fenders 700c - 700c - Fender Sets - Fenders, Accessories, Hardware - Accessories

Road Fan

Front mud-flaps are mainly to protect the feet and drivetrain from front wheel water. Because the fork turns, it needs to have some width.

Rear mud-flaps are mainly to protect the following riders from rear wheel water. They can be narrow.

Both of them give better protection, the closer to the ground they reach.

If you're touring or rando-ing in a paceline, I think you need both.

gugie 

+1 on Road Fan's mud flap explanation

As far as style goes, well, they're styles. Some have reported less life out of hammered types, I don't have enough miles ridden on a set to tell you. Let that be a personal preference.

Hammered - really catches your eye, bling on a bike


Fluted - more elegant approach


Plain - I chose this approach when there was a lot going on visually


Note to self: need mudflaps all around!

The Golden Boy 

I got a set of VO Zeppelin fenders- I had designs on putting them on my 1985 Trek 620 and 1984 Voyageur SP.

I had no problems with the rear- but there's not a lot of room under the fork crown and between the fork blades. I ran into the same sort of problem with the SKS Chromoplastics on my Trek 720. There's not a lot of room for fenders on these old grand touring bikes. Go figure...

I've been riding the VSP with only the rear fender on - I might try to fit the lonely SKS front fender on that bike.


And as @gugie says- the fluted fenders are the most elegant- with the sort of art deco styling.

simmonsgc

I think you'll find the VO fenders fit your Miyata just fine. Since you asked for pics...

gugie 

I hear you. On my Super Sport SP "Schwinnger" project I wanted to run Jack Browns, which are 33.3mm. Test fit on the front fork gave me only 5mm clearance. I did a grind and file job, then brazed a threaded bridge under the steerer in lieu of a daruma. An ultra low head bolt attaches the fender to the fork to minimize clearance loss.

Here's the "was" shot-only 5mm clearance

Here's the "is", with 12 mm clearance. The "bridge" is some .120 CrMo stock sheet, with a 5mm water bottle boss brazed in

The fenderline came out on the short side, but acceptable.


My flickr album, for "the rest of the story"

simpleton.

I've used VO smooth and Fluted Fenders and both scuff and scratch very easily. I think the hammered would hide a lot of this but do not have experience with them. I just Installed VO Zeppelin's on my bike last Friday. Still need to tweak the fender line a bit but they work well.

gugie 

I think Grant would call that "beausage".

Oops, wrong thread.

:-)

BluesDaddy

Velo Orange Fluted on 1984 Le Tour Luxe

simpleton.

touche

Tandem Tom

Got my SKS Long Boards yesterday and started fitting them this AM. Had to shape the end where it meets the chain stay bridge and now need to go to the hardware store and get a spacer. The Rivendell installation video was a great help. Will post some pics when complete.

bear_a_bug 

That is such a cool project. If I could only get my hands on some welding equipment (and gain some skill with it), I would love to re-work old, good frames with custom elements like that.

Great album, and the bike turned out great, too!

Velocivixen

How did you shape the SKS? Did you just squeeze them in there? My friend, who is very particular with fender installs will carefully use a heat g*n to soften then bend/massage the plastic fender into position. Works great. Yes, we need photos.

Tandem Tom

I will post pic but I used a Sharpie to draw a profile/cut-out. Then I used tin snips and sand paper to finish. Worked like a charm!