MacGyverBurrito

I just picked up a Bridgestone t500.
the seatpost was stuck but i took a chance.
I actually got it loose with some heavy freeze off spraying.
just as I was peaking on my "removed seatpost" high, I went to remove the cranks and almost stripped the threads. both sides are like this. can I save the crankset? its nothing special but I'm making this a budget commuter and want to keep as many parts as I can. I don't have anymore freeze off so Ill have to wait to try that. any info will be appreciated

The crank is a Sakae sa triple

SkyDog75

A lot of auto parts stores like AutoZone and Advance Auto Parts have free loaner tools available. Drop by and see if you can borrow a 2-jaw gear puller. (Or you could buy one, of course.) Another option, suggested on these forums by FBinNY, is to use Jacobs chuck removal wedges.

There are a bunch of threads on these forums, particularly the mechanics' forum, about this exact problem. I'm sure you can find even more (sometimes creative) suggestions.

whatwolf

If you were able to take the bolts out, try just riding it and see if the crank arms loosen. But be careful, of course.

MacGyverBurrito

ill try the gear puller. there's an auto zone across the street from my house.
I didn't know this tool existed. I should do a more thorough search next time.

I was able to remove the bolts
But I'm reluctant to try removing it by riding.
I've heard it ruins the crank and I want to try and reuse it

Metacortex

Are you *sure* you removed the washers under the fixing bolts *before* inserting the tool? You didn't mention the washers and leaving them in is a very common mistake that causes the problem you describe.

MacGyverBurrito

this crankset has a combined washer and nut.

Eric S.

It's been quite awhile since I've removed a square-taper crank, but with a properly threaded removal tool it doesn't take much threaded force to get it off.

I'm wondering if an arm could be pounded off with a piece of wood placed on the crank arm near the spindle and whacking it a few times. It would require getting the frame into some sort of orientation for secure hits; on some blocks of wood with a towel over them, perhaps.

eschlwc

what crank puller are you using? the park all-in-one tool (with attached wrench) is for crap. i really like the 'wrench force' puller you can find online for $10 shipped.

and clean and lube the threads of both puller and crank.

i recently had a tough time using my chain tool. i was about to buy a new one when i cleaned it and added new grease to its threads. worked like new again.

MacGyverBurrito

I'm actually using a really cheap puller that I bought when I first started working on bikes. I was pretty cheap then. I don't think its the puller because I've removed several cranks with it and this has only happened twice. coincidentally they're both bridgestones. I guess it is time to upgrade puller though.

I think the cranks are just stuck on the bottom bracket.

Prowler 

I've had no trouble with the Park cwp-7 but do not like the ccp-22. As @eschlwc suggested, the "pro" version of the tool is harder to use. On the cwp-7 you use a socket wrench or a GearWrench like box. The ratchet feature enables you to line up the wrench with the crank arm so you can torque one relative to the other for a very controlled force. I always clean the threads on the crank and the tool first with mineral spirits and a tooth brush (you don't EVER throw out a toothbrush do you?). Then thread the tool in nice and easy to ensure you have fully engaged all the threads. Then torque away.

Oh, when I had to use the ccp-22, I pulled the pedals then lashed the crank arm to the chain stay with rope thru the theaded hole. I could then torque on the wrench against that lashed down arm. The ccp-22 is really a poor design.

If the threads started failing I'd switch to a gear puller as that also applies force to the end of the spindle against the arm. Wedges or the Jacobs chuck removers mentioned above would apply force to the arm AND the BB bearings and races. I prefer to not do that. Very hard metal there. Either the bearings or the race could be damaged.

I also use a very good hot air blower (professional hand held thing, shaped like a hair dryer, nudge nudge, wink wink) on these jobs vs a torch. My shop is wood framed and open flames around oil and grease make me quiver.

RobbieTunes

The instant I get any sign that the threads are stripping in the crank arm, I stop, and go to a 3-prong gear puller.

It worked very well. Probably the main reason why they're still used for so many things.
However, I turned it tight, then gave it about 1/16 of a turn, then waited.
I came back a few minutes later, turned it some more, left it sit to think about it's mistakes.
A couple of trips back to it, over about a 15-minute span, and on one partial turn it came right off.
No marks on anything, threads intact.

randyjawa 

Loosen off the adjustable cup as much as you can. Now, place something to act as spacers between the crank and fixed cup. Install you crank puller and load it up a bit. Next, tighten up your adjustable cup, adding to the force applied by the puller. A little back and forth should break it free. Or, once loaded, hit the alloy with a hot hair dryer.

This, without the hair dryer, has worked for me, when I did the threadoops thing.

eschlwc

say no more, say no more ...

oddjob2

Pedro's crank puller is more robust than the Park

miamijim

I use an old worn out X brand puller most of time. having removed thousands upon thousands of arms I have a good feel as to what'll come off easy and what wont.

When I encounter a stubborn crank I give it a 5 second or so blast from a propane torch. With heat they come off easy nice n easy. And before all the wanna be engineers step in from BM let it be known I'm don't heat them to a temp anywhere near that which will harm anything.

ascherer 

+1 for the 3-armed gear puller. Harbor Tools...

dddd

If you get the puller good and tight, then leave it tightened in the arm, you can than straddle the bike and stand on the pedals with the cranks horizontal.

You don't need or want to ride the bike, but just jump on the pedals good and hard, which puts some twisting flex into the square end of the spindle. You'll want to lean your shoulder on a wall as you do this.

Before climbing off the bike, reverse the cranks 180-degrees and jump on the pedals again. Repeat this a couple of times for good measure (and for an exercise break). Just don't fall over.

Now dismount the bike see of you can further tighten the puller. Normally with tight or "stuck" crankarms, there will be some bit of yield at the wrench or handle, indicating that some slight movement along the taper has occurred!
Another round of jumping on the pedals, reversing the crank (and re-torqueing the puller) should show further progress, and I have never had an arm not pull free after the third round.

I concur with miamijim that heat, not freezing, is your friend here, since the alloy is what is shrinking from freezing, not the steel, comparatively. Save the freeze for the seatposts and stems.
But heat will also expand the threaded bore diameter of the crankarm, possibly encouraging thread pullout in some minor way, so just don't do this (heating) with a 23mm TA puller in a 23.3mm Stronglight arm.

I've seen big guys rip the handle free from Park pullers (good for tension-breaking laughs, outright hilarity even), but since I'm not strong enough to do that, I always use my "footwork" method and it has never failed me.

xiaoman1 

Hello,
Is the thread sizing the same for all cranks or are there differences, if so how would OP determine threading on the crank in question?
Regards, Ben

dddd

+1 ^^^

(Cotter press tools also), makes a BIG difference.

dddd

Any square-taper cranks/pullers made in the last 35 years will almost always be the same 22mm puller threading as old Campy, unless perhaps it's a specialty tool from Stein or Campagnolo that is made specifically for old French cranks or for C-Record reverse threading, respectively.

To xiaoman1, Wrench Force tools were/are marketed by Trek, made by Snap-On. The one's I've tried are very good.

xiaoman1 

dddd, That's why I am here ...thanks for the information. Regards, ben

MacGyverBurrito

all great sounding methods of removal.
I'm going to run down the list this weekend when I have time.
I took it apart for cleaning and it doesn't have chain or handlebars to try dddd's method.

by the way can you believe this thing had steel handlebars? what's up with that? high tensile fork too. still a nice bike but I found that strange especially the steel bars.