Vintage mystery bike? new photos
04-20-15, 02:28 PM
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Vintage mystery bike? new photos
# 7681 stamped on seat stay, track bike with added parts?? seat post Titan...[
04-20-15, 03:22 PM
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Does it have track dropouts? Any idea on the seatpost diameter and the BB threading?
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04-20-15, 04:53 PM
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Upon further inspection its a very dirty Chrome frame, campagnolo bottom bracket, inside the crank arms ( close to the braket) crude inscription 170 M...
04-21-15, 12:26 PM
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might be Belgian (maybe Swiss), don't think it's French with the 26.8 seatpost. Flandria, Libertas, Titan? Just some blind guesses to research...
04-21-15, 04:15 PM
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There used to be an emblem on seat post, still have the outline, its like detective work, definitely some quality Campagnolo parts, mixed with basic stuff, track bike with stuff added is my guess. Will take it all apart.
04-28-15, 04:10 PM
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So I got the Campagnolo bottom bracket end bolts off , the crank arms don't move? are they screwed in?
04-28-15, 04:23 PM
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https://www.parktool.com/product/univ...d-cranks-cwp-7
04-28-15, 04:56 PM
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04-29-15, 06:54 AM
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Nope. Different companies.
My best guess: Custom 50's french (in spite of 26.8 seat post) track frame/dual purpose, due to fairly relaxed geometry and age of headset. Lugs are really nice, 'Herse'esque. Are the brake drillings original? Pls, some more pictures of rear drop outs and seat cluster!
If french, the best english speaking source of info would be Norris Lockley (Bespoke of Settle). Best of luck!
My best guess: Custom 50's french (in spite of 26.8 seat post) track frame/dual purpose, due to fairly relaxed geometry and age of headset. Lugs are really nice, 'Herse'esque. Are the brake drillings original? Pls, some more pictures of rear drop outs and seat cluster!
If french, the best english speaking source of info would be Norris Lockley (Bespoke of Settle). Best of luck!
Last edited by starground; 04-29-15 at 07:14 AM.
04-29-15, 07:04 AM
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What??? Only 2 wheels?
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That front brake caliper looks to have been changed or at least taken off and put back on sort of incorrectly. There should be a curved-surface spacer behind the caliper to fit the curvature on the front of the fork crown. It was left out, which also explains why the bolt protrudes too far from the back of the crown. It suggests you shouldn't put too much stock in the components as an indicator of its heritage.
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04-29-15, 07:39 AM
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Definitly the frame, then a mishmach of components, mostly basic, handle bar is Comte de couchy by Mavic, some value to that, that 23mm crank puller is not an easy to find piece, gotta check fleybay like I need one more tool I wont use much or never...
will post a few more pictures this weekend, I really like the lugs.
will post a few more pictures this weekend, I really like the lugs.
04-29-15, 08:26 AM
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What??? Only 2 wheels?
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Specifically a TA crank puller. If you keep the bike and that crank, as either a single or a double, you will use the puller every time you service the BB. I've bought quite a few tools over the years for which I could see only a single use at the time, and then later been really glad I had it.
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04-29-15, 08:39 AM
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Ditto. A 23 mm TA specific puller aint cheap, but well worth it for that crank and bike. Contact Jim Stein, Pistard. He makes great tools.
04-29-15, 10:50 AM
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I would take my time with this one. Don't damage anything. Be sure that the puller is first threaded fully into each crankarm before doing the pulling, and be sure to remove the bolt washers first.
Gotta let Norris see this, again just take your time since it's a very interesting bike.
More photos please!
Gotta let Norris see this, again just take your time since it's a very interesting bike.
More photos please!
04-29-15, 11:31 AM
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I have a TA crank puller (at least I'm 99.9% certain that I do). Somebody willing to vouch for Pistard?
04-29-15, 10:04 PM
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You can get any crank off without a puller. Get a set of wooden or plastic building shims for shimming like door jambs(they are wedge shaped). Use 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom. Place them pointing to each other and overlapping between the BB and the crank arm. Tap the shims with a hammer alternating left and right for the upper then left and right for the lower, then back to the upper and so on. Do it a little bit at a time. By alternating left/right and upper/ lower the wedges overlap more and more and will progressively push the crank arm off keeping it straight. Works every time and avoids buying (if you even can) a lot of weird pullers. Hope this helps.
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r
04-30-15, 02:24 PM
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