Flyboy718

Where is the right location on the saddle for my 'sit bones' of my backside to be positioned on the saddle? I have made several long rides up to 80 miles and about 30 miles in it starts to hurt and I start moving all over the saddle trying to find a spot that doesn't hurt and tough it out for a long time.

icepick_trotsky 

Sounds like your saddle isn't right for your rear.

Lascauxcaveman 

For me, the good spot is way back near the rivets on Brooks Professional, a little farther forward on a B17.

On a really narrow saddle "nowhere" is good.

YBMV (your butt may vary)

RobbieTunes

Your pelvic "sit bones" should ideally sit just forward of the top of the "wings" on the saddle, and be comfortable, well after 30 miles.
There are several sites where you can measure your likely optimal width, and John Cobb and a couple of other sites have info, as well.
I've not had many problems, and wear cycling shorts or underwear whenever I ride.

rhm

My sense of it is that any saddle is going to be too wide at the back and too narrow at the tip, and just right somewhere in between. On the perfect saddle that spot is as Robbie describes, but you should be able to find that spot on just about any saddle. The difference between a narrow and a standard Brooks is not that much.

randyjawa 

Some saddles just don't work for me. Generally, I try to sit my sit bones just at the rear of the saddle, a touch ahead of the rivets. I also prefer a slight tilt to the front and a slight angle to the drive side.

I have been a Brooks fan for a long time, however; there is, at least, one Brooks that I find miserably uncomfortable - the B15...



My Brooks B17 Narrow is very comfortable...



...as is my Brooks B17 Special (perfect right out of the box, no break-in required for this one)...

ramzilla

I found these really cheap seats with springs at Niagra Cycle. They're wonderful.

Wileyone 

Got us all beat with that one...

BiciMan

I also feel best (only) on my sit bones, and am constantly checking throughout my ride that I'm on them; and, my best fit is also on the back of saddles I come to like.

big chainring 

I never heard of sit bones until I started on this forum. I don't think I have them.

JohnDThompson 

"Sit bones" AKA "ischial tuberosities:"

SJX426 

I believe someone mentioned that the distance between the sit bones varies as you lean forward from an upright position. Therefore, the right saddle is dependent on your riding position.

I purchased a Terry saddle for my wife recently because she was having discomfort with the $30 "Ladies" saddle she was using. I picked the Terry per the recommendations on riding position. She is pleased! When we took the tandem out with the old saddle, she would last only 1 or 2 miles before needing to stand up. After the winter break, we went out last Saturday with the Terry and she didn't complain after 5.5 miles. She admonished me not to touch the position of the saddle, or else! It does make a huge difference to find the right one.

I am a Brooks fan too with several Pro's and a Swallow. My 1972 Pro is the most comfortable one, even with the checked surface. I have no idea how long I can last on that one. I do know the Titanium Flite is only good for 30 miles.
@randyjawa second picture shows the indent of where the sit bones have molded the leather. That is about the right spot for me too.

Flyboy718

I used a plumb bob to get my seat in the right position last night and that made me move it forward about a quarter of an inch. I think my sit bones are on top of the beginning of where the seat flares towards the back. I will ride and try this.

SJX426 

Try and ride works best!

I find that how I apply force to the pedals makes a difference. If I move back on the saddle, I can apply force earlier on the crank rotation. My tendency is to sit further forward, and sometimes get right over the crank. Position it where you feel most comfortable for the way you ride. There is no right or wrong position, just a zone most people find effective.

When you find it, measure it so you can transfer the position to other bikes. distances should be measure as near as possible to the same locations. I like to use the crank axle/spindle centerline (not the pedal!) along the seat tube to top of saddle, back of the handlebar to nose of the saddle (if it is the same model otherwise use the sit bone location), and angle of the saddle as reference points for measurement. That should get you close. This eliminates the frame size but does not take seat tube angle into account or top tube length. My check is to see if the front hub is blocked by the handle bar when in the most frequently used hand position.

randyjawa 

What I have learned about saddles, over the years, is that your butt must break-in too!

My butt always hurts at the start of riding season, regardless of what saddle I ride. A few rides later, no pain in the butt, unless I forget to bring my riding shorts, with me, to Jamaica, which proved to be, both a literal and figurative - pain in the butt.

Blue Belly

Absolutely! But a wrong saddle hurts in a way that is downright painful. Find a shop with tester saddles & try out a few. its an investment worth getting right the first time.
It also helps to buy a saddle the won't be discontinued.... I have Storika's on all of my bikes. its about $600 to buy a N.O.S one now. I hope they decide to reissue, some day!

Flog00

Ass hatchet.

Shark, the necessary evolution of the saddle | Essax 2.0

Essax-Shark-Saddle by flog00, on Flickr