Frame Saver, Is it worthwhile for older untreated frames?
#1
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Frame Saver, Is it worthwhile for older untreated frames?
Hey all, I know it's always a good idea to treat the insides of steel bike frame tubes before the rust has a chance to begin, but when aquiring an older steel frame where you know little to nothing of its previous ownership, is it still a good idea to do the Frame Saver thing or would it just be a waste of time? I guess I'm really asking, does the treatment only prevent rusting from beginning or does it stop rusting from continuing also? This is not something I feel like making guesses on, so any REAL knowledge would be much appreciated.
#2
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Hey all, I know it's always a good idea to treat the insides of steel bike frame tubes before the rust has a chance to begin, but when aquiring an older steel frame where you know little to nothing of its previous ownership, is it still a good idea to do the Frame Saver thing or would it just be a waste of time? I guess I'm really asking, does the treatment only prevent rusting from beginning or does it stop rusting from continuing also? This is not something I feel like making guesses on, so any REAL knowledge would be much appreciated.
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#4
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I was also misremembering stuff about rust converters.
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#5
Anywhere I roam
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Thanks, I think each of your answers pretty much sums it up about as good as it can be anyway.
#6
Still learning
Most of the bikes I work on average about 30 years of age, and for the most part are fairly clean as far as oxidation. Sometimes the bb shell interior shows some rust but a spritz of WD40 and a wipe with a paper towel cleans it right up. As such, I don't see a need for frame saver aerosols, beyond a spritz of WD40 and greasing of all inserted parts, figuring they'll last my lifetime at least.
I am far more concerned with surface rust and paint bubbling, particularly if the bike may have been used during the winter (salt) months or at the Joisey shore and skip most frames with material issues. In rare instances I treat most scrapes and kickstand damaged areas accordingly with nail polish or enamel.
I am far more concerned with surface rust and paint bubbling, particularly if the bike may have been used during the winter (salt) months or at the Joisey shore and skip most frames with material issues. In rare instances I treat most scrapes and kickstand damaged areas accordingly with nail polish or enamel.
#7
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Thread Starter
Most of the bikes I work on average about 30 years of age, and for the most part are fairly clean as far as oxidation. Sometimes the bb shell interior shows some rust but a spritz of WD40 and a wipe with a paper towel cleans it right up. As such, I don't see a need for frame saver aerosols, beyond a spritz of WD40 and greasing of all inserted parts, figuring they'll last my lifetime at least.
I am far more concerned with surface rust and paint bubbling, particularly if the bike may have been used during the winter (salt) months or at the Joisey shore and skip most frames with material issues. In rare instances I treat most scrapes and kickstand damaged areas accordingly with nail polish or enamel.
I am far more concerned with surface rust and paint bubbling, particularly if the bike may have been used during the winter (salt) months or at the Joisey shore and skip most frames with material issues. In rare instances I treat most scrapes and kickstand damaged areas accordingly with nail polish or enamel.
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To make sure I'm getting this, on a older bike that's never been treated there isn't really a need as any existing rust will always be rust? If so cool, then I won't have to disassemble any of existing bikes I have.
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Most of the bikes I work on average about 30 years of age, and for the most part are fairly clean as far as oxidation. Sometimes the bb shell interior shows some rust but a spritz of WD40 and a wipe with a paper towel cleans it right up. As such, I don't see a need for frame saver aerosols, beyond a spritz of WD40 and greasing of all inserted parts, figuring they'll last my lifetime at least.
I am far more concerned with surface rust and paint bubbling, particularly if the bike may have been used during the winter (salt) months or at the Joisey shore and skip most frames with material issues. In rare instances I treat most scrapes and kickstand damaged areas accordingly with nail polish or enamel.
I am far more concerned with surface rust and paint bubbling, particularly if the bike may have been used during the winter (salt) months or at the Joisey shore and skip most frames with material issues. In rare instances I treat most scrapes and kickstand damaged areas accordingly with nail polish or enamel.
#11
Still learning
+ 1. Maybe in some climates rust on the inside is a problem but by and large that is not an issue. I have one bike with that issue but I know it was kept outside for many years before I picked it up. It's a relatively heavy duty utility bike (a bridgestone BB-1) and I'm not too worried about the rust on the inside. It will outlast me.
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it just gives me a little more peace of mind and only takes five minutes.
i've used boeshield inside the tubes of all my keepers and also those nicer flipped bikes where bb shell rust was present (even though it was completely cleaned out).
i've used boeshield inside the tubes of all my keepers and also those nicer flipped bikes where bb shell rust was present (even though it was completely cleaned out).
#14
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I don't know beans about the the science, but it can't do anything but good.
I use LPS 3.
Marc
I use LPS 3.
Marc
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For my keepers, I always pour a bit of linseed oil inside. I've used framesaver as well, and it's a great product.
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you could use that biodegradable "Rust Restore" stuff first to remove the rust only(it wont hurt the paint) then use frame saver. Is that frame saver like a gas tank coating?
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Since I strip down every bike anyway, applying Boeshield only takes a minute and will likely protect the inside surfaces for a very long time, given that it is unlikely to wash or wear away (as it would on a chain or other unpainted surface exposed to the elements).
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#19
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#20
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I would probably start with a OA bath and then give it a nice coat of whatever inside. I picked up a bottle linseed oil and if I used this whole bottle up treating frames I've got issues and probably one less wife. There's enough to treat quite a few frames and I bought a small container also. At least it's got quite a bit of uses...spoke prep, frame saver, ummm spoken prep. Lol. There's probably more but I'd have search the Google.
#24
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I said "sweeeet" because all those bikes you have kicks ass! I laughed because I imagined how much of a pain it would be to disassemble and Frame Saver each one would be. I call 700c wheels 700ers because I think Gary Fisher is a jackass for coining the 700c wheel a 29er, so it's an inside joke I guess. You took my remark totally the wrong way.
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I said "sweeeet" because all those bikes you have kicks ass! I laughed because I imagined how much of a pain it would be to disassemble and Frame Saver each one would be. I call 700c wheels 700ers because I think Gary Fisher is a jackass for coining the 700c wheel a 29er, so it's an inside joke I guess. You took my remark totally the wrong way.