Spring tune up for early 70s Peugot PX10E, single speed convert
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Spring tune up for early 70s Peugot PX10E, single speed convert
HI guys,
Let me start by saying I'm just dipping my toes in these waters. In the past, all work has been done by my dad or at the shop. Since pops is back in Kansas and I don't want to pay the shop to do something I have the inherited tools to do, I'm turning to the experts (MiamiJim is already a legend to me after only a couple hours poking around in here).
THE BIKE: According to my dad, who bought the bike new in the early 70s (I'm sure he'd know the exact date), a PX10E given to me as a graduation present. I rode as 10-speed during my time in Kansas, as hills in college town required. When I moved to NYC for work in my mid 20s, I had my dad convert to single speed after month subletting and riding a borrowed bike taught me that were no real elevation changes to speak of and I wanted as few distractions possible as I commuted or just tooled around in heavy traffic and pedestrians.
I know, I'm going to be scolded for these modifications. We kept the original parts. I just prefer the simplicity single speed offers when commuting or doing my usual morning joy ride in Prospect Park, though it obviously has drawbacks as well. The bike is probably my most prized possession (as a father-son hand-me-down and because I live light otherwise), but I don't have any hangups about the originality of anything but the frame, if I am being honest. Just put on new Cont Gatorskin (700 cc 25mm) and new tubes.
I'm tuning her up for spring and everything seems greased and in good condition. The one issue I'm having is with the rear brake (mafac comp). I can't seem to get the tension or angles right with the cable (or there's some hang up in the housing) and the springs don't pull the levers all the way back into position when you release the break. Previously, if I remember correctly, I'd just been manually pushing the lever back out as I rode (became automatic as soon as I was done breaking, just help it back into position). Any suggestions on solving this problem? Do I need to replace cables and housing? Do I just have angles wrong?
I'm also considering replacing original brake levers with Æro brake levers. Comfort and increased mechanical advantage. I don't see drawbacks. Thoughts? Ease of project? Likely would be a down the line thing.
Thanks in advance guys! Looking forward to learning as I familiarize myself with this bike.
Let me start by saying I'm just dipping my toes in these waters. In the past, all work has been done by my dad or at the shop. Since pops is back in Kansas and I don't want to pay the shop to do something I have the inherited tools to do, I'm turning to the experts (MiamiJim is already a legend to me after only a couple hours poking around in here).
THE BIKE: According to my dad, who bought the bike new in the early 70s (I'm sure he'd know the exact date), a PX10E given to me as a graduation present. I rode as 10-speed during my time in Kansas, as hills in college town required. When I moved to NYC for work in my mid 20s, I had my dad convert to single speed after month subletting and riding a borrowed bike taught me that were no real elevation changes to speak of and I wanted as few distractions possible as I commuted or just tooled around in heavy traffic and pedestrians.
I know, I'm going to be scolded for these modifications. We kept the original parts. I just prefer the simplicity single speed offers when commuting or doing my usual morning joy ride in Prospect Park, though it obviously has drawbacks as well. The bike is probably my most prized possession (as a father-son hand-me-down and because I live light otherwise), but I don't have any hangups about the originality of anything but the frame, if I am being honest. Just put on new Cont Gatorskin (700 cc 25mm) and new tubes.
I'm tuning her up for spring and everything seems greased and in good condition. The one issue I'm having is with the rear brake (mafac comp). I can't seem to get the tension or angles right with the cable (or there's some hang up in the housing) and the springs don't pull the levers all the way back into position when you release the break. Previously, if I remember correctly, I'd just been manually pushing the lever back out as I rode (became automatic as soon as I was done breaking, just help it back into position). Any suggestions on solving this problem? Do I need to replace cables and housing? Do I just have angles wrong?
I'm also considering replacing original brake levers with Æro brake levers. Comfort and increased mechanical advantage. I don't see drawbacks. Thoughts? Ease of project? Likely would be a down the line thing.
Thanks in advance guys! Looking forward to learning as I familiarize myself with this bike.
#2
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It looks like the entire assembly is twisted. Look at the distance between each of the two pivots and the brake bridge to which the assembly mounts. You need some anti-rotation washers to keep it from rotating during use. Then you start all adjustments from that point.
Then, center the cable hanger on the straddle cable and see if that helps.
If that doesn't do it, I would disassemble the brake, and clean and grease the pivots. If there's any roughness, you may need to lightly sand the pivots.
Decide how you want to proceed with the levers before you change the cables. To me, it doesn't look the the cables or housing are the problem. There's just some unevenness in the friction from one side to the other.
Then, center the cable hanger on the straddle cable and see if that helps.
If that doesn't do it, I would disassemble the brake, and clean and grease the pivots. If there's any roughness, you may need to lightly sand the pivots.
Decide how you want to proceed with the levers before you change the cables. To me, it doesn't look the the cables or housing are the problem. There's just some unevenness in the friction from one side to the other.
Last edited by DiegoFrogs; 05-02-15 at 02:35 AM.
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The pictures of the Peugeot are all backwards - why is that?
And, the rear brake is miserably out of line, in my opinion. DiegoFrogs has offered good advice.
And, the rear brake is miserably out of line, in my opinion. DiegoFrogs has offered good advice.
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I don't think you need anti rotation washers. None of mine have them. They don't have the tendency to twist like some side pulls do. I'll bet the brake got bumped or leaned against something. Just straighten it out and adjust the pads.
Aero brake levers work great with MAFACs and you can add interrupter levers if you like.
Aero brake levers work great with MAFACs and you can add interrupter levers if you like.
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Not only converted to single speed, but converted to crank-on-the left. Slick!
Good advice above. I'm guessing with Grand Bois. Maybe the caliper arm got slightly bent, preventing smooth movement. Also, I know it is probably because you've been messing with that rear brake, but make sure that straddle wire is fully seated into the holes in the caliper arms.
Good advice above. I'm guessing with Grand Bois. Maybe the caliper arm got slightly bent, preventing smooth movement. Also, I know it is probably because you've been messing with that rear brake, but make sure that straddle wire is fully seated into the holes in the caliper arms.
#6
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I don't think you need anti rotation washers. None of mine have them. They don't have the tendency to twist like some side pulls do. I'll bet the brake got bumped or leaned against something. Just straighten it out and adjust the pads.
Aero brake levers work great with MAFACs and you can add interrupter levers if you like.
Aero brake levers work great with MAFACs and you can add interrupter levers if you like.
Of my three bikes, I only have one with proper center-mounted centerpulls, which happen to be Paul's Racers. I'm pretty sure I stole some of the hardware from other brakes, but I've employed anti-rotation elements on both sides of both brake bridges. Rotation hasn't been a problem!
One of the nice features of centerpulls and dual-pivot sidepulls is that it decouples the tension on the bolt that holds the mounting plate from the rotation of the brake arms.
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For fixed gear (obviously not freewheel) left-side drive makes a lot of sense.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#9
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I like the aero brake handle suggestion -- it will indeed give you about 10% more braking force, at the cost, of course, of increased lever travel.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#10
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That is how to tour in style. Gorgeous bike!
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#11
Pedal to the medal
#12
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The danger with conventional right side drive fixed gear is the rear cog coming unscrewed during deceleration/braking. (This is why the lockring is so important.) With left side drive, the danger becomes loosening on acceleration only, as the cog will tighten during braking/deceleration.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#13
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Have aero levers on my 71 PX-10 and they are just fine with the Mafacs.
#14
Pedal to the medal
The danger with conventional right side drive fixed gear is the rear cog coming unscrewed during deceleration/braking. (This is why the lockring is so important.) With left side drive, the danger becomes loosening on acceleration only, as the cog will tighten during braking/deceleration.
#15
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Aren't the pedals going unthread with the cranks reversed? I thought that was the whole thing with each pedal having different threading.
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I don't think you need anti rotation washers. None of mine have them. They don't have the tendency to twist like some side pulls do. I'll bet the brake got bumped or leaned against something. Just straighten it out and adjust the pads.
Aero brake levers work great with MAFACs and you can add interrupter levers if you like.
Aero brake levers work great with MAFACs and you can add interrupter levers if you like.
#17
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but the pictures are just mirrored. The drivetrain appears to be on the conventional side of the bike. Or the OP has also mirrored all the text on the bike.
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Yes, but, since pedal cranks are always stuck anyway... 'Sides, with the bearing in the pedal, there's little chance you'd get any sort of torque on the pedal threads unless they're unrideably stuck.
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Am using Grand Compe aero levers on my '72 PX-10, and they work well with Dia-Compe 610s. So that's one additional data point.
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