What's your range of frame sizes?
#1
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What's your range of frame sizes?
I seem to get a bit obsessed with frame sizes whenever I pick up a new bike because I want to be really sure the bike fits before dumping time and money into it. I spent years convinced my 55cm Merckx was a tad too big before finally accepting it was a good fit. Part of my problem is even though I am average height (5'-8") I have long legs and a shorter torso, so on my 55cm bike I have to run a 80mm stem (hence my conviction in was a bit too big). Recently I picked up a 53cm Bianchi and now I'm convinced it is a tad too small even though I can get nearly the same setup as the 55 by using a 100mm stem. Though that stem length is often stated as being "ideal", I can't get the stem as high on the smaller frame so now I have a pretty big saddle to bar drop, though it felt fairly comfortable on test rides. I know I can get a longer extension Nitto stem, but it just looks too strange to me on a racing bike.
I think my perfect frame size is something around 55x55 or even 55x54 or 55x53 if I could ever find one. It is surprising how big a couple of centimeters difference can seem on a bike. So I was wondering whether other C&Vers had their frame size really dialed in to an exact size, or how big of a range of sizes you feel comfortable riding by making stem/seat adjustments.
I think my perfect frame size is something around 55x55 or even 55x54 or 55x53 if I could ever find one. It is surprising how big a couple of centimeters difference can seem on a bike. So I was wondering whether other C&Vers had their frame size really dialed in to an exact size, or how big of a range of sizes you feel comfortable riding by making stem/seat adjustments.
#3
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I have two Trek frames that feel great. One has a 22.5" top tube and the other has a 23.5" top tube. Both have 90mm stems but the former has brifters with those huge hoods that seemingly extend the reach a bit (?).
#4
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I'm on the same page as you with longer legs & shorter arms. End up with shorter stems & often more seatpost showing than I think is aesthetically pleasing.
When I bought my Cross Check in 2011 I'd been all over Rivendell site and believed, firmly, in their philosophy of buying the biggest bike I could ride, so bought a 52cm bike, even though the 50cm felt better. I've had a professional fitting with shorter stem, etc., but the top tube touches my body with basically no space between me & it, and I regret getting that size. Still feel a bit stretched out on it.
So, with my used bikes I've been trying different sizes & configurations.....it's definitely a process.
My Trek 930 is 16.5" and top tube length is great. I've got On One Midge bars as a drop bar conversion, however lots of seat tube & top tube is not parallel to the ground. My '88 Rockhopper is 17", also a drop bar conversion with Portola bars & nitto stem and, for a mountain bike, I wouldn't go larger.
When I bought my Cross Check in 2011 I'd been all over Rivendell site and believed, firmly, in their philosophy of buying the biggest bike I could ride, so bought a 52cm bike, even though the 50cm felt better. I've had a professional fitting with shorter stem, etc., but the top tube touches my body with basically no space between me & it, and I regret getting that size. Still feel a bit stretched out on it.
So, with my used bikes I've been trying different sizes & configurations.....it's definitely a process.
My Trek 930 is 16.5" and top tube length is great. I've got On One Midge bars as a drop bar conversion, however lots of seat tube & top tube is not parallel to the ground. My '88 Rockhopper is 17", also a drop bar conversion with Portola bars & nitto stem and, for a mountain bike, I wouldn't go larger.
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I used to ride bicycles with a 54cm seat tube, measured center to center. Then, back at the turn of the century, three guys tried to rob me, the bike endoed and I went, head first, into the ground, breaking my neck in two places. I got up (left arm dead and useless) and prepared for battle. But they bailed (thank goodness or this story might never have been told).
When I finally healed (actually, still healing fifteen years late), I found the 54 too small...
...so I went to 56+cm and it felt better...
...then, on a six month journey that is just about over now, I picked up a 60cm Marinoni and, guess what..?
...It is even more comfortable for me to ride than I would have ever expected.
The point is, different riding size range depends on many things, in my book.
How big I am, of course. How old I am (yup, this is an enormous factor in determining bike size, believe it or not and for many unavoidable reasons), what type of riding I intend for that particular ride, where I intend to ride on that particular ride...
The point is, so many things impact what will be just the right bicycle/size for any given situation, or combination of situations. This old Peugeot and even older rider spent close to 3000km together this winter past. The Pug is 56cm and, thanks to some weight loss and strength improvement, the bike fit just fine...
These day, most of my bikes are about 56cm...
I will never, again, pass on a bicycle purchase just because its size does not match the size the experts say that I should use. I am not exactly sure what this Bianchi Pro Race Team is, but I bought it anyway, while I was in Jamaica. The bike is waiting in Thunder Bay and I am looking forward to that first ride, to say the least...
When I finally healed (actually, still healing fifteen years late), I found the 54 too small...
...so I went to 56+cm and it felt better...
...then, on a six month journey that is just about over now, I picked up a 60cm Marinoni and, guess what..?
...It is even more comfortable for me to ride than I would have ever expected.
The point is, different riding size range depends on many things, in my book.
How big I am, of course. How old I am (yup, this is an enormous factor in determining bike size, believe it or not and for many unavoidable reasons), what type of riding I intend for that particular ride, where I intend to ride on that particular ride...
The point is, so many things impact what will be just the right bicycle/size for any given situation, or combination of situations. This old Peugeot and even older rider spent close to 3000km together this winter past. The Pug is 56cm and, thanks to some weight loss and strength improvement, the bike fit just fine...
These day, most of my bikes are about 56cm...
I will never, again, pass on a bicycle purchase just because its size does not match the size the experts say that I should use. I am not exactly sure what this Bianchi Pro Race Team is, but I bought it anyway, while I was in Jamaica. The bike is waiting in Thunder Bay and I am looking forward to that first ride, to say the least...
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#8
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My ideal size is a 58-61 seat tube, with a 57-58 tt. I've got a 23" Super Sport with a 100mm that fits like a glove; and a 22.5"(so what is that, a 57?) Trek 560 that with a Technomic Deluxe 110mm stem now fits almost identical to the Schwinn. I've got an odd built: 6' with a 35" inseam, so long-legged, but with a short torso; so while I've ridden a 64, and it was comfortable enough without showing 6" of seatpost (like I do on the Schwinn and Trek), I prefer a slightly smaller frame.
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I can easily ride 19, 21 or 23" as long as that top tube isnt way out there. My body craves crit styling and wont tolerate something stretched out.
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I like a 56.
But I've found that when I use 42cm wide handlebars a 55 bike can be comfortable. Unsurprisingly... a 57 with 44cm bars feels huge (although very rideable). I think sometimes people forget how much bar width affects the feeling of being stretched.
But I've found that when I use 42cm wide handlebars a 55 bike can be comfortable. Unsurprisingly... a 57 with 44cm bars feels huge (although very rideable). I think sometimes people forget how much bar width affects the feeling of being stretched.
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I think my perfect frame size is something around 55x55 or even 55x54 or 55x53 if I could ever find one. It is surprising how big a couple of centimeters difference can seem on a bike. So I was wondering whether other C&Vers had their frame size really dialed in to an exact size, or how big of a range of sizes you feel comfortable riding by making stem/seat adjustments.
It will be difficult to find a larger frame with a short top tube. A Gios from the 80's, some of the English super short wheelbase bikes from the 70's on, and a few other Italian brands from the middle 80's might get you there.
I agree a 100-110 length stem provides a good feel, but this has to be tempered a bit, many bars do not have the same throw forward, I have one bike with one of the shorter stems of the group and the bars project much farther than say the typical Cinelli offering. At the brake hoods the position is the same, on the tops, this bike is shorter, as climbing on the tops is typical, a bit better position for that.
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56-58 ctc seat tube
57-59 ctc top tube
Ideal is 57/58 but a change in the stem or seat post can be accomodating.
I do prefer the BB to be more forward, but I am no princess and will ride anything.
57-59 ctc top tube
Ideal is 57/58 but a change in the stem or seat post can be accomodating.
I do prefer the BB to be more forward, but I am no princess and will ride anything.
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Hmm, that's encouraging that most people seem to have at least a 2cm range in frame sizes. I'm not a big bike flipper but I do probably have around 8 bikes a year go through my hands and they've ranged in size from 52cm to 57cm. I can do a 20 mile ride on nearly anything in that range, but when it comes to a keeper, something I'm planning on doing 100 mile rides on, then I get pickier.
Randyjawa, my 53cm Bianchi looks a lot like your 54cm bike as far as seat and handlebar setup. It is, I think, the smallest I can go without having too much seat post showing and the stem too low. I think that may end up becoming my "go fast" bike when I'm looking to knock out a fast 20-30 mile ride after work. My 55cm Merckx with the higher stem has shown to be quite comfortable for all day rides. The tough thing with the smaller frame has been getting the bar angle and lever setup dialed in. A setup that is comfortable on the hoods has proven to be difficult to brake from in the drops- the levers end up too high up and out. I'll keep playing with it, maybe a different bar will help.
Randyjawa, my 53cm Bianchi looks a lot like your 54cm bike as far as seat and handlebar setup. It is, I think, the smallest I can go without having too much seat post showing and the stem too low. I think that may end up becoming my "go fast" bike when I'm looking to knock out a fast 20-30 mile ride after work. My 55cm Merckx with the higher stem has shown to be quite comfortable for all day rides. The tough thing with the smaller frame has been getting the bar angle and lever setup dialed in. A setup that is comfortable on the hoods has proven to be difficult to brake from in the drops- the levers end up too high up and out. I'll keep playing with it, maybe a different bar will help.
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56 is my preference, but I can ride as small as 52 with the right stem and proper saddle adjustments.
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My favorite bikes - for riding anyway - are all in the 62 to 64 centimeter range (C-T). Beyond that seat posts begin to look awkwardly short or long. Most seem to have 57 to 58 centimeter (C-C) top tubes.
This is one of them, a 62, just to have a picture:
This is one of them, a 62, just to have a picture:
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I can generally comfortably fit any bike from 53-56 cm with typical adjustments at the seat/seat-post and stem. I'm 5'8 with a 31 inch inseam. I prefer the longer end of my size range, because I find that the shorter frames put me in a less aerodynamic, more upright riding position. The 4 bikes I mainly ride are all 55 or 56 size at the seat tube, center of bb to top of top tube.
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OP mentions picking up a new bike. If regarding a new custom (and not compact frame geo), no doubt would want near exact fitment.
But for for old bikes, 56cm tt is my preferred but not picky nor stuck on it. I can make 2 cm + / - in frame size work. That's why they make different stems, post and bar width. And the heck with aestetics, I want to ride it and if one is concerned about that, just temporary change it for show or photo op's. No biggie.
Kind of funny topic though. In the 1970's bike boon, fairly common that bike shops pushed whatever size bikes in stock with not much concern of a buyers height or fit. When I acquired my Fuji, the dealer was pushing much too large of a frame even though my plans were for distance touring. I ended buying a like new prior model year trade in for nearly the same amount as a brand new same model. Didn't have much of choice as they were a hot commodity.
Indeed.
By changing the width of a bar, it feels like a different bike and size.
I enjoy riding back woods trails, single track and gravel grinding on a road bike. I get it that the majority would prefer to be on a 29er and bust the route but for me a 700c X wide width tire, drop bar is fine. Almost cyclo-cross like.
Though I do like width in a more technical, rough terrain. I don't think it really changes in how the bike handles or weight distribution but the little extra leverage gives me a secure feeling. Lately, I've been playing with an early 70's LeChampion with a narrow bar but I custom flared the drop portion only. Not quite a Midge version or a rando bend. Nice and comfy for the wrist, (especially after a motocross incident from many years ago and an ache reminder). Can get down and dirty on the fast gravel yet keep the mass low while torqueing up in the ruts.
So now with the flared bar, I'm considering using a slight shorter stem. Surely is less aero but I'm not racing or against the clock.
But for for old bikes, 56cm tt is my preferred but not picky nor stuck on it. I can make 2 cm + / - in frame size work. That's why they make different stems, post and bar width. And the heck with aestetics, I want to ride it and if one is concerned about that, just temporary change it for show or photo op's. No biggie.
Kind of funny topic though. In the 1970's bike boon, fairly common that bike shops pushed whatever size bikes in stock with not much concern of a buyers height or fit. When I acquired my Fuji, the dealer was pushing much too large of a frame even though my plans were for distance touring. I ended buying a like new prior model year trade in for nearly the same amount as a brand new same model. Didn't have much of choice as they were a hot commodity.
By changing the width of a bar, it feels like a different bike and size.
I enjoy riding back woods trails, single track and gravel grinding on a road bike. I get it that the majority would prefer to be on a 29er and bust the route but for me a 700c X wide width tire, drop bar is fine. Almost cyclo-cross like.
Though I do like width in a more technical, rough terrain. I don't think it really changes in how the bike handles or weight distribution but the little extra leverage gives me a secure feeling. Lately, I've been playing with an early 70's LeChampion with a narrow bar but I custom flared the drop portion only. Not quite a Midge version or a rando bend. Nice and comfy for the wrist, (especially after a motocross incident from many years ago and an ache reminder). Can get down and dirty on the fast gravel yet keep the mass low while torqueing up in the ruts.
So now with the flared bar, I'm considering using a slight shorter stem. Surely is less aero but I'm not racing or against the clock.
Last edited by crank_addict; 05-02-15 at 11:16 AM.
#19
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I usually look for 56cm square (st & tt ctc) but have been happy on road bikes anywhere from a 53-60 seattube depending upon the top tube and stem and bars as long as the top tube is reasonable.
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I usually ride a 54 cm frame, but I've had a 56 fit great and a 52 fit ok. For the longest time, I only rode 52 cm frames because that's what I'd been told fit, but I've started feeling more comfortable on larger frames. Actually, I just finished a 54cm Schwinn Peloton and ended up setting it up with a higher seatpost and more aggressive fit than any of my other bikes, it naturally feels more comfortable that way. I do wish I had learned I had a range of sizes before, I've passed on so many cheap or almost free bikes because I thought they would never possibly fit.
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My smallest is 58 ctt, the largest 62cm. Most are 60 - 61. Top tube about 58 - 58.5 with an 80 - 120mm stem. I'm shrinking back to 6' and have a long torso. I hate feeling scrunched up along the top tube.
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I ride anything from a 49cm with alot of seat post showing to a 56cm with a slammed seat post. Preferred size is 51-52cm but I'm not too picky if the price is decent.
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I ride frames that are too big for me, because I like having the bars up high. My back isnt that flexible.
So, 5'10", and I ride 56-58. Typical bikes I like either came in 21 or 23. The 21 is too small, so ive learned to make the 23's fit.
So, 5'10", and I ride 56-58. Typical bikes I like either came in 21 or 23. The 21 is too small, so ive learned to make the 23's fit.
#24
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I built this frame back in the mid 70s but didn't finish it until 1992. It's 55cm x 53cm with a 75° seat tube.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/282672...7625001925668/
I have a very long torso with a short bull neck and short thighs. I wear glasses and like to look through them instead of over the top. A short stem and top tube with a steeper seat tube angle gives me a more upright riding position which makes it easy on my neck too. 80mm is the longest stem I feel comfortable riding.
Some of my bikes with short stems:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/282672...7626832237811/
Several of my 57cm bikes are really nice riders but I have 70cm stems on them because of the long top tubes.
I was 30 years old when I started to do a little racing. I read the Italian C.O.N.I Cycling bible cover to cover before I realized that it was written for aspiring adolescent Olympic hopefuls and that I was way to old to contort my body into those ballerina positions they recommended.
I ride what's most comfortable for me!
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Last edited by verktyg; 05-06-15 at 01:21 AM.