Vintage MTB - Which One Would You Keep & Why?
#1
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Vintage MTB - Which One Would You Keep & Why?
I have an all original '88 Specislized Rockhopper that is 17". It's the white fade to blue and the paint is about 5/10. I took off the very long Specialized flat bars & put on a Nitto Dirt Drop stem with Soma Portola (love these) dirt drop bars along with bar end shifters. Drive train is Shimano MT60 gruppo, with 6 speed Uniglide rear freewheel, under chain stay U-brake. It's not lugged, and is Chromoly double butted accd. To the MOMBATsite.
I have a '90 Trek 930 that is 16.5" (more seatpost showing ). It is black, lugged and paint is 8.5/10. All original Suntour X-1 gruppo. It, too is a drop bar conversion with SR black dirt drop style stem and On One "Midge" bars (I don't like these & will likely sell - 25.4 clamp). It's a 7 speed freewheel Suntour. I have the black SunTour BarCons that hav index & "soft index" but can't get them to work consistently with this setup, so now have SunTour ratchet bar ends for friction. This bike's tubing is TrueTemper AT double butted ATB. (Lugs are really nice).
They both fit well, although top tube on Trek is a little shorter which, is a little better for me. The Trek's top tube slopes down more because of the small size. The Rockhopper's top tube is more horizontal.
Anyway, if you had to choose only one, which would it be & why?
I have a '90 Trek 930 that is 16.5" (more seatpost showing ). It is black, lugged and paint is 8.5/10. All original Suntour X-1 gruppo. It, too is a drop bar conversion with SR black dirt drop style stem and On One "Midge" bars (I don't like these & will likely sell - 25.4 clamp). It's a 7 speed freewheel Suntour. I have the black SunTour BarCons that hav index & "soft index" but can't get them to work consistently with this setup, so now have SunTour ratchet bar ends for friction. This bike's tubing is TrueTemper AT double butted ATB. (Lugs are really nice).
They both fit well, although top tube on Trek is a little shorter which, is a little better for me. The Trek's top tube slopes down more because of the small size. The Rockhopper's top tube is more horizontal.
Anyway, if you had to choose only one, which would it be & why?
#2
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Personally I would keep the Trek mainly because I'm fond of lugged frames. Otherwise it sounds like the finish and maybe components are better on the 930 also. Also I'd rather have a canti in the back than the chain stay U brake. Pictures??
BTW: If you are going to sell the Midge bars there was a thread not too long ago with someone trying dearly to find one so you may want to post in the for sale thread. I have a one or I'd be asking :-)
BTW: If you are going to sell the Midge bars there was a thread not too long ago with someone trying dearly to find one so you may want to post in the for sale thread. I have a one or I'd be asking :-)
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My vote's for the Trek. Better paint, better tubing, and lugged.
Put the parts off your Rockhopper you like on it more (Nitto Dirt Drop + Soma Portola), or even the whole group if you like it more. For resale, I doubt it is more than $20-30 dollar difference to potential buyers which of those 2 groups are on it (neither to my knowledge is highly sought after.)
Does either have more braze-ons or clearance that make it more versatile in the future? This is why I'll be hard pressed to ever part with my High Sierra -- braze ons and clearance galore.
Put the parts off your Rockhopper you like on it more (Nitto Dirt Drop + Soma Portola), or even the whole group if you like it more. For resale, I doubt it is more than $20-30 dollar difference to potential buyers which of those 2 groups are on it (neither to my knowledge is highly sought after.)
Does either have more braze-ons or clearance that make it more versatile in the future? This is why I'll be hard pressed to ever part with my High Sierra -- braze ons and clearance galore.
#4
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My Trek 94/95? Trek-930.
Reason:no suspension, which I LIKE. It may be heavy, but it's light
Welded True Temper frame — you cannot bend it. It is indestructible.
Some of my record A to B times have been set on this bike — beating my road racing machines. (Well, I was younger — sigh).
Emotionally attached — the only new bike I have ever bought except for a Swedish Crescent that was a really a boat anchor.
It fits me exactly.
The best street fighter in traffic jams ever made for cycling — it is just so stable and in control with cut down bars to squeeze between murderous cagers.
Reason:no suspension, which I LIKE. It may be heavy, but it's light
Welded True Temper frame — you cannot bend it. It is indestructible.
Some of my record A to B times have been set on this bike — beating my road racing machines. (Well, I was younger — sigh).
Emotionally attached — the only new bike I have ever bought except for a Swedish Crescent that was a really a boat anchor.
It fits me exactly.
The best street fighter in traffic jams ever made for cycling — it is just so stable and in control with cut down bars to squeeze between murderous cagers.
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#5
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My vote is for the TREK. I've got a RockHopper and made the same changes you did.
I'd rather have the Made in the USA lugged TRUE TEMPER frame - even with a bit more seatpost showing. I'd also like a shorter top tube - which has me thinking about a new bike to replace the RockHopper....
I'd rather have the Made in the USA lugged TRUE TEMPER frame - even with a bit more seatpost showing. I'd also like a shorter top tube - which has me thinking about a new bike to replace the RockHopper....
#6
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Thread Starter
Here are some photos.
'88 Rockhopper Comp by velocivixen, on '90 Lugged Trek 930 by velocivixen, on Flickr
If I kept the Trek, I have some early 1990's Shimano derailleurs (RD-M735 rear & same model for front, M732 canti brakes in Silver & lots of vertical adjustment). Both will have a brooks. I don't like all the black on the Trek. I also have a Shimano FC-B124 triple crankset in silver I'd mount. See Here: VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano FC-B124, Biopace Touring Triple
I have a 1992 Hard Rock Ultra that I think is too big, so that's gonna go most likely. I spent $ buying upgraded components on auction site (the Shimano M735 stuff), so I'd remove those from the Hard Rock & put on the Trek if I kept it. I just don't need 3 MTB's, especially most of my riding is on pavement or very light trails.
'88 Rockhopper Comp by velocivixen, on '90 Lugged Trek 930 by velocivixen, on Flickr
If I kept the Trek, I have some early 1990's Shimano derailleurs (RD-M735 rear & same model for front, M732 canti brakes in Silver & lots of vertical adjustment). Both will have a brooks. I don't like all the black on the Trek. I also have a Shimano FC-B124 triple crankset in silver I'd mount. See Here: VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano FC-B124, Biopace Touring Triple
I have a 1992 Hard Rock Ultra that I think is too big, so that's gonna go most likely. I spent $ buying upgraded components on auction site (the Shimano M735 stuff), so I'd remove those from the Hard Rock & put on the Trek if I kept it. I just don't need 3 MTB's, especially most of my riding is on pavement or very light trails.
Last edited by Velocivixen; 05-05-15 at 11:36 AM. Reason: added.
#7
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As much as I prefer lugged steel, the Trek sure looks small for you. If you are satisfied with the fit, then I'd keep the Trek and use your replacement parts to upgrade the drive train. The good news is all of your Suntour parts have really good value.
I just put a Shimano drivetrain on a small Schwinn Crosscut (hybrid). To hold costs down, I used 7 speed push button Shimano tourney shifter set, $15 with all cables and housings. Shifter cabling is a little crowded, but that is what happens when you put flat bar shifters on to drops. My wife likes the Shimano push button set up, has it on other bikes. Otherwise, I would have put bar ends on it.
Hoping this works for my wife, if not, it will head to the local market.
Drug it out of a local DKO flipper's scrap pile. Amazing what he keeps and what he tosses.
I just put a Shimano drivetrain on a small Schwinn Crosscut (hybrid). To hold costs down, I used 7 speed push button Shimano tourney shifter set, $15 with all cables and housings. Shifter cabling is a little crowded, but that is what happens when you put flat bar shifters on to drops. My wife likes the Shimano push button set up, has it on other bikes. Otherwise, I would have put bar ends on it.
Hoping this works for my wife, if not, it will head to the local market.
Drug it out of a local DKO flipper's scrap pile. Amazing what he keeps and what he tosses.
Last edited by wrk101; 05-05-15 at 11:38 AM.
#8
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Thread Starter
As much as I prefer lugged steel, the Trek sure looks small for you. If you are satisfied with the fit, then I'd keep the Trek and use your replacement parts to upgrade the drive train. The good news is all of your Suntour parts have really good value.
I just put a Shimano drivetrain on a small Schwinn Crosscut (hybrid). To hold costs down, I used 7 speed push button Shimano tourney shifter set, $15 with all cables and housings. Shifter cabling is a little crowded, but that is what happens when you put flat bar shifters on to drops. My wife likes the Shimano push button set up, has it on other bikes. Otherwise, I would have put bar ends on it.
Hoping this works for my wife, if not, it will head to the local market.
I just put a Shimano drivetrain on a small Schwinn Crosscut (hybrid). To hold costs down, I used 7 speed push button Shimano tourney shifter set, $15 with all cables and housings. Shifter cabling is a little crowded, but that is what happens when you put flat bar shifters on to drops. My wife likes the Shimano push button set up, has it on other bikes. Otherwise, I would have put bar ends on it.
Hoping this works for my wife, if not, it will head to the local market.
#9
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Which do you ride more, and why? I'm a little skeptical of SunTour drivetrains of this era, and are you saying it works a little wonky? That could be a criterion.
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I like the Trek. I used to have one exactly like it. The Imron paint is amazing. My daughter's Trek MTB is fun to ride and inexplicably fast with slicks. I have some experience with the Suntour X-1 group. I'd definitely replace it with Shimano.
I also don't like calling Japanese components a gruppo, but that's just me.
I also don't like calling Japanese components a gruppo, but that's just me.
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Another vote for the Trek 930. That all-black looks like it means business
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The Trek is a better frame by far. I would keep the trek and consider swapping in a shimano rear hub with hyperglide cassette, and possibly also a shimano RD with a "centeron" pulley to improve shifting.
Suntour Accushift is a little funky, when you shift you need to put a little extra pressure on the shifter lever until the gear fully changes.
Suntour Accushift is a little funky, when you shift you need to put a little extra pressure on the shifter lever until the gear fully changes.
#15
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I like the earlier suggestion - take the frame that fits better, build it with all the parts you like better, and sell what's left.
#16
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Thread Starter
@noglider & frantik - yes the Suntour X-1 is a little tricky. I does seem to shift a little better with the "rapid fire" type under bar shifters it came with vs the Bar Cons, but Shimano is spot on. So I really haven't ridden the Trek 930 much due to being unhappy with the drive train. That's why I think I will use some Shimano M735 (early '90's) components on the 930 then ride it to see if I like it better.
@Grand Bois - I always thought that when you refer to a branded "group" that came out to compliment each other (like Suntour X-1 or whatever) it was called a "Gruppo". Is that commonly applied to road/race bikes? Like, for example, Ultegra or Dura Ace, etc.? If so, then apologies. Good to know so I can use appropriate lingo.
@frantik - could you explain a little more what era would Shimano have made "centuron" pulley? I did a quick search & couldn't find what it referred to, but I'll do a more in depth search. Would my Shimano RD-M735 Deore XT rear derailleur be considered "centuron"?
Thanks you guys. I really appreciate it.
NOW....to throw another variable in. I have some 2011 Shimano Deore hubs. Rear is for a 9 speed cassette with 135 OLD. The Trek 930 rear dropouts are 135. The current trek stock wheel for the 930 is a 7 speed FREEWHEEL. I could use my new 2011 Deore hubs and make the bike a 9 speed, or if I didn't want to have to get a narrower chain, etd. could use a spacer & make it an 8 speed and could use a cassette. If I use the current wheel I'd have to keep it a freewheel. Thoughts?
I have really been agonizing over this. I've bought these bikes as "good deals" and have fixed them up and ridden them, and as I learn what I prefer in regard to style & especially size, I have sold off the others. So Thanks again for all of your ideas. Only other "bike people" will understand this.
@Grand Bois - I always thought that when you refer to a branded "group" that came out to compliment each other (like Suntour X-1 or whatever) it was called a "Gruppo". Is that commonly applied to road/race bikes? Like, for example, Ultegra or Dura Ace, etc.? If so, then apologies. Good to know so I can use appropriate lingo.
@frantik - could you explain a little more what era would Shimano have made "centuron" pulley? I did a quick search & couldn't find what it referred to, but I'll do a more in depth search. Would my Shimano RD-M735 Deore XT rear derailleur be considered "centuron"?
Thanks you guys. I really appreciate it.
NOW....to throw another variable in. I have some 2011 Shimano Deore hubs. Rear is for a 9 speed cassette with 135 OLD. The Trek 930 rear dropouts are 135. The current trek stock wheel for the 930 is a 7 speed FREEWHEEL. I could use my new 2011 Deore hubs and make the bike a 9 speed, or if I didn't want to have to get a narrower chain, etd. could use a spacer & make it an 8 speed and could use a cassette. If I use the current wheel I'd have to keep it a freewheel. Thoughts?
I have really been agonizing over this. I've bought these bikes as "good deals" and have fixed them up and ridden them, and as I learn what I prefer in regard to style & especially size, I have sold off the others. So Thanks again for all of your ideas. Only other "bike people" will understand this.
#18
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It just doesn't seem appropriate to refer to Japanese products with an Italian term. Like I said, that's just me.
I believe that Centeron pulleys have Centeron printed on them.
A,94/'95 Trek with a freewheel?
I believe that Centeron pulleys have Centeron printed on them.
A,94/'95 Trek with a freewheel?
Last edited by Grand Bois; 05-05-15 at 03:18 PM.
#19
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The Trek, and get it a black seatpost already! I told you before, it's begging for it
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#20
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I believe the Japanese word for group is グループ. Check with Big Wood for his approval.
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@frantik - could you explain a little more what era would Shimano have made "centuron" pulley? I did a quick search & couldn't find what it referred to, but I'll do a more in depth search. Would my Shimano RD-M735 Deore XT rear derailleur be considered "centuron"?
the centeron type is on the left in this pic
#22
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Just have a nice day bashing up the two frames/components and sell of what you don't need. Half the fun is building and fussing anyway.
#23
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OK, point taken about the term "Gruppo". I learned something new today. Thanks.
@Italuminium - yes, you are correct! I'll let you know how it all plays out. I'll save everything & just ride. I can always change things around. I just don't want 3 MTB's. I'd rather have one I really like & let the others go.
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I like the black on black of the trek but the shimano DT is superior. I'd keep the trek and put the shimano DT on it and the suntour on the spesh and sell that.
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