Rear wheel keeps walking forward in dropout
05-21-15, 07:35 PM
#26
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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Shoota, I think someone might have mentioned keeping the surfaces clean but maybe I misoverimagined it.
I'm with the camp that the axle stuck out too far on at least the side where removing the spring made the difference. The spring is a spiral helix (or a helical spiral, if you prefer). It flattens into a spiral but requires some space, I'd guess about 1mm, the width of the flat wire from which it was made. That's the depth of the acorn's inner surface below the edge of the contact rim. That space is there to accommodate the spring. If the axle protrudes too far from the DO so that the space between the inside surface of the skewer acorn and the end of the axle is less than that then tightening the skewer simply clamps the inner surface hard on the spring instead of clamping the outer edge of the acorn onto the DO.
Chapel, your pic shows a forge DO with integrated RD hanger. From what bike did you get the wheel? If it had a claw RD hanger than the axle would have been skewed to the right w.r.t. the hub. I've seen this happen before.
The proper solution is to reposition the bearing cones so that the axle shifts slightly further left.
Unless your axle is just too long, in which case you need a spacer.
I'm with the camp that the axle stuck out too far on at least the side where removing the spring made the difference. The spring is a spiral helix (or a helical spiral, if you prefer). It flattens into a spiral but requires some space, I'd guess about 1mm, the width of the flat wire from which it was made. That's the depth of the acorn's inner surface below the edge of the contact rim. That space is there to accommodate the spring. If the axle protrudes too far from the DO so that the space between the inside surface of the skewer acorn and the end of the axle is less than that then tightening the skewer simply clamps the inner surface hard on the spring instead of clamping the outer edge of the acorn onto the DO.
Chapel, your pic shows a forge DO with integrated RD hanger. From what bike did you get the wheel? If it had a claw RD hanger than the axle would have been skewed to the right w.r.t. the hub. I've seen this happen before.
The proper solution is to reposition the bearing cones so that the axle shifts slightly further left.
Unless your axle is just too long, in which case you need a spacer.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
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05-21-15, 08:22 PM
#27
Bike Butcher of Portland
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First, check the DO alignment. Second, check the alignment of the DOs. Third, make sure your DOs are aligned. Depending on how good or bad it was originally, those extra 4mm could have made it worse enough to matter.
Fourth check that your axle is positioned okay in the hub so that it doesn't stick out too far to one side. If it was originally set up for a bike with a claw for the RD and you are putting it on a bike with forged DO and an integrated hanger, it may be too long on the DS.
Fifth, make sure your skewer isn't badly bent.
Fourth check that your axle is positioned okay in the hub so that it doesn't stick out too far to one side. If it was originally set up for a bike with a claw for the RD and you are putting it on a bike with forged DO and an integrated hanger, it may be too long on the DS.
Fifth, make sure your skewer isn't badly bent.
If you're spreading a 126 to fit a 130, the dropouts aren't parallel. Now some % of the force of your quick release is used to make them parallel. If they're parallel, all that force translates to friction on the hub.
I'm assuming your frame is steel, based on the 126mm spacing? If so, any competent LBS should be able to do the job.
05-22-15, 06:19 AM
#28
What's this lever do?
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Chapel, your pic shows a forge DO with integrated RD hanger. From what bike did you get the wheel? If it had a claw RD hanger than the axle would have been skewed to the right w.r.t. the hub. I've seen this happen before.
The proper solution is to reposition the bearing cones so that the axle shifts slightly further left.
Unless your axle is just too long, in which case you need a spacer.
The proper solution is to reposition the bearing cones so that the axle shifts slightly further left.
Unless your axle is just too long, in which case you need a spacer.
Even if it is too long, it isn't now with the Hurdy Gurdy installed.
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