Aside from wheelset, how much weight can I shave off a steel frame 1980 Miyata 310?
I figure a new wheelset could save me 2 lbs or a bit more. Right now the bike weighs 25.8 lbs. How much else would I need to do to get it close to 20 lbs? Weight isn't a huge issue for me, but i'd like to know where the next best weight savings could be. Carbon handlebars? Carbon crankset? Any help is appreciated, thanks.
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If you are starting off with a heavy frame you will have a hard time getting down to 20 lbs. I would start with a race frame.
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ok, do you know about where a 70s/80s race bike should weigh in when all original?
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Yup, lighter frame, easily found. But what you have is nice, too, though not particularly light. Go ahead and get the nicest wheel set you can afford; it'll improve your current bike and any other future bike you care to put it on.
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sounds like a plan
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In the early to mid 80's, a "respectable" weight for a race bike is around 22/23 pounds. I think, if you add about a pound or two, it will bring you back to the 70's....
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Rear axle spacing may not match modern hubs.
Best way to take a lot of weight off an old bike is to get a new bike. Best way to get a good bike is to get an old bike. Unless it was a cheap build, chances are compatible contemporary parts won't add up to much savings. If it was a cheap build, anything will help. |
ok, do you know about where a 70s/80s race bike should weigh in when all original? http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpe...ull_Side_1.jpg |
I believe a 310 is made for the haul, not the haul ass.
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After the wheels the weight saving comes in very small increments. For example, going from a set of Suntour Superb pedals with toe clips and straps to my Time Impact clip less pedals saved me only 4 ounces. Depending on what saddle you have, you may be able to pick up a few ounces going with a lighter saddle. Going with more expensive light weight tires and tubes can add a couple ounces.
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Originally Posted by Chombi
(Post 17827182)
In the early to mid 80's, a "respectable" weight for a race bike is around 22/23 pounds. I think, if you add about a pound or two, it will bring you back to the 70's....
That said, the rest of the weight is in the components - mostly the wheels/tires. Tire choice alone can add a pound of rotating weight each!!! I had picked up a Miyata-built Univega a couple of years ago that is spec'd pretty close to a Miyata 710 of the same year. I have carefully selected some component upgrades and shaved another pound off (biggest weight loss was pedals(!) ) when I switched to the Velo Orange lightweight all-aluminum road pedals. While I'm hoping for an all-up weight of 23 pounds, I just got a digital hanging scale so I'll be able to give an accurate total bike wight soon... |
Some catalog weights are misleading in that the listed weight may be without the saddle and pedals.
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25-26 pounds is a respectable weight for a steel bike. The bike is no lightweight but it's still a quality bike.
I think trying to shave weight of this bike is a bit of a fool's errand. You can't get it down to 20 pounds. Buying a bunch of carbon bits strikes me as completely unnecessary. A lightweight wheelset may save some money but can also make the bike less durable. I'd focus on getting the bike working right and taking sensible measures to shave some weight if needed. If you really want a sub 20 pound bike, go buy a sub 20 pound bike. |
Originally Posted by OldManJones
(Post 17827139)
I figure a new wheelset could save me 2 lbs or a bit more. Right now the bike weighs 25.8 lbs. How much else would I need to do to get it close to 20 lbs? Weight isn't a huge issue for me, but i'd like to know where the next best weight savings could be. Carbon handlebars? Carbon crankset? Any help is appreciated, thanks.
My guess is that your Miyata frame/fork weighs no more than 6 lbs. So sure, you could probably turn it into a 20 lb bike if you spent enough money on high-end components but that would be a waste of money for this bike. My early 80s Trek 600-series weighs about 26 lbs (including an aluminum rack). Its got a hodge-podge of modern Shimano Sora components. My 1982 Trek 950 is mostly Super Record and weighs about 21 lbs, which was within a half pound of my (SOLD) 2011 Cannondale Carbon Fiber bike. That's with pretty lightweight Fiamme tubular rims. |
This is likely just something I've convinced myself of, but it seems if I get a vintage bike down to 23 lbs or less, it feels like it has a lot more zip than over that weight, particularly for climbing. That said, as has been noted, a 310 was meant to be a tourer and is likely stout to begin with.
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I gather that depending on what crank and bottom bracket are on it, a decent modern crank and BB could knock 100-200 grams off.
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Originally Posted by Steve Whitlatch
(Post 17827540)
Some catalog weights are misleading in that the listed weight may be without the saddle and pedals.
Yes, many 'high end' bikes are sold without pedals/saddles - especially in more modern times. |
I was not singling any catalog out by my statement. Just making the op aware of the issue. I have come across this with several bikes, all original to the catalog. The actual weight wad about the weight of the saddle and pedals over catalog weight. I have never weighed a Miyata though.
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My first experience with this was with my 1986 schwinn prelude. After reading here about actual weights vs real weight, I weighed my supposed to be 24 lbs bike. Turned out out weighed 25.8 lbs. After changing the wheels to 700c, new saddle, pedals and removing the kick stand, I got her down to 24. 4 or something like that.
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On some of those Japanese bikes, even some pretty nice ones, check that a strong magnet isn't attracted to the handlebar or chainrings.
Even my very nice Nishiki Seral tourer has a steel handlebar weighing ~3/4lb more than alloy, but having a center sleeve that conceals the actual steel bar. Heavy bikes are typically heavy throughout! |
Originally Posted by bikemig
(Post 17827545)
25-26 pounds is a respectable weight for a steel bike. The bike is no lightweight but it's still a quality bike.
I think trying to shave weight of this bike is a bit of a fool's errand. You can't get it down to 20 pounds. Buying a bunch of carbon bits strikes me as completely unnecessary. A lightweight wheelset may save some money but can also make the bike less durable. I'd focus on getting the bike working right and taking sensible measures to shave some weight if needed. If you really want a sub 20 pound bike, go buy a sub 20 pound bike. And, cease consumption of simple sugars, refined grains, processed meats, processed anything, alcohol and most dairy. You'll lose a lot a more weight and have more energy. it's hard but the benefits are amazing. I am down to race weight in about a month, without having changed my exercise regime. I am only doing it temporarily and I won't do into details but I will keep some of these new eating habits and my digestive health and general well being have improved, not to mention I have dropped probably 5-10 pounds. All my bikes go faster when I am lighter. |
Tires. If you are running 700c rims, go for the lightest tire you can stand. It's amazing what a lighter set of folding bead tires makes in weight difference. Anything steel/chrome needs to be swapped out for alloy. Seat, you can save on this as well.
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Thank you for the replies. I could shave a few lbs off my 6'2'' 180 frame as well. I'm able to do what I want on the respectable but built for touring 310, so maybe the answer is do nothing and enjoy until I find a 912 or other racing frame.
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Best way to save weight on a 310 would be to ditch it and buy something better/lighter to start with (as others have already said). Anything else would just be throwing good money after bad.
SP OC, OR |
Originally Posted by OldManJones
(Post 17830126)
Thank you for the replies. I could shave a few lbs off my 6'2'' 180 frame as well. I'm able to do what I want on the respectable but built for touring 310, so maybe the answer is do nothing and enjoy until I find a 912 or other racing frame.
Wheels, yessir, if your 310 has stock wheels, you would do well to buy a good set, but don't worry about the weight too much. Many are finding out what Jan Heine has been preaching for some time now: fatter, supple tires are the easiest way to make your bike a bit faster. |
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