OldManJones

I figure a new wheelset could save me 2 lbs or a bit more. Right now the bike weighs 25.8 lbs. How much else would I need to do to get it close to 20 lbs? Weight isn't a huge issue for me, but i'd like to know where the next best weight savings could be. Carbon handlebars? Carbon crankset? Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Steve Whitlatch 

If you are starting off with a heavy frame you will have a hard time getting down to 20 lbs. I would start with a race frame.

OldManJones

ok, do you know about where a 70s/80s race bike should weigh in when all original?

Lascauxcaveman 

Yup, lighter frame, easily found. But what you have is nice, too, though not particularly light. Go ahead and get the nicest wheel set you can afford; it'll improve your current bike and any other future bike you care to put it on.

OldManJones

sounds like a plan

Chombi

In the early to mid 80's, a "respectable" weight for a race bike is around 22/23 pounds. I think, if you add about a pound or two, it will bring you back to the 70's....

catgita

Rear axle spacing may not match modern hubs.
Best way to take a lot of weight off an old bike is to get a new bike.
Best way to get a good bike is to get an old bike.
Unless it was a cheap build, chances are compatible contemporary parts won't add up to much savings. If it was a cheap build, anything will help.

randyjawa 

Actual Vintage Bicycle Weights. I have weighed each of these bicycle, myself, making no attempt to lower weights. Believe me, to get a vintage bicycle close to 20lb is a trick, under twenty is a really good trick. In the hundreds of vintage road bicycles I have owned, only one or two came in under twenty pounds - and they were lugged aluminum...

RobbieTunes

I believe a 310 is made for the haul, not the haul ass.

Steve Whitlatch 

After the wheels the weight saving comes in very small increments. For example, going from a set of Suntour Superb pedals with toe clips and straps to my Time Impact clip less pedals saved me only 4 ounces. Depending on what saddle you have, you may be able to pick up a few ounces going with a lighter saddle. Going with more expensive light weight tires and tubes can add a couple ounces.

Cougrrcj

The weight difference between a high-end butted CrMo steel frame/fork and a 1024 'gas pipe' straight wall tubing bike is only a couple of pounds at best. My old '75 Fuji S-10S with straightwall tubing is only 26.1 pounds. Catalog page here . Even in the mid '80s, the Miyata 'professional racing series' bikes weighed in at 21-23 pounds and the 'semi-pro' series 310, 710 or 912 weighed around 24-25.5 pounds with double-butted CrMo tubing. 1984 Miyata catalog here.

That said, the rest of the weight is in the components - mostly the wheels/tires. Tire choice alone can add a pound of rotating weight each!!!

I had picked up a Miyata-built Univega a couple of years ago that is spec'd pretty close to a Miyata 710 of the same year. I have carefully selected some component upgrades and shaved another pound off (biggest weight loss was pedals(!) ) when I switched to the Velo Orange lightweight all-aluminum road pedals. While I'm hoping for an all-up weight of 23 pounds, I just got a digital hanging scale so I'll be able to give an accurate total bike wight soon...

Steve Whitlatch 

Some catalog weights are misleading in that the listed weight may be without the saddle and pedals.

bikemig 

25-26 pounds is a respectable weight for a steel bike. The bike is no lightweight but it's still a quality bike.

I think trying to shave weight of this bike is a bit of a fool's errand. You can't get it down to 20 pounds. Buying a bunch of carbon bits strikes me as completely unnecessary. A lightweight wheelset may save some money but can also make the bike less durable.

I'd focus on getting the bike working right and taking sensible measures to shave some weight if needed.

If you really want a sub 20 pound bike, go buy a sub 20 pound bike.

ppg677

Weigh the frame and fork by itself. Now realize that a modern race frame is something like 2.5 lbs. They add ~13 lbs for components and wheels.

My guess is that your Miyata frame/fork weighs no more than 6 lbs. So sure, you could probably turn it into a 20 lb bike if you spent enough money on high-end components but that would be a waste of money for this bike.

My early 80s Trek 600-series weighs about 26 lbs (including an aluminum rack). Its got a hodge-podge of modern Shimano Sora components.

My 1982 Trek 950 is mostly Super Record and weighs about 21 lbs, which was within a half pound of my (SOLD) 2011 Cannondale Carbon Fiber bike. That's with pretty lightweight Fiamme tubular rims.

nlerner

This is likely just something I've convinced myself of, but it seems if I get a vintage bike down to 23 lbs or less, it feels like it has a lot more zip than over that weight, particularly for climbing. That said, as has been noted, a 310 was meant to be a tourer and is likely stout to begin with.

Slash5

I gather that depending on what crank and bottom bracket are on it, a decent modern crank and BB could knock 100-200 grams off.

Cougrrcj

The catalog links above are accurate in regards to complete bike weight. These bikes were sold as complete with pedals and saddles. The Miyata catalog even lists the components used including the tires. The '75 Fuji catalog weights were all using 23" frames, too.

Yes, many 'high end' bikes are sold without pedals/saddles - especially in more modern times.

Steve Whitlatch 

I was not singling any catalog out by my statement. Just making the op aware of the issue. I have come across this with several bikes, all original to the catalog. The actual weight wad about the weight of the saddle and pedals over catalog weight. I have never weighed a Miyata though.

Steve Whitlatch 

My first experience with this was with my 1986 schwinn prelude. After reading here about actual weights vs real weight, I weighed my supposed to be 24 lbs bike. Turned out out weighed 25.8 lbs. After changing the wheels to 700c, new saddle, pedals and removing the kick stand, I got her down to 24. 4 or something like that.

dddd

On some of those Japanese bikes, even some pretty nice ones, check that a strong magnet isn't attracted to the handlebar or chainrings.

Even my very nice Nishiki Seral tourer has a steel handlebar weighing ~3/4lb more than alloy, but having a center sleeve that conceals the actual steel bar.

Heavy bikes are typically heavy throughout!

cyclotoine

This..

And, cease consumption of simple sugars, refined grains, processed meats, processed anything, alcohol and most dairy. You'll lose a lot a more weight and have more energy. it's hard but the benefits are amazing. I am down to race weight in about a month, without having changed my exercise regime. I am only doing it temporarily and I won't do into details but I will keep some of these new eating habits and my digestive health and general well being have improved, not to mention I have dropped probably 5-10 pounds. All my bikes go faster when I am lighter.

OldsCOOL

Tires. If you are running 700c rims, go for the lightest tire you can stand. It's amazing what a lighter set of folding bead tires makes in weight difference. Anything steel/chrome needs to be swapped out for alloy. Seat, you can save on this as well.

OldManJones

Thank you for the replies. I could shave a few lbs off my 6'2'' 180 frame as well. I'm able to do what I want on the respectable but built for touring 310, so maybe the answer is do nothing and enjoy until I find a 912 or other racing frame.

rando_couche

Best way to save weight on a 310 would be to ditch it and buy something better/lighter to start with (as others have already said). Anything else would just be throwing good money after bad.

SP
OC, OR

gugie 

Thanks for posting the engine weight. I'm about your height, need to shed 25 lbs before I worry about my bike weight!

Wheels, yessir, if your 310 has stock wheels, you would do well to buy a good set, but don't worry about the weight too much. Many are finding out what Jan Heine has been preaching for some time now: fatter, supple tires are the easiest way to make your bike a bit faster.