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  1. #1
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    Aside from wheelset, how much weight can I shave off a steel frame 1980 Miyata 310?

    I figure a new wheelset could save me 2 lbs or a bit more. Right now the bike weighs 25.8 lbs. How much else would I need to do to get it close to 20 lbs? Weight isn't a huge issue for me, but i'd like to know where the next best weight savings could be. Carbon handlebars? Carbon crankset? Any help is appreciated, thanks.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Steve Whitlatch's Avatar
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    If you are starting off with a heavy frame you will have a hard time getting down to 20 lbs. I would start with a race frame.
    My bikes - 1950`s Criterium (French) - 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9 - 1980`s Guerciotti - 1994 Trek 930
    Wife`s Bike - 1980 Schwinn Voyageur 11.8

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    ok, do you know about where a 70s/80s race bike should weigh in when all original?

  4. #4
    Senior Member Lascauxcaveman's Avatar
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    Yup, lighter frame, easily found. But what you have is nice, too, though not particularly light. Go ahead and get the nicest wheel set you can afford; it'll improve your current bike and any other future bike you care to put it on.
    ● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1972 Peugeot UE-18 Mixte ● 1982 Motobecane Jubile Sport ● 1983 Nishiki Landau ● 1984 Peugeot PH10LE ● 1984 Bianchi Limited ● 1985 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Trek 600 ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1985 Raleigh Elkhorn ● 1986 Univega Nuovo Sport ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ● And a Bike to Be Named Later ●

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    sounds like a plan

  6. #6
    Senior Member Chombi's Avatar
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    In the early to mid 80's, a "respectable" weight for a race bike is around 22/23 pounds. I think, if you add about a pound or two, it will bring you back to the 70's....

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    Rear axle spacing may not match modern hubs.
    Best way to take a lot of weight off an old bike is to get a new bike.
    Best way to get a good bike is to get an old bike.
    Unless it was a cheap build, chances are compatible contemporary parts won't add up to much savings. If it was a cheap build, anything will help.

  8. #8
    Senior Member randyjawa's Avatar
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    ok, do you know about where a 70s/80s race bike should weigh in when all original?
    Actual Vintage Bicycle Weights. I have weighed each of these bicycle, myself, making no attempt to lower weights. Believe me, to get a vintage bicycle close to 20lb is a trick, under twenty is a really good trick. In the hundreds of vintage road bicycles I have owned, only one or two came in under twenty pounds - and they were lugged aluminum...

    Learn how to find, restore and maintain vintage road bicycles at... MY "TEN SPEEDS"

  9. #9
    Senior Member RobbieTunes's Avatar
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    I believe a 310 is made for the haul, not the haul ass.

    Robbie ♪♫♪...☻

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  10. #10
    Senior Member Steve Whitlatch's Avatar
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    After the wheels the weight saving comes in very small increments. For example, going from a set of Suntour Superb pedals with toe clips and straps to my Time Impact clip less pedals saved me only 4 ounces. Depending on what saddle you have, you may be able to pick up a few ounces going with a lighter saddle. Going with more expensive light weight tires and tubes can add a couple ounces.
    My bikes - 1950`s Criterium (French) - 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9 - 1980`s Guerciotti - 1994 Trek 930
    Wife`s Bike - 1980 Schwinn Voyageur 11.8

  11. #11
    Over forty victim of Fate Cougrrcj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chombi View Post
    In the early to mid 80's, a "respectable" weight for a race bike is around 22/23 pounds. I think, if you add about a pound or two, it will bring you back to the 70's....
    The weight difference between a high-end butted CrMo steel frame/fork and a 1024 'gas pipe' straight wall tubing bike is only a couple of pounds at best. My old '75 Fuji S-10S with straightwall tubing is only 26.1 pounds. Catalog page here . Even in the mid '80s, the Miyata 'professional racing series' bikes weighed in at 21-23 pounds and the 'semi-pro' series 310, 710 or 912 weighed around 24-25.5 pounds with double-butted CrMo tubing. 1984 Miyata catalog here.

    That said, the rest of the weight is in the components - mostly the wheels/tires. Tire choice alone can add a pound of rotating weight each!!!

    I had picked up a Miyata-built Univega a couple of years ago that is spec'd pretty close to a Miyata 710 of the same year. I have carefully selected some component upgrades and shaved another pound off (biggest weight loss was pedals(!) ) when I switched to the Velo Orange lightweight all-aluminum road pedals. While I'm hoping for an all-up weight of 23 pounds, I just got a digital hanging scale so I'll be able to give an accurate total bike wight soon...
    '75 Fuji S-10S bought new, 45k+ miles and still going!
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  12. #12
    Senior Member Steve Whitlatch's Avatar
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    Some catalog weights are misleading in that the listed weight may be without the saddle and pedals.
    My bikes - 1950`s Criterium (French) - 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9 - 1980`s Guerciotti - 1994 Trek 930
    Wife`s Bike - 1980 Schwinn Voyageur 11.8

  13. #13
    Senior Member bikemig's Avatar
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    25-26 pounds is a respectable weight for a steel bike. The bike is no lightweight but it's still a quality bike.

    I think trying to shave weight of this bike is a bit of a fool's errand. You can't get it down to 20 pounds. Buying a bunch of carbon bits strikes me as completely unnecessary. A lightweight wheelset may save some money but can also make the bike less durable.

    I'd focus on getting the bike working right and taking sensible measures to shave some weight if needed.

    If you really want a sub 20 pound bike, go buy a sub 20 pound bike.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldManJones View Post
    I figure a new wheelset could save me 2 lbs or a bit more. Right now the bike weighs 25.8 lbs. How much else would I need to do to get it close to 20 lbs? Weight isn't a huge issue for me, but i'd like to know where the next best weight savings could be. Carbon handlebars? Carbon crankset? Any help is appreciated, thanks.
    Weigh the frame and fork by itself. Now realize that a modern race frame is something like 2.5 lbs. They add ~13 lbs for components and wheels.

    My guess is that your Miyata frame/fork weighs no more than 6 lbs. So sure, you could probably turn it into a 20 lb bike if you spent enough money on high-end components but that would be a waste of money for this bike.

    My early 80s Trek 600-series weighs about 26 lbs (including an aluminum rack). Its got a hodge-podge of modern Shimano Sora components.

    My 1982 Trek 950 is mostly Super Record and weighs about 21 lbs, which was within a half pound of my (SOLD) 2011 Cannondale Carbon Fiber bike. That's with pretty lightweight Fiamme tubular rims.
    Last edited by ppg677; 05-22-15 at 06:56 AM.

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    This is likely just something I've convinced myself of, but it seems if I get a vintage bike down to 23 lbs or less, it feels like it has a lot more zip than over that weight, particularly for climbing. That said, as has been noted, a 310 was meant to be a tourer and is likely stout to begin with.

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    I gather that depending on what crank and bottom bracket are on it, a decent modern crank and BB could knock 100-200 grams off.

  17. #17
    Over forty victim of Fate Cougrrcj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Whitlatch View Post
    Some catalog weights are misleading in that the listed weight may be without the saddle and pedals.
    The catalog links above are accurate in regards to complete bike weight. These bikes were sold as complete with pedals and saddles. The Miyata catalog even lists the components used including the tires. The '75 Fuji catalog weights were all using 23" frames, too.

    Yes, many 'high end' bikes are sold without pedals/saddles - especially in more modern times.

  18. #18
    Senior Member Steve Whitlatch's Avatar
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    I was not singling any catalog out by my statement. Just making the op aware of the issue. I have come across this with several bikes, all original to the catalog. The actual weight wad about the weight of the saddle and pedals over catalog weight. I have never weighed a Miyata though.

  19. #19
    Senior Member Steve Whitlatch's Avatar
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    My first experience with this was with my 1986 schwinn prelude. After reading here about actual weights vs real weight, I weighed my supposed to be 24 lbs bike. Turned out out weighed 26.8 lbs. After changing the wheels to 700c, new saddle, pedals and removing the kick stand, I got her down to 24. 4 or something like that.

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