1960's Bianchi 10 speed restored
05-24-15, 09:34 PM
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Cool bike, great first post. thanks for sharing.
05-24-15, 09:38 PM
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I am having a problem with the clear coat... I think I didn't wait long enough to put the components and metal parts back on and now the clear coat has bunched up and is in bad shape in some areas. I used a rattle can clear so it is an enamel. Any tips on fixing these areas?
05-25-15, 05:21 AM
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05-25-15, 06:10 AM
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So, did you apply new decals, and then spray with clear coat?
As for fixing the bad spots, all I can think of is waiting until it is good and dry and then wet sanding to smooth out.
It takes a long time for paint to dry thoroughly. Up to a month or more.
As for fixing the bad spots, all I can think of is waiting until it is good and dry and then wet sanding to smooth out.
It takes a long time for paint to dry thoroughly. Up to a month or more.
05-25-15, 07:04 AM
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Whenever I paint a bike, I take off all the components. Wait until it's dry, sand it down to perfection, spray well but not over generously or it will bunch up again. Re assemble.
05-25-15, 07:05 AM
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Needed to see this bigger.
05-25-15, 09:42 AM
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Attractive with the red accent.
Paint issues. You mentioned clear 'enamel'. If the case, takes a long time to cure.
To repair those spots, prep with light sanding. Spray the exact paint into a small container and then with a very soft touch up brush, 'light coat' apply to the area. Let it fully cure. A 2000 grit might be needed to feather the edge of the touch up area. After a long cure, try a rubbing compound to blend the adjacent areas.
My last rattlecan project was on an ugly Motobecane. No reason to fully strip but sanded all plus feathered the rough spots. This gives the paint something already well cured to the steel. I used a Rust-O-leum combo / primer-paint. It set over the Winter. After the graphics, sprayed a urethane clear and let that cure for another month. The finish seems very tough. I actually repositioned the front derailleur a few times without marring and its chip resistant.
Paint issues. You mentioned clear 'enamel'. If the case, takes a long time to cure.
To repair those spots, prep with light sanding. Spray the exact paint into a small container and then with a very soft touch up brush, 'light coat' apply to the area. Let it fully cure. A 2000 grit might be needed to feather the edge of the touch up area. After a long cure, try a rubbing compound to blend the adjacent areas.
My last rattlecan project was on an ugly Motobecane. No reason to fully strip but sanded all plus feathered the rough spots. This gives the paint something already well cured to the steel. I used a Rust-O-leum combo / primer-paint. It set over the Winter. After the graphics, sprayed a urethane clear and let that cure for another month. The finish seems very tough. I actually repositioned the front derailleur a few times without marring and its chip resistant.
Last edited by crank_addict; 05-25-15 at 09:48 AM.
05-25-15, 03:57 PM
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Welcome to the forum llpatt97,
That's a fine job you have done.
She looks very nice.
One thing I noticed is that arms of her Nervar Sport chainset are slightly out of registration. This may be due to imperfectly matched wedgebolts or to having one mounted the wrong way 'round. If the cuts on the two bolts are slightly different you can hand file the one with the lighter cut to get it to match the other.
That's a fine job you have done.
She looks very nice.
One thing I noticed is that arms of her Nervar Sport chainset are slightly out of registration. This may be due to imperfectly matched wedgebolts or to having one mounted the wrong way 'round. If the cuts on the two bolts are slightly different you can hand file the one with the lighter cut to get it to match the other.
05-25-15, 04:50 PM
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The Celeste green paint is all original on this bike, all I did was purchase new decals that matched the original and then sprayed clear over it. One of the crank pins was put in backwards that's why you see it out of line in the picture haha... silly mistake lol. Anyways ill have to give it a go with sanding down the old clear and trying to feather it back in again. ill upload a picture of the crank side soon!
05-25-15, 05:20 PM
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thanks for the explanation llpatt97.
look forward to the next update.
look forward to the next update.
05-25-15, 07:07 PM
#13
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Looking forward to the drive side pictures.
Nice bike! Campag. Gran Sport derailleurs?
Tip: Nervar used a proprietary 128mm bolt circle diameter. If you ever need to replace the chainrings, either because of wear or a need for different sizes, you can very easily modify an easily obtained modern standard 130mm unit to it. Been there ... done that. What do you have now -- 50-47 / 13-16-19-23-26?
Nice bike! Campag. Gran Sport derailleurs?
Tip: Nervar used a proprietary 128mm bolt circle diameter. If you ever need to replace the chainrings, either because of wear or a need for different sizes, you can very easily modify an easily obtained modern standard 130mm unit to it. Been there ... done that. What do you have now -- 50-47 / 13-16-19-23-26?
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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