Universal Mod 61 Brakes - SQUEALING. To bend brake arms, or not?
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Universal Mod 61 Brakes - SQUEALING. To bend brake arms, or not?
Hello,
I am in need of advice for fixing the squeal I get in both my front and rear brakes. I know I need to toe in the brake pads, but I don't know how.
Ive read that I may need to actual bend the brake arms?
Heres my set up:
Universal Mod 61 Brakes: Universal brakes
Dia Compe 76 Grey Matter Brake Pads: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o05_s00
Mavic MA 40 Rims - Anondized: VeloBase.com - Component: Mavic MA 40
any help with this is greatly appreciated!!
I am in need of advice for fixing the squeal I get in both my front and rear brakes. I know I need to toe in the brake pads, but I don't know how.
Ive read that I may need to actual bend the brake arms?
Heres my set up:
Universal Mod 61 Brakes: Universal brakes
Dia Compe 76 Grey Matter Brake Pads: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o05_s00
Mavic MA 40 Rims - Anondized: VeloBase.com - Component: Mavic MA 40
any help with this is greatly appreciated!!
#2
Keener splendor
To bend the brake arms, use an adjustable spanner. On some types of centerpulls (either Mafac or Universal), the brakes will fail because they are too brittle to be bent. The Weinmann/DiaCompe versions are fine to bend, however.
Bicycle Rim Brakes
Bicycle Rim Brakes
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
- Yaw angle ("toe-in")
The shoe should be set so that the front edge of the shoe contacts the rim slightly before the rear edge. This is commonly called "toe-in." If this is not set perfectly, normal pad wear will eventually even it out, but braking will be less effective, and the brakes may squeal until the shoe has worn in.The traditional way to adjust yaw angle was to bend the brake arms. This can lead to failure of aluminum brake arms -- see comments by Jobst Brandt. Use brake shoes with spherical washers, or replace a smooth-stud brake that does not allow yaw-angle adjustment.
Last edited by TimmyT; 06-16-15 at 02:06 PM.
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You can sand down the pads at a slight angle. Then they're toed in without bending the arms at all.
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#5
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Yeah. Don't bother, Wsherman21. Got a belt sander? No? Got some course sandpaper and a flat bench? Just work them down a bit. Try. Sand a bit more. Try them again, etc.
Also, it might help to run around the braking surfaces with a small piece-o Scotchbrite pad. To de-glaze them, as it were. Red or gray works well.
Also, it might help to run around the braking surfaces with a small piece-o Scotchbrite pad. To de-glaze them, as it were. Red or gray works well.
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Bend 'em, I say, but not as much as SJX426 did!
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Universal sidepulls, in particular, are known for being brittle and breaking when bent. I have not heard much about bending the centerpulls, but, with said knowledge, I would try to avoid bending them.
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Just put some shims in, as mentioned at the end of this thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...l#post17899803
I made shims by cutting small strips with tabs (to rest on top of the pad holders) from soft drink cans.
I made shims by cutting small strips with tabs (to rest on top of the pad holders) from soft drink cans.
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...either sand the pads with coarse sandpaper (you remove the pads from the brakes and it goes pretty quickly),
or buy some of the new tech pads with the swell cone and cup washers to allow adjustment.
or buy some of the new tech pads with the swell cone and cup washers to allow adjustment.
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...I have bent a lot of centerpull calipers to toe in over the years, but that was when they were cheaply available as used parts all over the place. I don't usually do it any more.
...I have bent a lot of centerpull calipers to toe in over the years, but that was when they were cheaply available as used parts all over the place. I don't usually do it any more.
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+1 for sanding the brake pads to create toe-in; next best option is the nifty kean-o modern type with funky washers, etc., to create the same effect.
My memory is that Universal calipers in particular are prone to snapping when bent; for that matter, their levers are kinda iffy, too. On the other hand, the Super 69 sidepull is simply cooler than cool, and I wish I still had my old ones.
My memory is that Universal calipers in particular are prone to snapping when bent; for that matter, their levers are kinda iffy, too. On the other hand, the Super 69 sidepull is simply cooler than cool, and I wish I still had my old ones.
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Do believe there's quite a few threads about squealing brakes but agree with the above on either sanding for the toe-in or beveled / angle washers. Though I say a squealing brake is a 'happy' brake.
I just finished a build with some vintage rims having textured brake surface and using new Mafac racer replacement KoolStop salmon's. That sucker HOWL's! Normally I wouldn't have it but now think it adds to the character. LOL
I just finished a build with some vintage rims having textured brake surface and using new Mafac racer replacement KoolStop salmon's. That sucker HOWL's! Normally I wouldn't have it but now think it adds to the character. LOL
#14
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I broke my Universal 61's trying to do this, and I was using very little pressure. Don't do it. They are brittle.
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Bending caliper arm tips for proper pad toe-in been done by "everyone" at one time or another, without drama and consequences. As long as you do not over do it, in terms of both the amount of bending and how many times you do it, there should be no problem. I bent a jillion of them (mostly cheap Weinmanns) and I am still alive,..........aren't I??
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Bending caliper arm tips for proper pad toe-in been done by "everyone" at one time or another, without drama and consequences. As long as you do not over do it, in terms of both the amount of bending and how many times you do it, there should be no problem. I bent a jillion of them (mostly cheap Weinmanns) and I am still alive,..........aren't I??
You won't die as it will snap as soon as you do it, not after the fact on the bike.
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That brittle??..., then I'd be very afraid of even using that Universal brakeset, as just regular flex expected at the calipers from braking might just cause it to snap at the worst time.....
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1. Somewhere between thousands and millions of bikes had Universal 61 brakes in the 70s and there was no epidemic of calipers broken during use.
2. Flexing within the elastic limit is not going to cause failure. It's when you go beyond the elastic limit and try to permanently deform a part that the risk of failure goes way up.
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Some squeal is good. It seems to get the attention of whomever is about to cut you of better than a human scream. DAMHIKT!
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That's not a valid concern for two reasons:
1. Somewhere between thousands and millions of bikes had Universal 61 brakes in the 70s and there was no epidemic of calipers broken during use.
2. Flexing within the elastic limit is not going to cause failure. It's when you go beyond the elastic limit and try to permanently deform a part that the risk of failure goes way up.
1. Somewhere between thousands and millions of bikes had Universal 61 brakes in the 70s and there was no epidemic of calipers broken during use.
2. Flexing within the elastic limit is not going to cause failure. It's when you go beyond the elastic limit and try to permanently deform a part that the risk of failure goes way up.
I suspect that the ones that did break were either defective, in terms of having voids in their casting or the material might have been contaminated when it was cast.
Gimee you model 61's and I will bend those caliper tips for you...... maybe an experienced hand on such is all that's needed.
Last edited by Chombi; 06-16-15 at 07:14 PM.
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I find that the 61's are very finicky when it comes to pads. I have good luck with the cheapo Jagwire pads. They don't squeal and stop quite well.
#22
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I just installed more modern Clarks road pads on my '75 Fuji's Dia Comp 610 center-pulls last week. They utilize a sperical washer that allows for pad angle and toe-in. That was fortuitous since my ride the next day was in the rain. I'm sure part of the credit for the better braking was due to new pads (the old ones were rock-hard), but I was also able to install them with a bit of 'toe' as well...
My other road bike ('84 Univega Viva Sport) also is wearing the same Clarks pads on Diacompe G500 sidepulls. I have yet to be caught in the rain on that bike, but I'm sure it will eventually happen...
My other road bike ('84 Univega Viva Sport) also is wearing the same Clarks pads on Diacompe G500 sidepulls. I have yet to be caught in the rain on that bike, but I'm sure it will eventually happen...
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Thanks everyone! I sanded the pads down at an angle to creat the "toe" they dont squeal and are stopping as good as ever- now im in the market for angled washers, anyone know where to pick some up?