Johnonaschwinn

Hello Everyone, I recently purchased a 1955 hetchins fade mecum with curley stays. The paint job is awful. I believe the braze ons have been added. Can you pull braze ons off? How much is a two tone paint job? John Los Angeles, CA

thinktubes 

Any hipster should be able to take care of those braze-ons for ya.

Chombi

You will need a professional frame builder/restorer/refinisher if you are ever going to get the bike back to its former glory and also recover any of its value, especially if the original finish and graphics are all gone for good.........

Steve Whitlatch 

If you have a really great bike and no camera, do you really have a great bike?

The Golden Boy 

First- Congratulations!

Second- PIX!!!

Third- I'm sure you know what you've got- don't half-ass it (like I probably would).

Good luck!

Bianchigirll 

Congratulations!!! Check out the Historic Hetchins site Historic Hetchins, classic bicycles, vintage bicycles, collectors bicycles

You may be able to contact Mr Ingram through the site and somehow check in with previous owners.

I'd so some research before removing any brazeons. Also if they are not original really consider the functionality of them before removing. Did someone add bottle brazeons? While not period correct if you intend to the ride the bike they are better for it than a few metal bands clamped to the paint. Same with fender eyelets or rack mounts. Don't forget these bike were custom built and even if it is an all out period racer the buyer could have had any modification he wanted.

Can't wait to see pictures even in its humble down and out state. I really really miss mine but a running car and roof over my head was actually more important.

rhm

I agree with those who suggest posting photos before you start.

A mid 50s English bike is likely to have a boss brazed to the down tube for a shifter for the rear derailleur, either Simplex, Cyclo, or Campy style. The drive side dropout may or may not have a derailleur hanger, but if it does, it should probably match the shifter boss. At the bottom bracket there may be a cable guide with or without a little pulley wheel, or two cable stops for a piece of housing. There would probably be a cable stop on the chain stay.

I am not sure about any brazed-on provisions for a front derailleur.

There might be brake cable stops or guides on the side of the top tube, but not on the top of the top tube.

There would probably be lamp brackets on the right fork blade and right seat stay as well as fender eyelets on both fork blades and seat stays.

There should be no water bottle bosses, but two L-shaped pump pegs are likely.

Did that check out?

I disagree with those who say original or period appropriate parts are hard to find or expensive. For sure, you can overpay, but you don't have to.

Ideally, every component would say "BRITISH MADE" on it, but this is probably impractical.

Disregarding availability and expense for now, the "correct" wheels will have 32 spokes front and 40 rear. Either 27" or 700c tubular is correct, but I don't think anyone would object to 700c clinchers. 26x1¹/4 were outdated by this time.

Brakes should probably be GB side pulls, which can be expensive, but very similar aluminum brakes wee made by countless other manufacturers week into the 80s and it's easy to find something that looks about right from ten feet away. And with patience it is not hard to find period-correct Weinmann brakes very cheap.

The crank should probably be a cottered steelWilliams C-1000 or, better yet, a C-1200. Those are hard to find. Either way the chain ring should be removable.

hairnet

If you want it done right take the bike to Cycle Art. Cyclart

John E

Jim and Susan do indeed do nice work. This is their stock red.

Velognome 

STOP!

You need to research what you have first. Braze-ons are not uncommon on early Hetchins, MY 55 came with DT bosses and cable guides and stops.

Get the original build sheet/sale sheet before you make any changes.

Johnonaschwinn

The ones on the BB don't match. I don't believe the down the ones are original

KonAaron Snake 

I wouldn't go to cyclart personally. For the money and quality, south west is VERY nice. I'd consider Litton and Franklin as well.

devinfan

What's wrong with the current paint job?

gomango

Exactly.

Is there severe corrosion that we can't see?

Big Block

as well as the dedicated Hetchins site already given, and the willing advice to be gained from the Marque experts, I would encourage you to have a thorough read of the wonderful resource that is the Classic Lightweights site. Get a feel for the period in which your frame was made, the era which preceded it and what came after.
I wouldn't change anything until I knew what was on there originally. Be careful though, some of the bikes on the sites have components that are non-period correct and not disclosed. When you are confident that you know what is in period and what is not, that will be when you can make an informed decision as to what you direction you want to go.

Scour the V-CC library to look at the catalogues of parts you are interested in.
Three Speed Hub also has a wonderful collection of catalogues. Look at the components that were being put on the competitors bikes.

Dawesman has already been mentioned. Have a look at his Flickr site and be inspired.
Mark Stevens Flickr albums are very informative for bikes of this period.

Become informed, then you can make the right decisions. Then you can think about the paint.
In the meantime you have a perfectly good bike to ride.
And more photos please; of the bike and its current components.

repechage

I would read this thread first. Nota the only similar situation I have known of, but well documented here.

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ld-thread.html

repechage

I was expecting much much worse.
Not my aesthetic, but interesting...

Johnonaschwinn

it is horrible the clear is peeling no clear coat on the top tube. Checking with Franklin tomorrow or just selling it off. John

Road Fan

Make it work and ride it enough to make sure you want to invest and live with it. Then decide what to do to it.

repechage

As you are in Southern California... Your choices are
Cyclart, Al Wanta in northern San Diego County, Joe Bell.
Others require shipping.
Not impossible, but the to and from have to be factored in.
Southwest Frameworks (Texas)
Or for a fantastic job which you will pay for...
Keith Anderson in Oregon.
I skipped a few, some on purpose, some are attempting to transition out of painting.

Johnonaschwinn

It will be Keith or Franklin who ever can get it done quicker

repechage

Toss a few extra Benjamin's their way and cut in front of the line if time is the most important.
Call it a rush charge.

Lenton58 

I think it's a beauty right the way it is. Ride for awhile and enjoy it. I sure wish it were mine!

fender1

I would just sell it and buy ine in the condition you want.

Bianchigirll 

Well the clear coat may be bad but the actual paint doesn't look bad. I agree with Lenton and some of the others ride it first. We do not know what you are currently riding but if your not already riding a '50s or 60s English bike the ride is likely to be very different from what you are used to. You just bought it, and I presume paid a pretty penny for it. Summer doesn't last long just ride it bad clear coat (did they even do that in the '50s?) or not it is still a head turner. Spending $500+/- on paint job will not automatically increase the resale value so if you paint first you may lose out if you sell it.