Esotice

Hello guys,

This is my first post, and it looks like this website is an awesome resource. I hope that you can help me.

I have just bought a Trek 750, which I believe is a 1997. It is a seven speed, and I would like to find a way to upgrade the shifting. Has anyone done a similar retrofit? Should I replace the cassette with a 9 cog, so that I can use a modern brifter set, or would it be better to try finding some 7 speed bar end shifters?

What kind of drop bar is recommended here?

a3inverter

Here is a bit of fantastic reading for you...

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...nversions.html

Bianchigirll 

I believe you need a new wheel or at least new cassette body to get 9spd.

Barends V Brifters... depends what you like better. There are some 7spd brifters around I believe.

I like Nitto B115s and they may slip right into your present stem.

Why didn't you buy a bike with drop bars?

icepick_trotsky 

You might be able to use an 8 speed cassette. Spec sheet says that model has a "silent clutch" rear hub, which makes it difficult to upgrade the cassette body for 9 speed.

If you want to stay with 7, you can use these microshift brifters. Definitely your cheapest course of action.

Microshift Sb-472 7 Speed Road Bike Shifter Brake Levers for Shimano & Sram | Amazon.com: Outdoor Recreation

Tim_Iowa

Shimano Tourney ST-A070 are triple, 7 speed drop bar integrated brake/shifters (STI), and are about $80.

USAZorro

Will the levers pull cantilever brakes properly?

a3inverter

Yes. V-brakes, no.

oddjob2

You've got 3 X 7 mtb drive train on that Hybrid for 21 theoretical combinations. Do you really need 27?

If you find it too slow, then I would look at switching the crankset to a bigger primary ring.

Also, if you're riding the bike with 12" of seat post exposed, I'd seriously consider a bigger frame.

Henry III

To convert to 9spd it's going to cost you otherwise get some 7spd tourney shifters and road bars and your set. You can get them brand new for under 90. I would build up a hybrid frame instead of a road frame of the same time period. Better tire clearance, 700c wheels, ample braze ons and cantilever brakes make for the perfect do all bikes.

oddjob2

Welcome to the Mitten State Henry! Hope it all went smoothly and there are no surprises with your new house.

Esotice

Fair question. Here in Germany it's hard to find drop bars on anything but road bikes. There are some randonneurs, but they're really expensive. I am in the process of buying this bike as a cheaper alternative to my Felt cyclocross, to use in inclement weather, and to pull the kiddies in the Chariot.

Bianchigirll 

OH OK I forgot your in Germany.

Soody

You can run old 9 speed ergopower levers with your 7 speed group if your route the derailer clamping around the other side of the bolt.

Old ones don't say '9 speed' on them.

Chorus/ Record goes for about $150-$200 on ebay i think.

Rear Shifting | CTC

Esotice

I really don't need that many gears. I almost never change on the front. I like the idea of bar end shifters and Tektro brake levers, but it seems that the bar end shifters aren't made for 7 gears. I do have an xt cassette lying around with nine gears though.

a3inverter

If you run the bar-end shifters in friction mode, no need to worry about 7 speed vs 9 speed.

3speedslow

Esotice,

Welcome to BF. At one time I had a 750 I converted to drop bar. Really enjoyed it before moving on to MTB drop bar.

Keep the gearing but change the cockpit and you will be fine. Do see if the frame does fit well first.

wrk101

I put Tourney flat bar 7 speed shifters on a similar recent drop bar conversion. These shifters have a steel band, so they can be encouraged to fit drop bars. Cockpit is kind of crowded, but I wanted to keep the same $15 shifters my wife has on her MTBs. First picture is as found in a local flipper's scrap metal pile.

1992 Schwinn Crosscut hybrid

.

09box

How about some trekking bars?

https://www.amazon.com/Nashbar-Trekki...=trekking+bars

Esotice

Can I ask you why you migrated to a mountain bike drop bar conversion?

As for me, I recently found some parts from a local bike shop. They were all used. I got a 44 cm drop bar, vintage 105 brake levers, and some shimano friction bar end shifters. I must say however, that I am not satisfied at all. This is the first time that I have done this, and it seems I've made some mistakes. First of all, I just get the quill stem that came with the drop bar. The combination of this old stem and long drop bar with deep drops makes the whole thing feel flimsy. Also, the 105 brake levers are too narrow for my hands. Finally, The vintage stem points slightly downwards, which makes the reach feel too far away.

I think I'm going to go completely back to the drawing board. Maybe I will get a thread less stem adapter so that I can easily try out different stems and handlebars, a narrower drop bar with shallower drops, and some Tektro RL 340 brake levers, which I believe have about the same amount of surface area as most modern brifters.

3speedslow

Esotice,

I think what lead to the change was acquiring this 90' Schwinn High Plains MTB/ATB. It fit me better. Frame is 20". Reading the drop are MTB thread will give you a lot of good info.
I got it all original and made the change over. It is getting another dressing up right now with a better BB and headset. Saddle was changed while ago to a brown B17.

It it tours nicely here on the coast.

lotekmod

Esotice,

This is my 1995 Trek 750 that I converted to drop bars:


I went with the drop bar conversion for some of the same reasons you stated. I prefer drop bars for the varied hand positions, I wanted lots of clearance for wide tires and fenders, and rack mounts. The other alternatives are cycloross or true touring bikes but they are much less common around here and sell for more than I wanted to pay for a bike I use for similar purposes to you- riding in inclement weather, towing the kid, running errands, etc. Hybrid bikes are a steal in my city.

I was able to convert the stock 7 speed hub to 8 speed using a 8 speed freehub and adjusting some axle spacers. This allowed me to use some 8 speed parts I had (chain, cassette), and I was able to use Ultegra 8 speed barend shifters. The shifting works great. I felt awkward on my initial setup also. I used the stock stem at first which was too long and low and put me too far forward which made the bike feel twitchy. The Kalloy dirt drop stem was cheap and brought the bars up and in. The bike still looks odd to me but it actually handles great and I ride it quite often. It is a great "everywhere" bike- I ride it on roads, gravel, bike paths, even some dirt singletrack.

I hope you are able to dial in the fit on your bike.

Henry III

The stem can make or break these builds. Using a normal road stem will make it too low and most likely give you that superman fit. Something almost along the lines of which originally came on the bike...shirt reach and taller but with a more road friendly clamp size...26.0, 26.2, etc... or a 31.8 to use modern bars. I converted a early 90s Cannondale H400 hybrid. It's my favorite bike over my Paramount, Guerciotti or my 650c bike. It checks off all of my needs in a bike. Plus it's fairly light for what it is.

Esotice

@lotek: sweet ride! I especially like the fenders and old timer bell on there. It looks like almost the same build I'm working on.
@Henry: here is a pic of the current stem. It's not the original one, but it came with the drop bars, so I just thought I would install it. Too bad I spent all the money on cables and tape already, because it's going to have to be redone. Just too wobbly -- the leverage achieved with the 44cm bars, especially on the deep drops make that narrow road stem flex like a body builder.
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