TroN0074

Ok so I would like to take proper care for my three speed and I was wondering what kind of oil should go into the hub's oil chamber and also in the bottom bracket, which I have seem there is also an oil port for it. I have a 3 in 1 little thing, can I use that? or is there a brand that I can buy on my friendly neighbourhood auto zone? I will really appreciate it all advice. Thank you.

Velocivixen

You're bound to get a whole lot of answers. I happened to have motor oil, so I use that. It has detergent in it, which is supposed to be "bad" although I don't know why. Some swear by 3 in 1, others won't use it.

Phil Wood Tenacious oil is nice because it's still a liquid but thick.

kingsting

You'll get a pile of different answers on this one and probably all of them will be right as three speed hubs aren't real picky when it comes to oil. I've always used plain old non-detergent 30W motor oil and the hubs were quite happy with it.

oddjob2

Nothing if not thorough on any bike subject. It's all here at this link, just breeze through it.

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...-question.html

JohnDThompson 

It's not so much "bad" as unnecessary. Detergent is added to motor oil to emulsify water that condenses inside the engine. In the absence of detergent, the water accumulates in the oil pan and can eventually cause rust, or displace enough oil that you don't notice your engine oil is getting dangerously low. By emulsifying the water, it gets carried through the hot engine and gets boiled out of the oil instead of accumulating in the oil pan.

I suppose that in a bicycle hub, detergent oil could emulsify water that has entered the hub, but without engine heat it would not get boiled out of the oil and could conceivably lead to internal rust. I've not seen that happen in my experience, though.

Bianchigirll 

Unicorn Oil. Good for your knees too.

Bandera

OEM Sturmey Archer hub oil was a non-detergent machine oil ~30W, which is what modern lawn mower engine oil is.



$5 will get you a muiti-decade supply at your local home center, buy a small flex spout pump oiler as well, it makes life easier/cleaner.


For your BB forego the oiler fitting, overhaul w/ good quality bearing grease. Modern grease is a far better product than "back when".

-Bandera

Mickey2

The original Sturmey Oil was a ~20W oil, so they were made to run with a bit lighter oil than lawn mower type. I think some two cycle oils are ~20W. I just couldn't help mentioning it since I searched up a few old manual on the web lately because of this thread. It's a very annoying subject, loads of options, many things will work, very repetitive . Many insist on the original or as close as possible, and some lean towards more modern equvalents, with added benefits of teflon, synthetic oils, addditives that makes it coat the metal better, etc.

Velognome 

But then it won't drip oil on the floor....and every good Brit bike drips oil.

Mickey2

LOL, keep the tradition!
I've had and AW hub cleanded and greased at the local bike shop. Worst was a Sachs 5 speed, they definitely run lighter and shift more easily with oil, there is noticeable a difference. That's probably why the Alfine hubs run on oil too.

Bandera

A stately gentlemanly drip of genuine SA oil onto worn brick flooring wiped up with Egyptian cotton rags.........

-Bandera

Pompiere

I had heard the same thing about HD motorcycles. A guy at work bought a new one some years ago and claimed that HD had fixed that problem. Some co-workers got a small squirt bottle and stared leaving a few drops on the ground each day under the bike. Drove the poor guy nuts.

On the topic, I turn my oil containers upside down after putting oil in the cars to collect the last little bit to use in my oil can. The oil can is then used for hubs, freewheels, etc. Different vehicles and yard equipment takes different oil, so it is anyone's guess what viscosity it really is.

Grand Bois

My SA S5/2 refuses to leak oil. What am I doing wrong?

otg 

I rebuilt one for my daughter last year and used 3 in 1. No issues to report.

Mickey2

Would be nice to have first hand info on this oil; it gets any kind of appraisal or quite the opposite all over the web. The issue seems to be the version with the lemon scent, some insist the citronell oil makes it gum up over time, it makes the oil acid, or the oil is acid in it self. It might be a confusion over lemon or citric acid, which would be detrimental in a hub.

UKFan4Sure

But...but.... you're thinking BSA, Triumph, Norton, or Royal Enfield!!

billew

It seems not knowing what one is talking about isn't stopping anyone from piping in. Please do not use oil heavier than 20w, do not use 3 in 1 red it turns into a gummy mess. 3 in 1 makes a blue can marked machine oil that is fine to use. I've done about 25 hubs now including one that I put regular 3 in 1 in when I didn't know any better and it was gummed up after 5 years or so. I convert my oil bath bottom brackets with Phil Wood's grease. I do the same for the front hubs as well. These hubs are almost always dried out when I open them up. Just use 20w and remember that Sturmey Archer had many years to find the recommended weight of lube.

Bandera

"Sturmey lubrication: the best oil with which to lubricate a Sturmey hub is an oil produced for petrol lawn mowers known as 30W four-stroke motor mower engine oil."
- Classic Lightweights UK Restoration

"Only thin good quality oil should be used for the lubrication of Sturmey-Archer hubs. (Phil Wood Tenacious Oil is my favorite for this application"
-Sheldon Brown

As a Schwinn Factory Certified Mechanic from "back when" who has serviced a good many more than 25 hubs over the years I think that I can pipe in to say that when your supply of OEM SA oil runs out you can get by w/ the two recommendations above Just Fine. The AW series is a fine sturdy old beast and with a sip of any sensible potion of your choice will happily purr along for decades of faithful service.

Keep in mind that since 1936 when "Sturmey Archer had many years to find the recommended weight of lube" for the AW performance in a wide range of temperatures and environments has been far surpassed by our modern oils today. I certainly would not recommend the "ear wax" grease that Raleigh hubs, BBs and HS were packed with "back when" over what bearing grease is available at the LBS or auto parts shop today for the same reason.

If one must have OEM SA oil it is available for only $54.32 per 8 Fl Oz: Sturmey Archer Oil - very old -original - Gleaming new can w/spout, NEVER OPENED

sturmey archer oil | eBay

There is little reason for pleading on the subject of AW maintenance: Give the hub a sip of light machine oil (not what you put on your salad) when it needs it and not too much.
Proceed.

-Bandera

noglider 

This is as good an answer as we will get. If I could close the thread now, I would.

Lenton58 

Exactly what I was thinking before I read your post.Two cycle oil is very easy to obtain.

gna

TroN0074

Wow. Thank you for all responses I have motor oil which is probably what I will end up using. I really appreciate it all inputs in this thread and hopefully other people out there also find it useful. There is not much out there in the internet and that is why I started this entry. I couldn’t even find a suggested brand or anything at Sheldon's archives. Thank you.

Mickey2

The debate on oil and grease in gear hubs is an ongoing thing. There are intersting info on the web which applies as much to the old 3 speeds as it does current production any speed gear hub. This blog post is very interesting, as well as several others. Main focus is usually on the newer hubs, but it applies just as much to the older ones. Shimano Alfine 8 Speed Internal Gear Hub Oil Bath - 14degrees Off The Beaten Track , and a but futher down on this page are some intersting pictures and descriptions. https://hubstripping.wordpress.com/2...-from-shimano/

Fidbloke

If you're after 20w oil, then a good source might be the dashpot oil they sell for SU carburettors.
It's available from Burlen Fuel Systems in the UK, and I suppose any dealer which sells SU parts in both the UK and the US will stock it. The 'official' SU stuff comes in a plastic bottle with a nice little spout.

I think the bottle size is about 250ml, which should last you a few years.

clubman 

HA! Perfect for the thread.

There's an old joke about the nuance of old Newfoundland fishers revealed in just a few words, spoken at pace.

Whale
Oil
Beef
Hooked