crank_addict

Late to the party. Mentioned before but I've experimented with a variety of lubes from the above, to ATF, light viscosity synthetic motor oil but so far my fave is Tri-flow. As long as the hub internals isn't so gunked up, would think just about anything works. The Tri-flow test was a 'what the hell' moment. I first drained as much possible, sprayed WD-40 and drained. Rinse and repeat. A tablespoon of Tri-flow is plenty. Dial the shift in and its crispy positive shifts. The rapid ticking sound is like some time boom!

jimmuller 

No, sorry. Unicorn oil should be used to oil a unicorn.

repechage

There were two types, the original with the red and white can,and the blue and white can that stated motor oil, as in small electric motors, bike chains, etc.

Been a long time since I bought some, a very long time, they may not make both types anymore, only the hardware store locally sold the motor oil version.

Mickey2

Sidetracking a bit but; I always thought whale oil had to be some kind of sticky oil eventually making all kinds of horror. It has't been used since my great grand father was alive so I had only heard about it. A few years ago a neigbour has cleaned the atic, grand mother and grand daughter sits there trying to clean up the old machine. With the machine, which probably was over a 100 years old was a bottle of whale oil for lubricating, harldy anything left or in a good state, but the sewing machine was still in good condition, just very dry. Nothing sticky, frozen or gunked up. These days it runs on Triflow, probably smoother than ever before. It probably was a good lubricating oil, in the days when mineral oil wasn't that refined.

Mickey2

I've had much the same experience as you, I went for Finish Line Wet lube though, it's easy to buy in stores here, it's very similar to Triflow; it has the advantage of a synthetic oil and added teflon. If you wish to improve on the original Sturmey oil these are the types of oil to go for. You have to spend about a dollar a year on your hub though, perhaps even two on a very neglected one to start with. Of all the laternatives mentioned, there are very few who makes the hub run lighter and smoother, shift more easily etc.

TroN0074

After I bough motor oil at my local AutoZone I found blue can '3 in 1' at Menards. I am not sure if Menards is a country wide business but I am sure if they carrie that stuff home depot would too. Stay away from Whale oil and Unicorn Oil.

BigChief 

I've already stated my preference for fresh grease in the bearings and a light coating of heavier, sticky oil. But, there are
other things you can do to make a vintage SA hub run and shift smoothly.
First, a new chain. It's amazing how much a new chain can quiet down the drive train.
Second, you can experiment with cog alignment using the ring spacers.
For shifting, check that the indicator spindle chain is straight and supple. They can be damaged from the bike falling on the right side. A rusty, sticky link can make shifting dodgy. Also, the chain should not be screwed in fully. It should be backed off one turn so the links will self level against the nut. And , of course, a slick, smooth cable. New is always nice.

Narhay

I used Schwinn chain lube...then I used filzer hippy chain lube when I ran out of the Schwinn stuff. Seems to be singing along nicely but I'd buy a can of oil if that is truly a better product.

Bandera

Chain lube and machine oil are not the same thing and are intended for different applications.
An AW requires light machine oil for proper operation.
Do your hub a favor and add a sip of machine oil instead which is cheaper and easier than a premature/un-necessary overhaul.
Whatever you use for oil changes in your automobile is better than chain lube although Phil or 30W mower motor oil are not an excessive expense if you intend to keep an AW in service for a few decades and are readily available. Other potions have their adherents since OEM SA oil is no longer in production.

Here's the shop manual "back when" AW overhaul service was common:

"Lubrication

Lubricate ball bearings by filling the spaces between the balls with grease, be careful not to grease pawls.
Lightly oil other internal parts with a good quality cycle oil. (WD-40 is too light for lasting lubrication, 3-ini-1 oil gums up with age.)
Add about two teaspoons of oil when assembled."

Sutherlands Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics 4th Edition



-Bandera

gna

Two teaspoons? That's a lot of oil...

gna

Bandera

That's the initial oil bath fill after a full overhaul/tear down/clean/re-build.
In service a sip of your favorite potion is all that is required whenever needed.

-Bandera

Mickey2

What's the difference then? I used to have a small bottle if SAE 20 (basic refined mineral oil, no additives) thinking it was 1. choice for all the old Sturmey 3 speeds? It's certaily sold as a light all around machine and chain oil. Chain lubricant can of course be anyting these days; dry, wax, extreme, ecofriendly, and vegetable based, spray can; the list is long. The regular wet lube is usually very close to basic SAE20, often a bit lighter, the fanciest are a a synthetic equivalent, usually of petroleum origin. When did the general recommendation switch from 20SAE to 30SAE, or was it alway a case of this or that, not a big deal?

Bandera

"Back when" in our Schwinn/Raleigh shop we used SA oil for service on AW hubs, by the book as it were for warranty purposes and because it worked just fine.

Sutherlands Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics was/is the go to tech source for what are now C&V machines.

"Lightly oil other internal parts with a good quality cycle oil."
-Sutherlands

Not terribly specific but every shop had the SA oil or Schwinn "Cycle Oil" on the bench, both light machine oil w/o detergents and appropriate.

Sutherlands Do Not: "(WD-40 is too light for lasting lubrication, 3-ini-1 oil gums up with age.)"
I'll add: Chain lube is designed to dry out, and is not suitable for an oil bath AW hub. Use a light machine oil.

When Phil oil in the friendly green plastic bottle came along it was widely used in shops, and made a long lasting satisfying "purr" in AW hubs.
Recommended by my contemporary Sheldon Brown, can't go far wrong there.

When SA oil became obsolete substitutes were found, as many have noted in this thread.
I agree with Classic Lightweights that mower motor oil at 30W and non-detergent is a good readily available inexpensive replacement for SA oil, particularly in TX heat.

The AW hub is durable reliable design that if treated with a modicum of care and a sip of a sensible potion of your choice will work for decades as my '57 AW has/does on a diet of SA, Phil and 30W.

-Bandera

Sixty Fiver

I use 10-30 synthetic or Phil's depending on when I will be riding the bike.

Synthetic oil in the winter keeps the hub ticking really smoothly at colder temperatures.

Mickey2

My experience started with an old Sturmey Archer AB hub, which worked fine with oil. The bike mechanics who trued the wheel and serviced the hub insisted on greasing it but I wanted to keep it as original as possible (and besides, it was working fine with a basic oil). Later I ended up with an AW hub and a Sachs 5 speed hub cleaned and greased (to my regret). They were slow to change gear, and I mean it literally; like peddaling slight uphill all the time. I started with adding Finish Line Ceramic Wet Lube to thin out the grease, and was very happy with the result. Later I started opening hubs my self, cleaning and oiling with various oils. I live in an area where Texas heat never arrives, at best we have general T-shirt weather, and that's probably why an oil like Finish Line Ceramic Wet Lube which ideally is a bit too thin, has worked well.

Sixty Fiver

When SA was making hubs they did not have the same lubricant technologies we have now... the stuff that keeps my vehicle engines running smoothly from -30C to plus 30C (and beyond) is more than adequate for a bicycle hub that never sees speeds over 200 rpm.

Seems like you can run almost any oil as long as it is not vegetable based and they will tick along happily and climate and riding conditions have some effect on people's choices.

In a place like Texas a heavier oil would be better while winter riders would benefit from lighter weights or synthetics.

Bandera

Here's a simple test to determine which type of machine oil to use in your AW.

Did you mow your lawn today? Yes = Phil or 30W mower motor oil
Did you use a snowblower to clear your driveway today? Yes = 10-30 synthetic per @Sixty Fiver

-Bandera

jimmuller 

Shouldn't you use 3-speed oil in a 3-speed hub, 5-speed oil in a 5-speed hub, and 8-speed oil in an 8-speed hub? What's so complicated about that?

Inquiring minds want (but don't really need) to know.

Lenton58 

I am not surprised at this for several reasons. It is amazing stuff and has solved a number of lubrication applications in wondrous ways for me — like old freewheels I don't want to disassemble. I don't know what you pay for it, but here in Japan it costs as much as an 18 year old single malt scotch. In order to conserve my supply, I try to use a "Wakos" product — Japan's supplier of hi-perfrmance/racing lubricants.

Mickey2

I just opened a 1980s Sachs Torpedo 3 Speed hub with coaster brakes. They are alway greased and works after decades of abuse, "works" is very agruable as the decades go by, shifts, turns but seriously slow and far from smooth and light running. This hub is an argument for spending a lot of WD40 if it's not going to be opened up, the hub is sticky, grease has dried up, lots of grime and grit probably due to the coaster brake. Repeted flushings of WD40 will probly help a lot and do more than the regular lubricating oil. The old oiled hubs are usually never this bad, it's mostly the greased coster brake hubs, maybe greased hubs in general.

BigChief 

Sometimes I forget that everybody in the world doesn't live in Florida. It's just that, when you're here, it seems like they do.