What are you working on? Fall 2015 In-progress Build Thread
#151
Senior Member
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Location: Dayton, Ohio
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Bikes: Trek 720, Trek 620, Trek 520, Steel Schwinns, AD Puch, Kona, Nishiki Pro, All City Disc Spacehorse, Waterford
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CIOCC Designer 84, all Campagnolo, including barend shifters.
#154
Bike Butcher of Portland
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Too damn much!
I've got a Fuji "The Finest" that's brakes and fenders away from completition, a 50's Rochet that I thin I have all the parts to put together and just need to give some parts an oxalic acid bath, my Raleigh International is torn down to the frame for some torch work, and a couple other frames that are hanging off of meat hooks that whisper to me every time I'm in the garage...
So what did I do yesterday? Ordered fork blades, crown, and dropouts so I can give a try at building a fork!
I've got a Fuji "The Finest" that's brakes and fenders away from completition, a 50's Rochet that I thin I have all the parts to put together and just need to give some parts an oxalic acid bath, my Raleigh International is torn down to the frame for some torch work, and a couple other frames that are hanging off of meat hooks that whisper to me every time I'm in the garage...
So what did I do yesterday? Ordered fork blades, crown, and dropouts so I can give a try at building a fork!
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
#157
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#158
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The Free Spirit 8 speed project is nearly done. I am waiting for a long reach Weinmann/Raleigh center pull to arrive for the rear and a Surly brake cable hanger. The bike is much nicer than I had imagined. The weather here on the east coast is too lousy for a test ride right now, but there is always tomorrow.
I'll probably add a rear rack and maybe SKS fenders later. The frame has one of the better factory paint jobs that I have seen.
I'll probably add a rear rack and maybe SKS fenders later. The frame has one of the better factory paint jobs that I have seen.
#159
Extraordinary Magnitude
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Congratualtions!
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#160
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Continuation of the 'brifting' project. Ugh!
With the 7-speed Suntour Ultra6 and Campag NR derailleur, shifting was, ummm, less than perfect. Between some sprockets, perfect, others it passed right over. Part of this project was to give the poor lass something easier than a 22 on the back, so I sourced a Sachs with a 25, and figured that should be the next change I make. Oops. The chain wouldn't clear the seat stay.
Sachs
Suntour
Side by side.
Numbers:
OA width: Suntour 1.39 Sachs 1.36+
OA sprockets: 1.25 1.30
Face/Face sprockets .21 .21 (I didn't have a good way to measure distance between, but this should do, I think)
~ Clearance between outside sprocket and dropout: Suntour .110 Sachs .060
Suggestions? Ideas? Anyone with a RTP, what are you running for a freewheel?
With the 7-speed Suntour Ultra6 and Campag NR derailleur, shifting was, ummm, less than perfect. Between some sprockets, perfect, others it passed right over. Part of this project was to give the poor lass something easier than a 22 on the back, so I sourced a Sachs with a 25, and figured that should be the next change I make. Oops. The chain wouldn't clear the seat stay.
Sachs
Suntour
Side by side.
Numbers:
OA width: Suntour 1.39 Sachs 1.36+
OA sprockets: 1.25 1.30
Face/Face sprockets .21 .21 (I didn't have a good way to measure distance between, but this should do, I think)
~ Clearance between outside sprocket and dropout: Suntour .110 Sachs .060
Suggestions? Ideas? Anyone with a RTP, what are you running for a freewheel?
#162
Senior Member
Thanks for the suggestions & sympathies. I gave A Bicycle Odyssey a call, but no dice. I just bit the bullet and bought a used KG66 frame/fork with matching dropout (14 day return in case I can source another dropout in the meantime). I'd prefer not to cut up another frame for the dropout but I'm determined to get this project done. Plan to sell the fork & headset to mitigate costs. Either Frank the Welder or Calfee will do the repair. All's not lost but it's going to be an expensive mistake.
#163
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#164
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I continue to tweak my bike geekdom.
Yesterday, I spent 3 hours wrenching. Almost none of it visible.
1-some more trial and error touch-up on a specific shade of grey.
2-some paint restoration on a set of pedals, after mixing the paint to match.
3-removal of a perfectly good headset from a complete bike (I do not have a repair stand).
4-replacement of the same headset, simply to match the group.
5-replacment of color-coordinated Look pedals with pedals that match the group.
6-slight touch-up on someone else's bike.
7-re-gluing of saddle edge fabric to the shell.
8-installing a seat post and re-glued saddle on a build.
9-unwrapping of a bar, removal of brake levers, and mounting with stem on a build.
10-installation of brake calipers on same build, just to get a better grip on the "look."
On one build, of mine, I now have about 40 hours of labor. It's on it's second group, and I still have to build the wheels.
What's (sort of) funny, is that it doesn't look or ride a whit better than it did--it's just more period-correct.
Yesterday, I spent 3 hours wrenching. Almost none of it visible.
1-some more trial and error touch-up on a specific shade of grey.
2-some paint restoration on a set of pedals, after mixing the paint to match.
3-removal of a perfectly good headset from a complete bike (I do not have a repair stand).
4-replacement of the same headset, simply to match the group.
5-replacment of color-coordinated Look pedals with pedals that match the group.
6-slight touch-up on someone else's bike.
7-re-gluing of saddle edge fabric to the shell.
8-installing a seat post and re-glued saddle on a build.
9-unwrapping of a bar, removal of brake levers, and mounting with stem on a build.
10-installation of brake calipers on same build, just to get a better grip on the "look."
On one build, of mine, I now have about 40 hours of labor. It's on it's second group, and I still have to build the wheels.
What's (sort of) funny, is that it doesn't look or ride a whit better than it did--it's just more period-correct.
#165
Fuji Fan
I've got an abundance of bikes to finish
1. 1959 Hetchins (picked this up a few years ago with 70's Suntour group.) - install English parts
2. 1950s Criterium - purchased yesterday and will source period french hubs and build wheelset
3. 1984 Trek 720 - build new wheelset.
1. 1959 Hetchins (picked this up a few years ago with 70's Suntour group.) - install English parts
2. 1950s Criterium - purchased yesterday and will source period french hubs and build wheelset
3. 1984 Trek 720 - build new wheelset.
#166
Full Member
About halfway done with the rebuild of '75 Moto Grand Jubilee Mixte that is a perfect match for my '75 men's Grand Jubilee. Hopefully it will be small enough for my 4'11" wife. Otherwise I guess I'll sell them both
#167
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Continuation of the 'brifting' project. Ugh!
With the 7-speed Suntour Ultra6 and Campag NR derailleur, shifting was, ummm, less than perfect. Between some sprockets, perfect, others it passed right over. Part of this project was to give the poor lass something easier than a 22 on the back, so I sourced a Sachs with a 25, and figured that should be the next change I make. Oops. The chain wouldn't clear the seat stay.
With the 7-speed Suntour Ultra6 and Campag NR derailleur, shifting was, ummm, less than perfect. Between some sprockets, perfect, others it passed right over. Part of this project was to give the poor lass something easier than a 22 on the back, so I sourced a Sachs with a 25, and figured that should be the next change I make. Oops. The chain wouldn't clear the seat stay.
#168
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That's the basics of what the Yahoo SBDU group said, too, tho they felt I'd probably need to redish the wheel. Great minds think alike. Me, being basically lazy, was hoping for another way out .
#169
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Good luck.
#170
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I still haven't quite figured out how I want to build up this 1984 Trek 610. I picked up the frame from a BF member. My original idea was to build it up as a parts bin bike. I still leaning in that direction. I have a wheel set of mavic open 4 CD rim and specialized sealed hubs, an old Shimano 600 triple crank, and shimano 105 long reach brakes. I can't decide whether to go non-indexing with suntour or indexing with shimano.
#171
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I guess it's fitting that I should follow bikemigs Trek parts build. This is my parts swap over from my Mongoose 450 to the Trek 620. My intention was not to buy anything, but we all know how that goes. I ended up buying a Soma Hwy bar and some Diacompe 981 brakes because the "old " brakes would not reach the rims. The Diacompe's don't have the stopping power as the Tektro's but I am pretty happy with the way it came out.
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80 Mercian Olympic, 92 DB Overdrive, '07 Rivendell AHH, '16 Clockwork All-Rounder
80 Mercian Olympic, 92 DB Overdrive, '07 Rivendell AHH, '16 Clockwork All-Rounder
#172
aka Tom Reingold
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It's finished! I rode it to work today. What a blast.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#173
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I've been thinking about this. If this were my bike, first I'd talk to some extremely good, technical welders that I know, and get their thoughts as to whether this could be welded. If not, my next stop would be to a very talented machinist, and ask him about making a duplicate.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#174
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I made a test ride on my Free Spirit with the Sturmey Archer XRF8 yesterday. I had issues with the shifting - it was very inconsistent, some gears worked upshifting, but not downshifting and vice versa (it work perfectly on the stand with no load). A friend came over later to watch Philly and Washington and we discussed the problem. We decided to take the hub apart tomorrow (today, as it were).
This AM I went online to download manuals, user guides, videos, and such. I adjusted the hub exactly as the manual suggested. I came across an older thread on BikeForums mentioning that bearing adjustment could be the problem. I had thought that the bearings were a bit tight from the beginning, but was hesitant to make changes to the hub. So I loosened the left bearing about 1/4 turn, and guess what - the hub shifts up and down perfectly. In my opinion the bearings are still a bit too tight, but I am not going to mess with success.
This AM I went online to download manuals, user guides, videos, and such. I adjusted the hub exactly as the manual suggested. I came across an older thread on BikeForums mentioning that bearing adjustment could be the problem. I had thought that the bearings were a bit tight from the beginning, but was hesitant to make changes to the hub. So I loosened the left bearing about 1/4 turn, and guess what - the hub shifts up and down perfectly. In my opinion the bearings are still a bit too tight, but I am not going to mess with success.
#175
Extraordinary Magnitude
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Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
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I'm constantly tinker****ing with my bikes.
About the most work I'm sort of planning on is mounting trekking bars on my 1987 High Sierra. The bars I got may not work with the stem I want to use. The stem is very important. I'm going with thumb shifters, I have a set of Suntour ratcheting thumb shifters and I also have an MT-60 Deore set of indexed shifters as well as a set of M732 XT shifters. Brake levers are probably going to be some old school DiaCompe 4 finger levers. If this build works out, and it's comfy and awesome- I've got some XT bits saved up for a dominant build.
About the most work I'm sort of planning on is mounting trekking bars on my 1987 High Sierra. The bars I got may not work with the stem I want to use. The stem is very important. I'm going with thumb shifters, I have a set of Suntour ratcheting thumb shifters and I also have an MT-60 Deore set of indexed shifters as well as a set of M732 XT shifters. Brake levers are probably going to be some old school DiaCompe 4 finger levers. If this build works out, and it's comfy and awesome- I've got some XT bits saved up for a dominant build.
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*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.