jjames1452 

CIOCC Designer 84, all Campagnolo, including barend shifters.

lasauge 

Got my main fall project done. Before:


And after:

Aemmer

SP #11

gugie 

Too damn much!

I've got a Fuji "The Finest" that's brakes and fenders away from completition, a 50's Rochet that I thin I have all the parts to put together and just need to give some parts an oxalic acid bath, my Raleigh International is torn down to the frame for some torch work, and a couple other frames that are hanging off of meat hooks that whisper to me every time I'm in the garage...

So what did I do yesterday? Ordered fork blades, crown, and dropouts so I can give a try at building a fork!

Roger M

Very nice. When was the frame built?

Aemmer

May 82.

djkashuba 

Picchio Special by djk762, on Flickr

dweenk

The Free Spirit 8 speed project is nearly done. I am waiting for a long reach Weinmann/Raleigh center pull to arrive for the rear and a Surly brake cable hanger. The bike is much nicer than I had imagined. The weather here on the east coast is too lousy for a test ride right now, but there is always tomorrow.

I'll probably add a rear rack and maybe SKS fenders later. The frame has one of the better factory paint jobs that I have seen.

The Golden Boy 

Oh wow... that is effing cool.

Congratualtions!

Ed.

Continuation of the 'brifting' project. Ugh!

With the 7-speed Suntour Ultra6 and Campag NR derailleur, shifting was, ummm, less than perfect. Between some sprockets, perfect, others it passed right over. Part of this project was to give the poor lass something easier than a 22 on the back, so I sourced a Sachs with a 25, and figured that should be the next change I make. Oops. The chain wouldn't clear the seat stay.



Sachs



Suntour



Side by side.

Numbers:

OA width: Suntour 1.39 Sachs 1.36+
OA sprockets: 1.25 1.30
Face/Face sprockets .21 .21 (I didn't have a good way to measure distance between, but this should do, I think)

~ Clearance between outside sprocket and dropout: Suntour .110 Sachs .060

Suggestions? Ideas? Anyone with a RTP, what are you running for a freewheel?

delicious

Nice! Was that the one on CL recently?

delicious

I feel your pain, Randy. Did nearly the same thing with my Raleigh Pro years back.

djkashuba 

Picked it up in June. Just getting around to it now.

-D

RobbieTunes

I continue to tweak my bike geekdom.

Yesterday, I spent 3 hours wrenching. Almost none of it visible.
1-some more trial and error touch-up on a specific shade of grey.
2-some paint restoration on a set of pedals, after mixing the paint to match.
3-removal of a perfectly good headset from a complete bike (I do not have a repair stand).
4-replacement of the same headset, simply to match the group.
5-replacment of color-coordinated Look pedals with pedals that match the group.
6-slight touch-up on someone else's bike.
7-re-gluing of saddle edge fabric to the shell.
8-installing a seat post and re-glued saddle on a build.
9-unwrapping of a bar, removal of brake levers, and mounting with stem on a build.
10-installation of brake calipers on same build, just to get a better grip on the "look."

On one build, of mine, I now have about 40 hours of labor. It's on it's second group, and I still have to build the wheels.
What's (sort of) funny, is that it doesn't look or ride a whit better than it did--it's just more period-correct.

beech333

I've got an abundance of bikes to finish

1. 1959 Hetchins (picked this up a few years ago with 70's Suntour group.) - install English parts
2. 1950s Criterium - purchased yesterday and will source period french hubs and build wheelset
3. 1984 Trek 720 - build new wheelset.

motogeek 

About halfway done with the rebuild of '75 Moto Grand Jubilee Mixte that is a perfect match for my '75 men's Grand Jubilee. Hopefully it will be small enough for my 4'11" wife. Otherwise I guess I'll sell them both

RobbieTunes

I'd put a washer on the axle. I sure wouldn't re-dish or anything. One washer, adjust your calipers a bit. If you're worried about dish/braking, put one on the other side, too.

Ed.

That's the basics of what the Yahoo SBDU group said, too, tho they felt I'd probably need to redish the wheel. Great minds think alike. Me, being basically lazy, was hoping for another way out .

Ed.

I've been thinking about this. If this were my bike, first I'd talk to some extremely good, technical welders that I know, and get their thoughts as to whether this could be welded. If not, my next stop would be to a very talented machinist, and ask him about making a duplicate.

Good luck.

bikemig 

I still haven't quite figured out how I want to build up this 1984 Trek 610. I picked up the frame from a BF member. My original idea was to build it up as a parts bin bike. I still leaning in that direction. I have a wheel set of mavic open 4 CD rim and specialized sealed hubs, an old Shimano 600 triple crank, and shimano 105 long reach brakes. I can't decide whether to go non-indexing with suntour or indexing with shimano.

Kobe 

I guess it's fitting that I should follow bikemigs Trek parts build. This is my parts swap over from my Mongoose 450 to the Trek 620. My intention was not to buy anything, but we all know how that goes. I ended up buying a Soma Hwy bar and some Diacompe 981 brakes because the "old " brakes would not reach the rims. The Diacompe's don't have the stopping power as the Tektro's but I am pretty happy with the way it came out.

noglider 

It's finished! I rode it to work today. What a blast.

gaucho777 

Thanks for your thoughts and suggestion. I have been in touch with an extremely good welder. I've also managed to source another matching dropout which is supposed to arrive by the end of the week. The plan is to cut out the broken dropout and rebond/epoxy the replacement dropout onto the frame. It'll get done, probably as good as new, just not as soon as I'd hoped and at an added cost.

dweenk

I made a test ride on my Free Spirit with the Sturmey Archer XRF8 yesterday. I had issues with the shifting - it was very inconsistent, some gears worked upshifting, but not downshifting and vice versa (it work perfectly on the stand with no load). A friend came over later to watch Philly and Washington and we discussed the problem. We decided to take the hub apart tomorrow (today, as it were).

This AM I went online to download manuals, user guides, videos, and such. I adjusted the hub exactly as the manual suggested. I came across an older thread on BikeForums mentioning that bearing adjustment could be the problem. I had thought that the bearings were a bit tight from the beginning, but was hesitant to make changes to the hub. So I loosened the left bearing about 1/4 turn, and guess what - the hub shifts up and down perfectly. In my opinion the bearings are still a bit too tight, but I am not going to mess with success.

The Golden Boy 

I'm constantly tinker****ing with my bikes.

About the most work I'm sort of planning on is mounting trekking bars on my 1987 High Sierra. The bars I got may not work with the stem I want to use. The stem is very important. I'm going with thumb shifters, I have a set of Suntour ratcheting thumb shifters and I also have an MT-60 Deore set of indexed shifters as well as a set of M732 XT shifters. Brake levers are probably going to be some old school DiaCompe 4 finger levers. If this build works out, and it's comfy and awesome- I've got some XT bits saved up for a dominant build.