Bah! First Broken Spoke, and Unrelated Question
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Bah! First Broken Spoke, and Unrelated Question
Morning ride today and whang! I heard a brand new sound that clearly was not good. Busted spoke on the rear wheel of my Paramount. Got a ride home, etc., wheel will be fixed later today, but noticed this while poking around for any associated damage:
The little freewheel removal flange (or whatever it's called) is a mess. About a 3mm segment is bent to 90 degrees and torn away from where it ought to be. Based on grime it's been this way for some time, I assume since I bought the bike, but am I going to be in a special ring of hell when the time comes to pull that sucker off? And since it's a drive-side spoke, is today that time?
The little freewheel removal flange (or whatever it's called) is a mess. About a 3mm segment is bent to 90 degrees and torn away from where it ought to be. Based on grime it's been this way for some time, I assume since I bought the bike, but am I going to be in a special ring of hell when the time comes to pull that sucker off? And since it's a drive-side spoke, is today that time?
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
Last edited by Fahrenheit531; 09-27-15 at 01:04 PM. Reason: replace photo with something useful
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Most likely, yes.
If you get a freewheel remover in there, use the skewer (or a skewer) to get it clamped as tightly as you can to the freewheel, and put it in a vice, you might get lucky.
I have a stack of freewheels if you need one.
If you get a freewheel remover in there, use the skewer (or a skewer) to get it clamped as tightly as you can to the freewheel, and put it in a vice, you might get lucky.
I have a stack of freewheels if you need one.
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The best tool for removing those nasty Regina 2-prong freewheels is the Campagnolo #704, likely found at a crusty old bike shop that still has a Campagnolo tool kit and knows how to use it:
It works best if you remove the smallest cog from the freewheel first, so you don't have to use the "reducing insert" and the ring on the tool fits snugly against the freewheel body. You'll probably need to use a pliers or hammer and punch to move that shard of the flange out of the way as well. A quick release skewer, as lord_athlon notes, will help hold the tool in place. Once the freewheel breaks free of the hub, you'll need to remove the skewer to fully unthread the freewheel from the hub.
It works best if you remove the smallest cog from the freewheel first, so you don't have to use the "reducing insert" and the ring on the tool fits snugly against the freewheel body. You'll probably need to use a pliers or hammer and punch to move that shard of the flange out of the way as well. A quick release skewer, as lord_athlon notes, will help hold the tool in place. Once the freewheel breaks free of the hub, you'll need to remove the skewer to fully unthread the freewheel from the hub.
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Man I love the knowledge around here!
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
#5
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Man I got history with those dang two prong freewheels ! Enough to drive a body to use Shimano !
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The Bicycle Research freewheel tool also works really well if you can't find the Campy one. It has a collar around it to keep if from slipping off. I have used it successfully on FUBAR Regina freewheels.
Also, the two-notch tool that Park sells for SunTour freewheels will not fit Regina freewheels.
Also, the two-notch tool that Park sells for SunTour freewheels will not fit Regina freewheels.
#9
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Yeah, soak it in penetrating oil. Doesn't look like it will be a problem.
#10
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The Bicycle Research freewheel tool also works really well if you can't find the Campy one. It has a collar around it to keep if from slipping off. I have used it successfully on FUBAR Regina freewheels.
Also, the two-notch tool that Park sells for SunTour freewheels will not fit Regina freewheels.
Also, the two-notch tool that Park sells for SunTour freewheels will not fit Regina freewheels.
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There were casualties...
...but it's off. Carnage was inevitable I think; it was resisting the removal process, and reinstallation wasn't on the list of things that might happen. Subtlety went out the window pretty quickly.
...but it's off. Carnage was inevitable I think; it was resisting the removal process, and reinstallation wasn't on the list of things that might happen. Subtlety went out the window pretty quickly.
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
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You can always cut new notches on a good portion of metal. qed
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Check to make sure you didn't bend the axle. (It happens.) It looks like a good bit of lateral force went into that job.
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sometimes I removed the axle and got a tool across the 2 straights
I also used a file with the handle removed, of course i have the file in a vise and the axle removed.
mike in Deale MD
I also used a file with the handle removed, of course i have the file in a vise and the axle removed.
mike in Deale MD
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What??? Only 2 wheels?
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a lot of change in my life, New house project is going on, full re plumb, then some electrical. I only got my 2 speed with me, hopefully next summer more time.
I miss you guys!
I miss you guys!
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First time I lost a spoke on my 40 year old Mavic wheel, I was lucky- it was not on the freewheel side.
I found a spare old spoke to fit on. Just lifted off the tubular a few inches.
BUT, then, soon thereafter, two spokes broke at the hub elbow of the freewheel side.
In short, when one spoke goes, be wise and rebuild the entire wheel.
I re-spoked the wheel myself, saving a lot of money.
Then took the wheel to a pro shop for the final truing.
Paid about $45. for the spokes & nipples, & another $45. for the truing.
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I have no sentimentality for those Regina freewheels. Replace yours with something better.
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I've filed the notches down before... after getting it off???
It is ok if the bottom of the notches get angled, as long as you get good square ends on them.
Then, as mentioned, always make sure your tool is clamped down tight before removing.
It is ok if the bottom of the notches get angled, as long as you get good square ends on them.
Then, as mentioned, always make sure your tool is clamped down tight before removing.
#23
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According to S.Brown, there shouldn't be any compatibility issues, so unless I hear strongly worded opinions to the contrary I'll be moving forward. Can't afford to throw $649 (wtf?!!?) at the auction site Campys right at the moment (or ever).
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
Last edited by Fahrenheit531; 09-27-15 at 09:12 PM.
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I've used this spare emergency spoke before and its always in my tool pack. This kit was made by a company years ago but probably wouldn't be too difficult to replicate. Good for any length and if you're lucky enough to finagle or snip off the broken one behind a FW, you then feed the line through the hole. Its usually OK if you have a high spoke count and older wheel to leave the other spoke tension alone. But I've found the low spoke count and high tension makes for a loaded mouse trap. Have to move quickly but evenly releasing tension on the good spokes, otherwise they might start to pop.