Tell Me About Cantilever Brakes
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OK, I'm now looking at getting either Dia Compe 960 or 980 brakes. Does anyone have experience with either of these two models? Is one better than the other?
960:
980:
960:
980:
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Those are beautiful and somewhat rare cantis.Go for any Shimano's from the late 80's and they'll work. Coops and bike shops will have missing parts. Many small parts come with replacement pads. Loosen up or replace pads with allen keys and cables with metric wrenches. It all makes sense when you dive into them.Clean and grease posts. Rough up pads, clean rims and do some "toe-in" Look up 3rd hand tool and improvise. Use pics online to show you well set up brakes and imitate cable lengths and geometries. Put caps on end of cables or use super-glue. Frayed cables suk.
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What type of bike are you looking to build up? Dia Compe's, IIRC, were known for being mediocre to poor stoppers. Shimano's higher end offerings were considered to be the better canti brakes. Scott Mattheuser and Kool Stop pads were preferred as aftermarket pads.
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That being said, I've got 3 bikes with the first version Deore XT cantis (BR-MC70), two with Scott/Mathauser and one with Kool Stop pads. They're great brakes, and wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone.
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Justin,
i have a set of the 980s on my winter commuter. It's a 40+ lb bike, and even with my 190lbs added and my pannier bag (total approx 250lb) it stops just fine with a set of normal (not kool-stop) replacement pads installed. This was in mid winter too, with wet and salt everywhere, and very cold temps. They also clean up and polish very easily due to no anodizing.
[IMG]P1030791 by Mark, on Flickr[/IMG]
My only negative comment is that the adjustment of the pads can be very finicky with the curved washer sets, and difficult at best to lock in.
i have a set of the 980s on my winter commuter. It's a 40+ lb bike, and even with my 190lbs added and my pannier bag (total approx 250lb) it stops just fine with a set of normal (not kool-stop) replacement pads installed. This was in mid winter too, with wet and salt everywhere, and very cold temps. They also clean up and polish very easily due to no anodizing.
[IMG]P1030791 by Mark, on Flickr[/IMG]
My only negative comment is that the adjustment of the pads can be very finicky with the curved washer sets, and difficult at best to lock in.
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Cantilever brakes can be kinda finicky but the best advice is good pads and straddled carriers not y-dongles. I truly believe those y dongles are what killed Canti's (although v-brakes are pretty awesome), they make the squeeze feel all mushy.
I like the old late 80's, early 90's wide mounted Shimano stuff over most others, I like the modern Tektro 720's quite a bit as well. TEKTRO BRAKE SYSTEMS
I like the old late 80's, early 90's wide mounted Shimano stuff over most others, I like the modern Tektro 720's quite a bit as well. TEKTRO BRAKE SYSTEMS
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Is this what you mean by "straddled carriers?"
Thanks for the info!
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Same here...
I assume you mean the one ended cable that you would route the brake cable through and to the clamp on the brake arm. I thought those were supposed to be good as they forced you to have the proper straddle cable angle.
I happen to like the triangular cable yokes- like the Avid Tri-Dangle. And it's fun to say "tri-dangle."
I assume you mean the one ended cable that you would route the brake cable through and to the clamp on the brake arm. I thought those were supposed to be good as they forced you to have the proper straddle cable angle.
I happen to like the triangular cable yokes- like the Avid Tri-Dangle. And it's fun to say "tri-dangle."
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I would disagree there- I've got one bike with 960s- I did change them out- but only as a stylistic change- for the XC Pro (manufactured by DiaCompe) brakes.
That being said, I've got 3 bikes with the first version Deore XT cantis (BR-MC70), two with Scott/Mathauser and one with Kool Stop pads. They're great brakes, and wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone.
That being said, I've got 3 bikes with the first version Deore XT cantis (BR-MC70), two with Scott/Mathauser and one with Kool Stop pads. They're great brakes, and wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone.
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Same here...
I assume you mean the one ended cable that you would route the brake cable through and to the clamp on the brake arm. I thought those were supposed to be good as they forced you to have the proper straddle cable angle.
I happen to like the triangular cable yokes- like the Avid Tri-Dangle. And it's fun to say "tri-dangle."
I assume you mean the one ended cable that you would route the brake cable through and to the clamp on the brake arm. I thought those were supposed to be good as they forced you to have the proper straddle cable angle.
I happen to like the triangular cable yokes- like the Avid Tri-Dangle. And it's fun to say "tri-dangle."
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another example
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The not what to use types:
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Fiddly. But still good. Try lots of different angles to see what works. My Trek 620 is set up with a pretty funky looking high angle and it works well.
If you're into C&V life, it's worth building a bike up with cantilevers so you can be in the know. Five of my 18 bikes run cantis, only one has V brakes.
If you're into C&V life, it's worth building a bike up with cantilevers so you can be in the know. Five of my 18 bikes run cantis, only one has V brakes.
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I haven't used those fixed straddle cable doohickeys.
Another thing I've never used- the Suntour Power Hanger
I got two of them in a box of goodies. I'm tempted to try one out- just for curiosity.
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I like the old late 80's, early 90's wide mounted Shimano stuff over most others, I like the modern Tektro 720's quite a bit as well. TEKTRO BRAKE SYSTEMS
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Anyways, here's another long forgotten. The SHIMANO ADAMAS AX II brakes from the early 1980's. It has it all going on ~ center mount, cam action, semi cantilever.
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OK, I just ordered a set of Dia Compe 980 brakes on ebay. Hopefully I won't have too much trouble setting them up.
I appreciate the suggestions to try Shimano brakes, but I'm putting together a bike with '70s Suntour components and don't feel that Deore would look quite right.
I appreciate the suggestions to try Shimano brakes, but I'm putting together a bike with '70s Suntour components and don't feel that Deore would look quite right.
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I guess I never said why. It's that one side is just wire and the other is actually tubing. The brake wire is fed through that tubing. It was meant so that the wire length to the center fake stratle thing was even. However when you brake, the brake wire sort of micro crushes the tubing side and doesn't get a good even pull.
All lot of this is official techno jargon obviously.
All lot of this is official techno jargon obviously.
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I respect convention as much as the next guy, but it seems to me that given the definition of "cantilever", both the traditional crossover-cable cantilever brakes and V-brakes are cantilever brakes. Talking about them in a way that invites the inference that they are distinct categories is confusing to outsiders who are trying to come up to speed, like me. In teaching folks about anything it helps a lot to have a coherent taxonomy. Correct me if I am wrong, but it seems to me that on the rim the two broad classes of brakes are caliper and cantilever, and all the variants in the last 50 years fall in one class or the other.
#48
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V-brakes are indeed a development from cantilevers, but they're treated as a separate category because they require different brake levers, hardware, cable routing, and brake pads - the only thing they share with cantilevers are the mounting studs where the arms attach to a frame/fork.
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