Upgrading Old Road Bike Help
10-23-15, 09:37 AM
#51
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Cheap solution that is also effective.
10-23-15, 12:05 PM
#52
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Putting modern design dual pivot brake caliper on an older bike (that has single pivot sidepull calipers) would considerably improve braking power, as would swapping to wheels with aluminum rims (if the current wheels have steel rims).
Swapping to a freewheel or cassette wheel with more speeds usually gets you more (smaller) steps between the same low and high gear. If you're riding in a group on a bike with STI brifters and constantly shifting to find the best gear ratio, that's an advantage. If you're riding a bike with downtube shifters on you own or with a few friends and don't shift frequently, not so big a deal. 7-8 speed drivetrains run longer without adjustment, and last longer with replacing parts than 9,10,11 speed drivetrains.
I'm not going to rehash the whole compact double vs triple crank debate. If you want to ride on hills occasionally, then consider switching to a conventional triple crank. When riding where there are few hills, you will use the middle and big rings, and when you're in the hills, you will have the small crankset ring to make it easier to peddle uphill. When changing cranksets, be aware that you usually have to change the bottom bracket as well to set/adjust the chainline.
When considering a change to a wider range of gears, also take into consideration that the derailleurs and chain may also need to be changed to handle the gear ratios.
As far as tubesets on old bikes that are more desirable, you need to do research when you find a bike you like to see whether the tubeset is considered to be above average or not. Look for bikes with labels saying they are made with Reynolds 531, or 753 or Columbus tubing SP or SL, Tange Prestige is also higher grade steel tubing, and Ishiwata makes some high quality cromoly tubing.
I don't see a lot of improve to be gained by changing brake levers.
Swapping to a freewheel or cassette wheel with more speeds usually gets you more (smaller) steps between the same low and high gear. If you're riding in a group on a bike with STI brifters and constantly shifting to find the best gear ratio, that's an advantage. If you're riding a bike with downtube shifters on you own or with a few friends and don't shift frequently, not so big a deal. 7-8 speed drivetrains run longer without adjustment, and last longer with replacing parts than 9,10,11 speed drivetrains.
I'm not going to rehash the whole compact double vs triple crank debate. If you want to ride on hills occasionally, then consider switching to a conventional triple crank. When riding where there are few hills, you will use the middle and big rings, and when you're in the hills, you will have the small crankset ring to make it easier to peddle uphill. When changing cranksets, be aware that you usually have to change the bottom bracket as well to set/adjust the chainline.
When considering a change to a wider range of gears, also take into consideration that the derailleurs and chain may also need to be changed to handle the gear ratios.
As far as tubesets on old bikes that are more desirable, you need to do research when you find a bike you like to see whether the tubeset is considered to be above average or not. Look for bikes with labels saying they are made with Reynolds 531, or 753 or Columbus tubing SP or SL, Tange Prestige is also higher grade steel tubing, and Ishiwata makes some high quality cromoly tubing.
I don't see a lot of improve to be gained by changing brake levers.
.
10-23-15, 12:08 PM
#53
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Hey again,
I hate to keep being a naysayer, but to your specific questions on racks. If i recall, this frame does not have the brazeons for racks, or the eyelets in the rear triangle. this could be problematic. while there are mounting kits and racks available for this, my experience has been that unless you mount the rack directly to the frame, it is only a matter of time before it squeaks, shakes, and falls off. (or you get used to tightening everything every time you stop.) Perhaps I am crappy mechanic and you won't have these issues. also worth considering is what you will be carrying, how far, and over what type of terrain. if you are just going to use it to carry some books ad your lunch around campus, then go for it. if you actually want to do some touring with it, you might reevaluate your plan. good luck!
I hate to keep being a naysayer, but to your specific questions on racks. If i recall, this frame does not have the brazeons for racks, or the eyelets in the rear triangle. this could be problematic. while there are mounting kits and racks available for this, my experience has been that unless you mount the rack directly to the frame, it is only a matter of time before it squeaks, shakes, and falls off. (or you get used to tightening everything every time you stop.) Perhaps I am crappy mechanic and you won't have these issues. also worth considering is what you will be carrying, how far, and over what type of terrain. if you are just going to use it to carry some books ad your lunch around campus, then go for it. if you actually want to do some touring with it, you might reevaluate your plan. good luck!
. I was looking at the bike and saw what looks like dropout eyelets, but I didn't see a seatstay eyelet or anything. Are there racks that would use dropout eyelets and then have a clamp to the seatpost or anything like that for a third point of contact?I am mainly going to be using it for going to/from campus, and will be trying to do some weekend trips when I have the chance to visit home with my dad.
10-23-15, 12:09 PM
#54
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10-23-15, 12:11 PM
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In that case, you definitely don't need a 10+ -speed cassette wheel. Keep your current wheelset; upgrade the freewheel only if you feel like you're missing some range, either on the top or the bottom. There are lots of good 7-speed freewheels to be had, with cogs as small as 11t or as big as 34t, usually for less than $30 (and super-simple setup, especially if you stick with friction shifters). If you've still got an '80s chain on there, a modern 7/8-speed chain will make a big difference (also cheap).
To be honest, if I were building this bike up as a commuter, I'd leave the drivetrain alone and put my money/time into moustache bars and either bar-end shifters or thumb shifters. Grant Petersen would approve.
And yeah, p-clamps work fine for the rack. You'll often find them in the electrical section at the hardware store.
To be honest, if I were building this bike up as a commuter, I'd leave the drivetrain alone and put my money/time into moustache bars and either bar-end shifters or thumb shifters. Grant Petersen would approve.
And yeah, p-clamps work fine for the rack. You'll often find them in the electrical section at the hardware store.
Should I keep an eye out for a better steel/aluminum vintage frame to spec out and use for commuting/weekend trips? I believe I can keep the bike inside one of my lab spaces on campus so it shouldn't be outside unless I am riding it or am stopped at a store quickly (mostly use my car for this though).
10-23-15, 09:33 PM
#56
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If you're interested in racks and fenders, you'd probably be better off starting out with a frame that has the eyelets that you will need.
I don't remember you stating what size frame you're looking for, but there's a 54cm Trek 520 (touring frame & fork with bosses for canti brakes) that's kinda ugly that been for sale on the LA CL at an asking price of $40 or $50 for months. If I remember correctly, there are some components included with it. the paint is rough, but there doesn't appear to be any rust I could see from the photos.
I don't remember you stating what size frame you're looking for, but there's a 54cm Trek 520 (touring frame & fork with bosses for canti brakes) that's kinda ugly that been for sale on the LA CL at an asking price of $40 or $50 for months. If I remember correctly, there are some components included with it. the paint is rough, but there doesn't appear to be any rust I could see from the photos.
10-23-15, 09:47 PM
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I am actually thinking about visiting my dad on some weekends when I get the chance to do some weekend trips (they live near the Tahoe National Forest). I figure the extra gears will come in handy with some of the more hilly terrain I would encounter there. Would a 2x10 work fine for something like this?
Should I keep an eye out for a better steel/aluminum vintage frame to spec out and use for commuting/weekend trips? I believe I can keep the bike inside one of my lab spaces on campus so it shouldn't be outside unless I am riding it or am stopped at a store quickly (mostly use my car for this though).
Last edited by brianinc-ville; 10-23-15 at 09:51 PM.
10-23-15, 10:41 PM
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Keep in mind that it's not the number of cogs that determines the gear ratio; it's the number of teeth on the cogs. In a set of 10 cogs on a cassette hub, the biggest cog could be as small as 21 teeth or as big as 36 teeth, but 28t is pretty standard for a road setup. The same range is available on a 7-speed freewheel. Obviously, the number of teeth on the chainrings matters, too. Have you found Sheldon Brown's gear calculator yet? It's endlessly entertaining. My advice would be to calculate the gear inches for each combination in the drivetrain as it's currently set up, ride it around whatever hills you can find near Davis, then decide how much lower you'd want it for Tahoe. Use the gear calculator to figure out what combination of chainrings and cogs will give you what you want. Personally, for big climbs in the Sierra, I'd want a triple crankset with a 30t-or-smaller granny gear; you might be able to achieve an acceptable low-end ratio with a modern "compact" double crankset with a 34t inside ring, but that also might mean you'd need a new front derailleur (of course, a triple crankset definitely requires a long-cage rear derailleur).
I dunno. Again, if you're not planning on racing or serious club riding, there's no real point in moving to a 10-speed rear wheel. The larger number of cogs allows you to have small steps between gears, which makes for faster, smoother shifts in racing conditions. But if you're not racing, you won't care. You've got a nice bike there; it ought to do everything you want it to do. I'd say, just put the rack and fenders on it, ride it around town for a while, maybe take it up to your dad's for a test ride, then decide if you need different ratios.
I dunno. Again, if you're not planning on racing or serious club riding, there's no real point in moving to a 10-speed rear wheel. The larger number of cogs allows you to have small steps between gears, which makes for faster, smoother shifts in racing conditions. But if you're not racing, you won't care. You've got a nice bike there; it ought to do everything you want it to do. I'd say, just put the rack and fenders on it, ride it around town for a while, maybe take it up to your dad's for a test ride, then decide if you need different ratios.
+1 Put some miles on it as is. Put the rack on it with P-clamps - they work fine. I'm 64 and made it around Lake Tahoe 2x10 - 39/27. You are younger & stronger, it's totally doable. If it's a struggle change up accordingly. Put that fine bike on the road and see how it works for you.
Last edited by peugeot mongrel; 10-23-15 at 10:48 PM.
10-24-15, 01:41 AM
#59
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Hey!
well, based on the experience of the more experienced, I guess you can make an aftermarket rack setup work without problems. I was probably not setting my rack up perfectly and then overloading it. Just go for it and see what happens. In the end you will be better off for having tried it yourself and have real experience with something than listening to somebody like me! Good luck, and have fun!
well, based on the experience of the more experienced, I guess you can make an aftermarket rack setup work without problems. I was probably not setting my rack up perfectly and then overloading it. Just go for it and see what happens. In the end you will be better off for having tried it yourself and have real experience with something than listening to somebody like me! Good luck, and have fun!
10-24-15, 03:29 AM
#60
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https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...croshift+group
doesnt have to be expensive. This is a cheap microshift "group". I have never tried them though.
My builds have always been cheap, I am an opportunistic builder, I build with what comes along cheap! Using used parts. All but one of my briftered builds come in at under $100. Don't let naysayers put you off doing it, on the other hand don't strip your bike until you have what you need to build. Flea markets are great sources as is Craigslist. Be prepared to jump on deals if they are cheap, sort it out later. The first three photos are the under $100 builds as seen
doesnt have to be expensive. This is a cheap microshift "group". I have never tried them though.
My builds have always been cheap, I am an opportunistic builder, I build with what comes along cheap! Using used parts. All but one of my briftered builds come in at under $100. Don't let naysayers put you off doing it, on the other hand don't strip your bike until you have what you need to build. Flea markets are great sources as is Craigslist. Be prepared to jump on deals if they are cheap, sort it out later. The first three photos are the under $100 builds as seen
10-24-15, 05:50 AM
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+10! I'm amazed how the volume of owner-auctions for decent used parts have become a small part of the Ebay world, and the discounts for high-volume new parts are minimal, compared to list prices at Performance, REI, and Nashbar.
Those days are gone.
Those days are gone.
10-24-15, 09:56 AM
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If you are going to do the 2x10 route with downtube shifters, you can buy Shimano Dura Ace SL-7900 braze on index shifters. Since you figured out the downtube adaptor, this is a no brainer. The shifters will set you back around $90 at the most although you could find them for less if you look around hard enough.
Let us know how the build goes.
Dennis
Let us know how the build goes.
Dennis
10-24-15, 02:24 PM
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What do you guys think about a Bianchi Project 7? Recently picked up a 1993 without the drive train or wheels for $50. I think it has a 16" frame size. What height riders could use this? I couldn't tell if it was a road or mountain bike style frame.
10-24-15, 09:59 PM
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1993 Bianchi Project-7 - BikePedia
It's basically a hybrid with more of a mountain bike bias rather than street.
I have seen a few Project 7 bikes made into homegrown cross/gravel bikes.
A 16" frame is rather small. I would imagine the frame sized for someone up to about 5'6" of proportional inseam to height.
Dennis
10-26-15, 01:38 PM
#65
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Maybe keep an eye out for a different frame. My strongest recommendation would be to get the "10" out of your mind. For affordability and compatibility with the frame that you choose, don't change to a 10-speed rear. If the bike is already geared, then stick with the range already provided. For any 126mm spaced rear dropout, stick with 7-speed. You don't need 10.
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