Trek 620
10-31-15, 07:40 AM
#26
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As far as I'm aware of, no year of 620 came "stock" with bar end shifters. If yours has them, and they've been on a long time (or even from 'as new' from the shop) they're an "upgrade" to the stock shifters.
It seems almost odd that a shop wouldn't attempt to sell *something*
Again, it's a tight fit under that fork crown- if you want to use fenders- a switch to 700c will do you good.
Again, a lot of people have ridden Helicomatics thousands of miles with no issues. Just make sure you keep up with lubeing them heavily.
It seems almost odd that a shop wouldn't attempt to sell *something*
Again, it's a tight fit under that fork crown- if you want to use fenders- a switch to 700c will do you good.
Again, a lot of people have ridden Helicomatics thousands of miles with no issues. Just make sure you keep up with lubeing them heavily.
I like this c and v forum, learning a lot about the bikes from my youth and assumed my Trek came with bar ends stock because the bike had seen little use. One of the reasons this bicycle appeals to me was the Nishiki International I rode in high school, but the 620 is probably an upgrade over that.
Probably doesn't matter as c and v is more about enjoying the ride than having the latest stuff. My riding is not about shifting or having world class brakes...many of us really don't need them.
Lubing the heliomatic? Ok going to have to find out how, I am good with greasing bearings but I assume that oil may be involved?
Last edited by Duo; 10-31-15 at 08:18 AM.
10-31-15, 08:15 AM
#27
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thanks for the replies, have to agree that the 720 would be much better than the 620. My bike was just a happy encounter and a blessing from the Lord; at the time wasn't sure to even get it as I had a Fuji touring bike. Many of us really don't have the space for N plus one and this may be my last road bike. The bar ends are fine and I may just replace the rear wheel with a seven speed wheel eventually.
Lubing the heliomatic? Ok going to have to find out how, I am good with greasing bearings but I assume that oil may be involved?
Lubing the heliomatic? Ok going to have to find out how, I am good with greasing bearings but I assume that oil may be involved?
When you get into the Bike Forums thing- you get the sense that there's "better" out there. It's like anything in life- there's always "better". But when you have something that not only meets your needs, but fills you with happiness- it doesn't matter about anything else being "better."
You'll hear this a lot about Vintage Treks- even a low end Trek is about a mid level bike for other companies. Really, if you want "better," think about different hardware on the bike.
As as far as maintaining the Helicomatic, just make sure to grease the bearings often. If you don't have a Helicomatic freewheel remover tool, see if you can find one for cheap- otherwise, be VERY careful about removing it with a pliers or whatever. VERY careful.
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"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Last edited by The Golden Boy; 10-31-15 at 08:27 AM.
10-31-15, 08:16 AM
#28
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To get the rear even close, I needed to move the fender brace out in front of the bridge (which I don't like the look of), and as you can see the front is still not right. Granted mine is a 600 not a 620 but I expect the forks for the sidepull versions are the same. [Edit: missed that @Duo's was a canti fork - not sure if he'd have the same fender line issue]
Last edited by markk900; 10-31-15 at 08:22 AM.
10-31-15, 08:35 AM
#29
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are those Velo Orange fenders? I'm having the same problem in the front on my 620- where it's a real problem is that I have a front rack that doesn't allow the fender to go up like yours does- but that pushes the lower portion back...
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10-31-15, 08:38 AM
#30
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Yes they are, and to get it where I have I had to bend the mount that goes on the brake bolt so it would clear the bottom of the headset. The issue is twofold: a) not enough room (I see less than a mm left under the crown, which I can't use at this point), and b) the fork crown crowds the fender. I suspect to get the extra mm of rise I need to hammer the fenders to clear the inside lug points on the crown.
Don't even try to use the daruma (sp?) mount....I would have had to go with 24" tires to make that work!
Don't even try to use the daruma (sp?) mount....I would have had to go with 24" tires to make that work!
10-31-15, 09:04 AM
#31
The Drive Side is Within
My 25.5" 620 (1984) came to me as a frame, and I built it up as a sscx to try CX. It got nice comments, but the BB was just too low for the roots and well the whole idea was generally nuts. So it got bar ends and 126mm hub 27"s and has been my "beater" tourer/gravel/rain bike -- the minty Alyeska is my multi-day tourer.
SSCX Halloween costume:
27" CX tires
Here are some photos of touch ups I did to the chipped Imron
Here's my current 520 project, with 5500
I have experienced brake judder on the 620, but adjustments to cable lengths helped.
SSCX Halloween costume:
27" CX tires
Here are some photos of touch ups I did to the chipped Imron
Here's my current 520 project, with 5500
I have experienced brake judder on the 620, but adjustments to cable lengths helped.
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The bicycle, the bicycle surely, should always be the vehicle of novelists and poets. Christopher Morley
Last edited by Standalone; 10-31-15 at 05:30 PM.
10-31-15, 09:07 AM
#32
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Don't place so much weight on "much better than..." The 620- especially the cantilever equipped models are EXCELLENT bikes- regardless of anything. If I hadn't stumbled into my 720, my 620 would be my primary ride.
When you get into the Bike Forums thing- you get the sense that there's "better" out there. It's like anything in life- there's always "better". But when you have something that not only meets your needs, but fills you with happiness- it doesn't matter about anything else being "better."
You'll hear this a lot about Vintage Treks- even a low end Trek is about a mid level bike for other companies. Really, if you want "better," think about different hardware on the bike.
As as far as maintaining the Helicomatic, just make sure to grease the bearings often. If you don't have a Helicomatic freewheel remover tool, see if you can find one for cheap- otherwise, be VERY careful about removing it with a pliers or whatever. VERY careful.
When you get into the Bike Forums thing- you get the sense that there's "better" out there. It's like anything in life- there's always "better". But when you have something that not only meets your needs, but fills you with happiness- it doesn't matter about anything else being "better."
You'll hear this a lot about Vintage Treks- even a low end Trek is about a mid level bike for other companies. Really, if you want "better," think about different hardware on the bike.
As as far as maintaining the Helicomatic, just make sure to grease the bearings often. If you don't have a Helicomatic freewheel remover tool, see if you can find one for cheap- otherwise, be VERY careful about removing it with a pliers or whatever. VERY careful.
I may try to grease the bearings but it may be that a rag needs to be fitted around the nut holding the freewheel on and work gently. If that succeeds then maybe some grease or anti sieze on the threads would do to make removal simpler.
Agreed on happiness vs a better bike. My Fugi touring and 620 are over the top for me, I subscribe to the philosophy that it's not the bike but the engine, as long as the engine fits the bike.
Even with 700C getting a proper fender line is very very difficult....
To get the rear even close, I needed to move the fender brace out in front of the bridge (which I don't like the look of), and as you can see the front is still not right. Granted mine is a 600 not a 620 but I expect the forks for the sidepull versions are the same. [Edit: missed that @Duo's was a canti fork - not sure if he'd have the same fender line issue]
To get the rear even close, I needed to move the fender brace out in front of the bridge (which I don't like the look of), and as you can see the front is still not right. Granted mine is a 600 not a 620 but I expect the forks for the sidepull versions are the same. [Edit: missed that @Duo's was a canti fork - not sure if he'd have the same fender line issue]
Last edited by Duo; 10-31-15 at 09:52 AM.
10-31-15, 09:28 AM
#33
The Drive Side is Within
Now it wears some Suntour 3pulley, with a reverse fd-- nice for bar ends. I like the bio pace, just not the bio pace granny.
my touch-ups only lasted two years or so.....
my touch-ups only lasted two years or so.....
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The bicycle, the bicycle surely, should always be the vehicle of novelists and poets. Christopher Morley
The bicycle, the bicycle surely, should always be the vehicle of novelists and poets. Christopher Morley
Last edited by Standalone; 10-31-15 at 05:30 PM.
10-31-15, 02:13 PM
#34
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10-31-15, 03:26 PM
#35
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10-31-15, 07:55 PM
#36
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The XC 3 pulley is dominant.
I'm looking forward to hearing how my 3 Pulley fares on a 38t cogged freewheel.
I'm looking forward to hearing how my 3 Pulley fares on a 38t cogged freewheel.
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
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11-01-15, 08:32 AM
#37
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The Suntour XC 3 pulley Dominates!
BTW- protect that screening on the face with some sort of clear coat- that screening wears off really easily. I'm very surprised to see yours intact.
BTW- protect that screening on the face with some sort of clear coat- that screening wears off really easily. I'm very surprised to see yours intact.
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
11-01-15, 05:47 PM
#38
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So, I lied. The chainstay protector has 630 on it, not 628. Regardless, I like the bike and see it staying with me for a long time. It's amazing how nicely the panniers act as sails when they are empty....
11-02-15, 03:41 PM
#39
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11-02-15, 04:43 PM
#40
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Nice bike. I bought one too, but mine has bar ends stock. Been wondering what year the thing is, guessing maybe 1985 because of the lack of DT shifters, is there any easy way to know the year. This bike was only sold for about 3 years.
Mine was almost new and barely ridden, so mostly had to clean it up, put on a new comfy seat and tires. This bike seems to be even lighter than my 9 speed Fugi touring which is kind of surprising. Recreational riders really need to look at steel touring bikes mostly because of durability; I don't need fast, just something that works when it needs too.
Anyone know the years of these bikes?
thanks.
Mine was almost new and barely ridden, so mostly had to clean it up, put on a new comfy seat and tires. This bike seems to be even lighter than my 9 speed Fugi touring which is kind of surprising. Recreational riders really need to look at steel touring bikes mostly because of durability; I don't need fast, just something that works when it needs too.
Anyone know the years of these bikes?
thanks.
11-02-15, 08:10 PM
#42
The Drive Side is Within
Looks like it has plenty of room on mine. I bet it would handle 38.
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The bicycle, the bicycle surely, should always be the vehicle of novelists and poets. Christopher Morley
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11-02-15, 09:05 PM
#43
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I don't know if you saw my thread when I started my 3 pulley love affair. (now there's a good band name)
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...project-2.html
Which was spawned from this thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...erailleur.html
After I put the 3 pulley XC together, I figured I'd ride it for a few days- just to wear the novelty in and then go right back to the XC Pro. I rode my 720 with that XC derailleur for a few weeks- and lo and behold- I REALLY like that thing.
Right now, my XC is with Pastor Bob to try out a selection of huge freewheel cogs- While it's been gone, I was going through a selection of derailleurs; Duopar Titanium, Cyclone MII, V-GT Luxe, Mountech Mk II. I rode the Mountech for a while- I just changed back to the XC Pro today. But when that the XC comes back, I think it's going back on the 720!
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...project-2.html
Which was spawned from this thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...erailleur.html
After I put the 3 pulley XC together, I figured I'd ride it for a few days- just to wear the novelty in and then go right back to the XC Pro. I rode my 720 with that XC derailleur for a few weeks- and lo and behold- I REALLY like that thing.
Right now, my XC is with Pastor Bob to try out a selection of huge freewheel cogs- While it's been gone, I was going through a selection of derailleurs; Duopar Titanium, Cyclone MII, V-GT Luxe, Mountech Mk II. I rode the Mountech for a while- I just changed back to the XC Pro today. But when that the XC comes back, I think it's going back on the 720!
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
11-03-15, 07:15 AM
#44
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You can look it up here by serial no.
11-03-15, 08:08 AM
#45
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I know on some 1984 420s, the SN was on the downtube, by the front derailleur clamp. But everything else I've seen has been on the bottom bracket shell. My 78 Trek is across the shell, my 85 and 86 bikes are around the edge.
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"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
11-03-15, 08:18 AM
#46
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https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...l#post18290637
So, what does anyone know about Dia-Compe 510 brakes?
@robatsu posted these some years ago:
in this thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...akes-info.html
11-03-15, 09:46 AM
#47
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I know that they're very handsome.
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11-03-15, 07:32 PM
#48
Senior Member
I was looking at the vintage Trek site and the catalogue for 1983, and as far as I can tell, the 600 models all had the same frame, but different components. The 620 came with a triple crankset and a Blackburn rack, while the 630 had a double, and no rack even though it had braze ons for a rack on the seat stay.
Has anyone found a good match for the pewter Imron paint? The paint is in pretty good shape considering it is thirty-two years old, but it has a few scratches and chips.
Some people call these low trail as the trail is in the mid forties, others wold consider it mid trail. In any case, mine handles nicely with a front rack and bag.
Has anyone found a good match for the pewter Imron paint? The paint is in pretty good shape considering it is thirty-two years old, but it has a few scratches and chips.
Some people call these low trail as the trail is in the mid forties, others wold consider it mid trail. In any case, mine handles nicely with a front rack and bag.
11-27-15, 08:07 PM
#49
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Regarding fenders: I managed to get VO fenders on my '85 22.5" Trek 620 with stock 27" wheels. Toe overlap with the fender stay nub is alarming when I forget what I'm doing.
That frame is a touch small for me anyway. Now that I've paid too much for a 24" version, I'm mulling transferring the fenders to that.
That frame is a touch small for me anyway. Now that I've paid too much for a 24" version, I'm mulling transferring the fenders to that.
Last edited by bikor; 11-29-15 at 12:11 AM. Reason: attached image not showing anymore
11-28-15, 12:09 PM
#50
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FWIW, the 720 is all 531 tubing, the 620 is "only" 3 main tubes 531, forks and stays Tange or Ishiwata. And the 720 was fully hand-build in Waterloo WI, while the 620 used forks and rear triangle subassemblies from Japan. And the 720 had investment cast bottom bracket shell and fork crown, while the 620's were bulge-formed units.