LuckySquirrel

Hello!

Last night I purchased a Schwinn World Sport (I believe 1984 based on the front logo number; 2014). The owner was the second owner and had only changed the stem before and I am trying to identify what type it is. It is quite tall when straight, and has a pivot in the center. Just wondering to satiate my own curiosity.

Here is a pic:



Thanks!

LuckySquirrel

Sorry about the picture being so large. It was taken with my phone which has a pretty high resolution. Is there a recommended/quick way to scale the image down using Photobucket, etc. before uploading?

LesterOfPuppets

Dunno specifically what kind, but it looks like an adjustable stem that's had the extension put on backwards, and it looks like they then twisted the quill 180° from where it's supposed to be.

Clang

Whatever brand adjustable stem it is, it's on backwards. Tilting it down now is just going to bring the bars closer to the saddle.

LuckySquirrel

I thought it was on backwards, since it doesn't make any sense how it is currently configured. Thanks for confirming my suspicion! What do you mean by the quill being twisted 180 degrees? Sorry still learning these things .

LuckySquirrel

Thank you! Quick question; how difficult is it to remove the handlebars from the stem? Everything I read online makes it seem like this is just a few minute quick job, but after releasing the screw from the stem how does the handlebar slide out? Sorry for the noob question .

LuckySquirrel

Does this seem like the correct routing of cables? I am planning to redo the cables and housing but haven't tried it before (watched a few YouTube videos last night and read part of SB's article). I want to be able to copy the routing configuration and use the current housing as a template if it is correct.

LuckySquirrel

Hm...I tried to resize the photo to 50% using Photobucket's Editor and updated the post with the new link but it didn't seem to change it. Is the post still referencing the original photo somehow?

Edit: It worked! Just had a slight delay.

LesterOfPuppets

It depends. If there's another bolt just above the frame of this pic, then it's really easy to remove the bars from the stem, just loosen both bolts and pull the faceplate off the stem, then the bars are free.

If there's only the one bolt clamping the bar, then you'll have to remove the bar tape and brake lever from one side of the handlebars, loosen the bolt clamping the bar, then pull the bar through the stem.

It kinda looks like the stem has a removable 2-bolt faceplate, so it's likely the first scenario.

Pompiere

No, the cables are not routed correctly. The shifters should have the cable exiting toward the front of the bike. If you remove the shift cables and then remove the bolt in middle of the stem where it flexes, you can then rotate the stem around to face the front. Leave the shifters attached and they will end up in the correct orientation. Then reassemble the stem and rethread the cables and you're done.

LesterOfPuppets

Some people like the brake cables to go behind the handlebars. Housing looks a little short at that bar height, but with a more traditional stem configuration it might be long enough.

Something like this:



You'll want to disconnect the shifter cables prior to rotating the quill 180°. The shifters will be facing the right way after you rotate the quill. Their current position in front of the stem seems like it would be a tad awkward.

LesterOfPuppets

I imagine Davis has some good used parts bike shops. Might wanna pop in to a couple in search of a proper stem. Around here you can get SR-Sakae stems for $5-10.

Looks like Schwinn liked to run front cable in front of bars sometimes.

ramzilla

That's a jacked up adjustable stem. Something you would find on inexpensive cruisers or maybe some hybrids. Looks like it's dangerously extended past safe insertion line. Need to ditch that thing.

thumpism 

Take a close look at the shifters. They are installed backwards, as others have mentioned, but it appears that the left one (your left when on the bike) operates the front derailleur as the left shifter should do, even though this is the individual lever that should operate the rear. Someone really botched this install.

LuckySquirrel

Awesome, thanks for the info! This one has the 2-bolt faceplate but the one on my Bridgestone has only one bolt (will be working on that in a couple weeks).

LuckySquirrel

Looking at the bike, I think I understand what you mean! Would it be okay to just remove the shift cables, remove the handlebar from the stem, then turn it around and reassemble? Do I need to take the stem apart?

LuckySquirrel

Thanks for the pic! I plan to redo the cables/housing for the brakes and shifters so can make some adjustments at that time .

LuckySquirrel

Would it be better to keep it this way since it was the original configuration?

LuckySquirrel

I was hoping to take it apart, clean it up and flip it back around on the bike while putting it back down to a safe level and tightening it all up to see how it works. I plan to do a complete overhaul on the bike to practice my mechanic skills (hubs, BB, headset, cables/housing, brake pads, tubes/tires).

How can I check whether the tubes need to be changed? They're still holding air just fine. The front tire looks okay but the back tire looks like it is threading near the rim, so I was planning on just replacing both tires.

When cleaning the rims, should I just clean them with some diluted Simple Green and then use alcohol to wipe the rim wall to get rid of the degreaser? Is that an acceptable method?

LuckySquirrel

Just played around with it and you are definitely right. I have a Venzo mechanic stand coming in on Tuesday along with some tools and will be taking it apart to clean and overhaul everything.

Link to stand for reference: https://www.amazon.com/Venzo-Mechanic...mechanic+stand

It seems like the rear brake is stuck in a closed position. I opened it up a bit but will definitely need to replace the cables/housing and add some lubricant to the pivot of the brake to make it work better. Should I be worried about any damage to the spring? Are springs for brakes something that can be purchased and replaced? I'm assuming that it was still only elastically deformed so there shouldn't be any plastic deformation, but just want to see what everyone thinks.

thumpism 

The brake should have two nuts on its front that are double-nutted together. They might be tightened down too much. Try backing them off a touch to see if the brake operates more smoothly. The spring on a brake is remarkably flexible and can be re-bent if you need more tension. Springs for a given brake are more likely to be found in a shop's or collector's scrounge box than available new. Check your nearest shop first. Good luck!

LuckySquirrel

I will definitely do that, thank you! I have some tri-flow lubricant that I was planning to add to the pivot. Is this good to do?

thumpism 

Lube never hurts, except on your brake pads.

LuckySquirrel

Here is an update to this bike since I know everyone likes pictures .

I ended up learning a ton about bike mechanics on this project! Had a lot of fun (and some frustrations) while working on this, but it was a great learning experience.

I ended up overhauling the hubs, BB, and headset. Replaced the rim tape, tubes, and tires. Put on a new chain, cables/housing, brake pads, bar tape, and seat. Went to the local bike co-op in Davis (very helpful and knowledgeable people), and fixed a slightly bent rear dropout and rear derailleur hanger as well as replaced that stem. Unfortunately, the bike was slightly large for me so I ended up selling it to another student, but am looking forward to fixing up my BS next!

And for the pics!

CMC SanDiego

That stem/shifter configuration is much better. It looks like you did a great job! That's a campus bike that someone will get some good use out of.