Finished My Paint Project Miyata 912
#1
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Finished My Paint Project Miyata 912
Well after a long fight with my first paint job, I have finished the project. I have learned a great deal from my mistakes and the fixes. I have painted the frame two times and the fork only took three tries to get it almost right but I no longer have time to try for perfection. The build is a parts bin mix that was thrown together out of necessity as I was without a bike after selling off my collection recently. I am happy with the results. Not bad for a rattle can. I plan to do some things over the winter. I am not sure if I will add decals or ride her stealth mode? I would like to get a nicer set of wheels, maybe tubular, but defiantly need new tires.
1981 Miyata 912:
1981 Miyata 912:
Likes For Steve Whitlatch:
#2
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Looks pretty darn good for a rattle can paint job/parts bin build up. Nice work. Bummer about the collection. Hope all is well.
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My bikes: '81 Trek 957, '83 Trek 720, '85 Trek 500, '85 Trek 770,'81 Merckx, '85 Centurion Cinelli, '85 Raleigh Portage, '92 RB-2, '09 Bianchi
My bikes: '81 Trek 957, '83 Trek 720, '85 Trek 500, '85 Trek 770,
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#5
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I have the 600 Arabesque brakes and levers to match the crankset and derailleurs but the calipers won`t fit the frame and the levers have no hoods. From the reviews on Arabesque posted here I am probably better off with the Dura Ace, Dia Compe set up I am running. The combo is very good. It may end up having Suntour Cyclone derailleurs by Spring.
So far the bike rides very good. I have to weigh the bike but it feels like a 22 to 23 pound bike.
So far the bike rides very good. I have to weigh the bike but it feels like a 22 to 23 pound bike.
#8
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Thank you. Yes it is a bit large for me but still fits well. I usually ride a 60 cm frame. This is 62 cm. I can just stand over the top tube with a millimeter to spare. If I ever stop and my feet are in a divot , I will be in pain.
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#11
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Yes I did use Rustoleum Primer and Clear Coat as well. Time will tell I guess? If I had a do over I would use a better clear coat though. My biggest problems came from the clear coating.
#12
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Looks great, nice job!
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Try using Eastwood's 2K Clear Coat next time. It's a bit more expensive but OH so worth it! I've used those Rustoleum cans before and really hated them. Neat design but mine all leaked out of the trigger getting paint all over me and dripping on my project. I've yet to find a rattle can I can really say I think works well yet after painting about a dozen bikes. I wish Eastwood made more colors.
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Nice work on the lug lining also, did you use a paint pen?
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Just got back from a 20 mile shakedown ride. Headset started acting up on me. I adjusted it just before i left because it felt to tight and was a bit too tight. It spun smooth again. 10 miles into the ride and it started hanging up again in the straight on position. Everything else held together. I may need a new headset.
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Looks terrific!
Good to know and will try the Eastwood clear.
I really like the 2X Rust-O-leum. For a rattlecan, it atomizes decent and ability to work angles and inverted. Speaking of experience from application to use on kids bikes, this stuff is durable. No primer needed. Nor do I bother to strip the orginal finish all the way raw. If the original paint is partially holding, leave it on. Just prep sand everything smooth to a final 320 grit. Attach an accessory trigger grip to the can. The 2X paint has excellent pigment.
The key to a good cure is TIME. One might be in a rush to build but if patient, let it alone for 90 days or whatever. Do a 'very' light 320 scuff for the clear to adhere. Then graphics, then clear. That last part on the Rust-O-leum clear is the tricky part, especially laying it down on tubing. I don't like the Rust-O product in clearcoat. I much prefer an HVLP spray with commercial brand two-part urethane, either PPG or even Gemini. But if not readily available or set-up, that Eastwood clear might be the easy solution.
Try using Eastwood's 2K Clear Coat next time. It's a bit more expensive but OH so worth it! I've used those Rustoleum cans before and really hated them. Neat design but mine all leaked out of the trigger getting paint all over me and dripping on my project. I've yet to find a rattle can I can really say I think works well yet after painting about a dozen bikes. I wish Eastwood made more colors.
I really like the 2X Rust-O-leum. For a rattlecan, it atomizes decent and ability to work angles and inverted. Speaking of experience from application to use on kids bikes, this stuff is durable. No primer needed. Nor do I bother to strip the orginal finish all the way raw. If the original paint is partially holding, leave it on. Just prep sand everything smooth to a final 320 grit. Attach an accessory trigger grip to the can. The 2X paint has excellent pigment.
The key to a good cure is TIME. One might be in a rush to build but if patient, let it alone for 90 days or whatever. Do a 'very' light 320 scuff for the clear to adhere. Then graphics, then clear. That last part on the Rust-O-leum clear is the tricky part, especially laying it down on tubing. I don't like the Rust-O product in clearcoat. I much prefer an HVLP spray with commercial brand two-part urethane, either PPG or even Gemini. But if not readily available or set-up, that Eastwood clear might be the easy solution.
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The Eastwood 2K Clearcoat is a 2 part urethane. You have to press a button on the bottom of the can to mix the two parts then the can will last for about 24 hours before its no longer useable. Takes about 2-4 hours cure time before you can handle it including starting to install parts. I would die if I had to wait 90 days until the paint was ready to be handled.
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Try using Eastwood's 2K Clear Coat next time. It's a bit more expensive but OH so worth it! I've used those Rustoleum cans before and really hated them. Neat design but mine all leaked out of the trigger getting paint all over me and dripping on my project. I've yet to find a rattle can I can really say I think works well yet after painting about a dozen bikes. I wish Eastwood made more colors.
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The Eastwood 2K Clearcoat is a 2 part urethane. You have to press a button on the bottom of the can to mix the two parts then the can will last for about 24 hours before its no longer useable. Takes about 2-4 hours cure time before you can handle it including starting to install parts. I would die if I had to wait 90 days until the paint was ready to be handled.
About the comment regarding 90 days, one could easily handle the fresh painted finish same day but if you give it time, the curing seems to be hardened. Still would need to lightly sand any flashing and for the clear to adhere.
BTW: I've used the Gemini 2 part urethane and where I could touch the surface within 15 min.. Amazing stuff. To achieve depth, need multiple sanding prep and re-coats.