New steel bikes?
#26
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A hand made, lugged American frame starts at around $1800. I'm on the waiting list for an Elephant NFE, a TIG frame for about $1400, a steal, IMO.
It's going to be tough to keep under $2500 unless you have a decent parts bin, you have a local co-op that you can buy used parts from for cheap, you build your own wheels, or you really compromise on the parts.
On the bright side, if you find a frame you really like, it should last for decades, and you can upgrade the parts.
Edit: re-reading your question, why not get a vintage steel frame? Post your size, many of us have high quality, vintage steel frames that could be parted with. Alternatively, lots of opinions on CL and fleabag sales to be had for the asking...
It's going to be tough to keep under $2500 unless you have a decent parts bin, you have a local co-op that you can buy used parts from for cheap, you build your own wheels, or you really compromise on the parts.
On the bright side, if you find a frame you really like, it should last for decades, and you can upgrade the parts.
Edit: re-reading your question, why not get a vintage steel frame? Post your size, many of us have high quality, vintage steel frames that could be parted with. Alternatively, lots of opinions on CL and fleabag sales to be had for the asking...
#27
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Just to be clear, the $984 Ben's Milwaukee Road frameset in post 24 is available as a complete bike with SRAM Rival for $2506 ($984 plus $1,522).
MKE Road SRAM Rival Build Groupo Add-On | Ben's Cycle
MKE Road SRAM Rival Build Groupo Add-On | Ben's Cycle
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Curtlo Cycles - Custom Road
Custom road frame = $990. True Temper Ox Platinum.
Looks like with the Veloce build kit would come in about $2500.
Not sure his lead time.
Custom road frame = $990. True Temper Ox Platinum.
Looks like with the Veloce build kit would come in about $2500.
Not sure his lead time.
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I could personally recommend Jon Tallerico - but his frames are in the $1700 range, so a full bike would top $2500 probably. Jon was most excellent to work with.
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Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
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Last edited by Wildwood; 11-14-15 at 11:58 PM.
#35
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In terms of the joint strength and frame longevity, both properly brazed lugged and TIG welded joints are more than adequate; the tubing will likely fail before the joint. The aesthetic is different, and some prefer the appearance of lugs while others like the clean look of a TIG joint done by an experienced welder.
Before the development of air-hardening steel tubing, the high temperatures required for TIG welding could compromise the strength of the steel alloys used, especially if it was heat treated. With the advent of air-hardening alloys, though, the heat from the welding actually increases the strength of the tubing.
It could be argued that the weight of lugs makes lugged frames slightly heavier, but typically the butting at the ends of tubing drawn for TIG welding has slightly thicker walls than the butts of tubing drawn for lugs, so in reality there isn't much difference in weight.
Before the development of air-hardening steel tubing, the high temperatures required for TIG welding could compromise the strength of the steel alloys used, especially if it was heat treated. With the advent of air-hardening alloys, though, the heat from the welding actually increases the strength of the tubing.
It could be argued that the weight of lugs makes lugged frames slightly heavier, but typically the butting at the ends of tubing drawn for TIG welding has slightly thicker walls than the butts of tubing drawn for lugs, so in reality there isn't much difference in weight.
#37
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https://www.adrenalinebikes.com/stor...roductid=78992
https://www.adrenalinebikes.com/stor...oductid=173233
https://www.adrenalinebikes.com/stor...oductid=127974
https://www.adrenalinebikes.com/stor...oductid=132634
I just had a Gunnar build done and really like the bike.
https://www.adrenalinebikes.com/stor...oductid=173233
https://www.adrenalinebikes.com/stor...oductid=127974
https://www.adrenalinebikes.com/stor...oductid=132634
I just had a Gunnar build done and really like the bike.
#38
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#40
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Stanyan is out, it's not listed in the 2015-2016 merry sales catalog. We have an early model (when the name was different) at the shop with campy veloce 9 speed, good campy wheels, and a brooks saddle for 2k. I built my smoothie for about $900, but I had a shop discount. You could probably meet that price with judicious shopping though. There's a builder in Cincinnatti that has fillet brazed frames for about $1900, no fork, no group, just the frame, and that's the best deal in the area.
#41
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Why did they drop the Stanyan? Very nice bike! There are still some out there.
Adrenalin Bikes seem to have some.
Adrenaline Bikes
I'd go with silver Ritchey Classic post, stem and bars.
Adrenalin Bikes seem to have some.
Adrenaline Bikes
I'd go with silver Ritchey Classic post, stem and bars.
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#42
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I built up a new Torelli Columbus Zona frame, new Torelli wheelset and like new Campy bits this past Spring. I'm very happy with the plush ride.
Super Strada
https://www.adrenalinebikes.com/stor...oductid=142567
Super Strada
https://www.adrenalinebikes.com/stor...oductid=142567
#43
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I've got an old 1984 model Trek 520. It's a great bike. Trek is still making them. Looks like a good value for the price.
520 - Trek Bicycle
520 - Trek Bicycle
#44
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#45
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Not all modern steel frames are created equal. My gf had a beautiful Colnago Master Light steel frame from 2011 that cost a tick over $6000(!), and managed to crease the top tube with her carbon sole shoe during a 0 mph tipover at a stoplight with slippery sand in the road toward the end of the ride. Carbon bike mfr's will guarantee a frame to the original buyer, but Colnago doesn't guarantee their modern steel.
It was beautiful and very light--about as light as modern carbon frames. When the top tube crumpled, we discovered that the tubing was less than .3 mm thick.
I know that doesn't pertain to every modern steel bike in this thread, but every time I see the thread title come up, I flinch a little.
Just to have the top tube replaced & repainted was at least $1600, so I talked her into spending less than 1/3 of that on a used frame--a 1984 Masi Gran Corsa. We just cold-set the rear end out to 130, bolted all her Dura Ace 7900 bits to it, and she's ridden it over 5000 happy miles since then. This old Masi is about two pounds heavier, but she's had worse accidents (including a broken arm & dislocated shoulder when a car pulled into the bike lane and slammed on her brakes) and the Masi is still tracking truer than gospel.
It was beautiful and very light--about as light as modern carbon frames. When the top tube crumpled, we discovered that the tubing was less than .3 mm thick.
I know that doesn't pertain to every modern steel bike in this thread, but every time I see the thread title come up, I flinch a little.
Just to have the top tube replaced & repainted was at least $1600, so I talked her into spending less than 1/3 of that on a used frame--a 1984 Masi Gran Corsa. We just cold-set the rear end out to 130, bolted all her Dura Ace 7900 bits to it, and she's ridden it over 5000 happy miles since then. This old Masi is about two pounds heavier, but she's had worse accidents (including a broken arm & dislocated shoulder when a car pulled into the bike lane and slammed on her brakes) and the Masi is still tracking truer than gospel.
Last edited by calamarichris; 11-15-15 at 04:38 PM.
#46
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I am holding out for an All City Space Horse - with Disc brakes.
They do not make it yet.
I (or perhaps the LBS) will do a build of Ultegra, instead of Tiagra, with the bar end shifters in the place of brifters.
One thing I am, is very patient......
If it comes to fruition, it will likely be the last bike I buy.
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