Bikerider007

Is there any fast way to get there? Should I not be doing this on vintage parts? I saw a video of a guy polishing fresh cut aluminum bit by bit. Sandpaper, more sandpaper, 0000 steel wool. Buffer and paste.....

I tried on a Cinelli 1a and was pleased with the outcome, but it was a good two hour project, those little curves and corners are tough to get to. I'll post my pictures after a while but am dreading the few other pieces I want to shine.

big chainring 

Did you remove the anodizing from the stem?

Dull aluminum is making a comeback.

Bikerider007

You know, I felt like there was coating but thought it was kind of like plastic. I have removed before on BMX parts but did not even think of this. Is the best way like over cleaner or is there something better?

I will limit to some that have surface scratches and my track bike that I am trying to make stand out.

RobbieTunes

Bench grinder after hand-sanding, then steel wool, then chrome polish (I like Blue Magic) Depends if you want a mirror finish or not. Since it's aluminum, it will haze over in time for a satin look.

I suggest looking up khatfull and polishing and look at his posts on the subject.

eschlwc

yeah, a stem would take hours to polish if still anodized.

i just use the private label brand oven cleaner, 'cause i'm cheap like that.

then file, 600 grit, and mother's.

rootboy 

"Bench grinder"!???

"File" ??.???

Jeezum, you guys.

I think I know what you meant.

What are the other parts? If they are nice, and maybe valuable, I personally would leave them anodized.
I like the look, especially older Campy parts. And older Cinelli 1A stems.
But if the finish is compromised, that's another matter.

I just finished a pair of Super Record levers. Yet they were scratched up. A bring back from the dead resto.
Took me forever, but I was trying to teach myself proper technique on my two buffers, as I've rarely used them.
A lot of work. More than I figured. But a good learning experience.
There are no short cuts.

Looking forward to your pics.

Lazyass

I polished an entire group last week. Disassembled the Dia Compe calipers and everything. In my stainless steel sink I wetsanded every part with 400, 800, 1000 then 2000 grade (some smaller brake parts I just used 2000). Then I polished it with Brasso. That didn't give me the chrome look I wanted so I bought some Blue Magic polish. It almost is magic, the results were amazing.

Before, the post was scratched to hell:



After. It looks even better in person, almost chrome looking:

rootboy 

That's interesting, Lazyass. From here, at least on my monitor, it looks almost satin. I like it.
You say it has a mirror finish? That's kind of odd as it is not showing up for me.
Just curious. Looks great,regardless.

eschlwc

i have two metal files. one has a rounded side, which comes in really handy. the other has four different textures, ranging from very harsh to smooth. both speed the process of removing road rash from aluminum, on stems and seatposts especially.

i can't imagine removing the zigzags from seatposts without my files. i can also resize seatposts a few tenths of millimeters.

i then move on to 600 grit and mother's.

Lazyass

It's the lighting, I'm not the best photographer. It looks almost chrome. This one is a little better.

hillcountry

On aluminum, I usually use 0000 steel wool and Mothers Mag Wheel Polish. The buff with a flannel or terry cloth. Usually works well. A bench top buffer with the proper compound will really make them shine.

skidder

^^^^ This ^^^^

Use a bench-top buffer with a fabric buffing wheel with some jewelry polish on it and it should shine it up really nice. Try some compound like jewelers rouge of similar on the wheel. Look on the internet and you should be able to find a compound that works for aluminum (or steel) parts. I just prefer a nice cleaning, then just call the scratches and abrasions the badges of honor from many happy years (and miles) of riding.

carbomb

Whether they become more satin over time or not... they look good polished up!

I enjoy doing this to middle range parts the most. Not special enough to worry about messing them up, good enough to look fantastic when given a deeper shine.

Bikerider007

I will check that out, I am trying to get some time cut off on these parts.

Yea it was anodized apparently , I thought it was dull, weird thing is they shine up fairly good with just basic mothers polish.


This is a cinelli 1a but was not is use so I thought I would experiment, the other part is a fairly rare Nitto stem with panto'd lines but it is so dull even after polishing and I will keep it forever, and it will just look soooo good. Another part I have to do is the SR laprade as lazyass did, on my wifes bike. It scratched and just way dull to begin with. Beyond that I will see.

Here is a standard 1a with mothers polish vs the 1a I did and polished. The pista bars are pretty shiny themselves vs. regular Cinelli Campione and it still outshines them. You can see little spots I have to finish up but thought my hands were gonna fall off. I started with like 800, 1000, 0000 wool, 2000, polish/paste. And was ready to pass out.

Lazyass

Eh, you don't need to buy a bench buffer or anything crazy. Just some sandpaper, Blue Magic and elbow grease.

Lazyass

I don't like Mothers. When I lived in NJ I had a BMW M3 with polished HRE wheels ($1000ea). The acid rain up there put brutal water spots on them. I tried a few different polishes, including Mothers and nothing worked until I bought some Noxin and that took them right off. I couldn't find any Noxin down here so I got BM and I think it's just as good.

Spaghetti Legs 

This forum continues to amaze me with timely thread topics. I am today just starting my first polishing project. I have a few parts that I want to pretty up, so I'm practicing first on a a beat up Cinelli 1R. The top side of it was completely scuffed up as if a sanding job was started and then stopped after about 10 minutes. Unfortunately I didn't take a before pic but this is after about 30+ minutes of working the whole thing over with 320. I started with 1000 but it didn't do anything to the stuff that was already there. Once I got going I worked till the whole stem had the same finish appearance, so I assume I was taking off the anodizing. If I stopped now the stem looks 200% better than the start. I plan to go 1000, 2000, +/- steel wool, then Mothers. I'll post pics after the next steps but it might be a few days.



I did read the old thread on polishing. It seems at least so far that Blue Magic is favored over Mothers. If I have a part that I want to shine up without any big scratches, would steel wool plus polish of choice give a good shine? If I remember correctly Mothers won't do much on an anodized part, how about Blue Magic?

Thanks for all the info?

momo608

https://www.eastwood.com/images/pdf/1...over_quart.pdf

WARNING: Eastwood Anodize Remover is
an aggressive cleaning solution and may stain
or damage clothing, and work surfaces. Keep
Eastwood Anodize Remover away from strong
oxidizers and strong acids. Be sure to work
in a well ventilated area and wear appropriate
clothing. Wear an effective NIOSH approved
dust/mist respirator if particle mists area created
as in spraying. Wear protective gloves like our
Nitrile (43098 M, L, XL) to protect hands. Wear
eye protection like our (13123) Face Shield or
(43090) Goggles, to prevent splash or mist from
entering eyes.

Bikerider007

0000 steel wool on a standard part should be fine. The easiest thing that will remove the anodized process is lye (which oven cleaner has) or something like the product mentioned above, which in turn has the same thing as oven cleaner (sodium hydroxide-lye/caustic soda).

A couple things that may help, I found the 0000 wool was creating scratches after the 2000, so I flipped that in the step. And I'm sure the final polish plays a part whether it's mothers or BluMagic, but once I did the 2000 and polished, it looked like chrome (2nd pic you can see my reflection and black phone in the stem ) so it probably won't get much better but may hold a shine longer with the Blumagic. BTW, during the process I could not really tell how good it was going, so I stopped and polished here and there and could really see the progress. I don't know if it was due to the dirty water (wet sanded each step except steel wool) or the fact I accidently got grease on stuff, but once I polished it was beautiful.

I am pleased, but was just so time consuming. Hopefully it's easier for you, if you come up with any short cuts let me know.

edit: I did not start off with a really rough sand paper as I was concerned I would remove the Cinelli logo.

Lazyass

I wouldn't bother with steel wool. That would probably scratch it back up. 1000 then 2000 then BM is good enough, it would make your stem gleam. Trust me, you would have to see it in person. If I could have found 3000 I would have used that as well but I doubt it would have made a difference. 2000 is so fine you can hardly feel it.

rootboy 

"I wouldn't bother with steel wool. That would probably scratch it back up"

I agree with this. I think even 4/0 steel wool is too aggressive for the final steps.
FWIW, try picking up some Scotch-Brite pads. In maroon, gray and white.

Lazyass

Here's an old post I've had forever. Spent less that 10 minutes on it, most of the work was getting the scratches out with the 400 grit. And the bottom part was in worse shape, obviously.

bwilli88 

As an old Shop teacher when you are sanding wood always sand with the grain. When you are sanding metals always sand in the same direction with any particular grit then when you change grits sand at 90degrees to the last grit. Doing this will show you when you have sanded out all of the prior grits scratches.

Lazyass

Don't mind all the pics. I got a nice camera for Christmas and have been going picture crazy lately.

TickDoc

here's a seat post I polished a while back using a lathe and some polishing compound. I left the post semi-polished, and I think it turned out ok.

The real trick is, how do you polish crank arms without removing the decals?



halfway there:



done. only took about 20 min: