Peter Mooney: getting it ready for the road, new acquisition
#1
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Peter Mooney: getting it ready for the road, new acquisition
I just acquired this bike yesterday. Started looking it over to see what needs to be done to get it on the road. I wasn't surprised to find the seat somewhat stuck. I used a little WD 40 to loosen the seatpost. When I removed it the seatpost got some nice zig zag scraps on it. I greased up the seatpost and tried to re-insert it. It doesn't seem to want to go back in. In my experience, when you start forcing something, you are probably doing it wrong and will cause more damage. So, the seatpost is Campy, it appears original to the group set. It is marked 27.2. I don't know the specs on this bike. Could this be the wrong size for the tubes of this era? Or is there some other issue? Sorry for the self-indulgent photos. I am very excited about this new find. I added a bunch of photos to share this new ride with those that are interested in Peter Mooney.
If you have any ideas on the seatpost, please share.
Also, I added a photo of some etching on the crank arm; there are numbers etched there. Any idea what they mean?
Thanks.
If you have any ideas on the seatpost, please share.
Also, I added a photo of some etching on the crank arm; there are numbers etched there. Any idea what they mean?
Thanks.
#2
Senior Member
The clamp area looks compressed, might need to be spread gently. Clean any burrs inside when done.
PS. You have a right to be excited!
Etchings look like owner vandalism
PS. You have a right to be excited!
Etchings look like owner vandalism
Last edited by 3speedslow; 01-24-16 at 02:27 PM. Reason: Adding
#4
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Engraving is part of a Social Security number, back in the day this was an anti-theft and theft recovery thing. You may find it on other components as you clean it up.
Congrats on your Mooney. Lifetime level acquisition.
Congrats on your Mooney. Lifetime level acquisition.
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#5
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Mooneys are wonderful bicycles, as I'm sure you know. Both of mine are 27.2 and reynolds 531...I agree with earlier post, have it gently spread and maybe lightly hone the seattube to remove crap and grime. I'd be shocked if you can't easily address this.
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Lovely bike. A PM is on my short list. Last one I was after Mr. KAS hit BIN before I had the spousal clearance (drat).
#7
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When you say, "gently spread", how does one go about doing that?
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Start with a little wine.
Seriously though find a tool to place lower down in the slot in the seat tube and gently spread. A thin small screwdriver is what I use with hand force twisting. Should open it up just fine. Touch it up a little afterward if the paint goes, and should be OK.
Seriously though find a tool to place lower down in the slot in the seat tube and gently spread. A thin small screwdriver is what I use with hand force twisting. Should open it up just fine. Touch it up a little afterward if the paint goes, and should be OK.
Last edited by Chrome Molly; 01-24-16 at 05:18 PM.
#9
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I would hit the mechanics sub forum for a full read on the many techniques.
But cutting a hardwood dowell length ways and using a wedge will work. Insert the dowels into the post then use the wedge to push the two sides EVENLY apart. Stop and check when you see progress.
Good luck.
But cutting a hardwood dowell length ways and using a wedge will work. Insert the dowels into the post then use the wedge to push the two sides EVENLY apart. Stop and check when you see progress.
Good luck.
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Start with a little wine.
Seriously though find a tool to place lower down in the slot in the seat tube and gently spread. A thin small screwdriver is what I use with hand force twisting. Should open it up just fine. Touch it up a little afterward if the paint goes, and should be OK.
Seriously though find a tool to place lower down in the slot in the seat tube and gently spread. A thin small screwdriver is what I use with hand force twisting. Should open it up just fine. Touch it up a little afterward if the paint goes, and should be OK.
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The Mooney I am thinking of is in southern Minnesota.
The owner hasn't put it on the market, but I have seen it.
It's sweet.
Likely a smidge small for me, but might be right for you.
Next time I chat with him I'll ask just for grins.
The owner hasn't put it on the market, but I have seen it.
It's sweet.
Likely a smidge small for me, but might be right for you.
Next time I chat with him I'll ask just for grins.
#15
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#16
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Thanks for all the responses. If there is bit of metal, a burr, whatever you call it.....use a file? I think I have a cylindrical wire brush. Maybe that will work better.
#17
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I love this bike. The stars were aligned on this. Its a 56cm, the wheels are 36hole, its US made, high quality steel and the group set is nearly complete. Just what I was looking for. I wish I had been more patient. I bought a couple bikes early in the months: each had a bunch of issues. Thing is, you never know when a dream is going to come up in your hunt.
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Yeah, what year is it? Peter Mooneys are keepers. Mine is no longer my best bike at anything; the result of a decision I made quite deliberately when I ordered it. It is truly an 'all-arounder". Fit, steering and BB height to ride aggressively. Long chainstays for panniers and load. Enough clearance for 27" wheels, big tires and fenders. Cantilever brakes set midway between 700c and 27". (Originally Mafac, the only choice of that era.) Nervex lugs just because my Fuji Pro, a bike I loved, had Japanese Nervex copies.
This bike had one reason for existence. I needed a ride that could keep me sane. This was after my head injury and final year of racing. My racing bike no longer had any place in my life. I did not know where my search for work to get back into my profession would lead me, but almost certainly a coast. The bike had to be ride-able 12 months a year in the states of Maine, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York and the West Coast. Also feel and fit like a racing bike.
The bike never saw the East Coast. 700c was always readily available and it has never seen anything else. (1979 in rural Maine? 27" might have been a good decision.) It has: ridden down a paved 1/2 Mt Washington hill (Alba Road outside Santa Cruz (except paved and low altitude) in a winter storm and rivers of water crossing the road (thank you cantis), gone up Mt Diablo many times (starting from Alameda Island) and come down the next morning a couple of times and several epic rides. It kept me sane. Done its job and well.
Now it wears 32c tires. Racks front and rear. It's mostly a farmers market bike. I am thinking about a repaint. Also using it as a touring bike. It rides loaded really well.
Ben
This bike had one reason for existence. I needed a ride that could keep me sane. This was after my head injury and final year of racing. My racing bike no longer had any place in my life. I did not know where my search for work to get back into my profession would lead me, but almost certainly a coast. The bike had to be ride-able 12 months a year in the states of Maine, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York and the West Coast. Also feel and fit like a racing bike.
The bike never saw the East Coast. 700c was always readily available and it has never seen anything else. (1979 in rural Maine? 27" might have been a good decision.) It has: ridden down a paved 1/2 Mt Washington hill (Alba Road outside Santa Cruz (except paved and low altitude) in a winter storm and rivers of water crossing the road (thank you cantis), gone up Mt Diablo many times (starting from Alameda Island) and come down the next morning a couple of times and several epic rides. It kept me sane. Done its job and well.
Now it wears 32c tires. Racks front and rear. It's mostly a farmers market bike. I am thinking about a repaint. Also using it as a touring bike. It rides loaded really well.
Ben
#20
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Should this turn into a show your mooney thread?
OPs Mooney looks late 70s/early 80s to me - very similar to mine actually.
OPs Mooney looks late 70s/early 80s to me - very similar to mine actually.
#21
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I still have to build that frame up - I have the bits, but life got busy/hectic.
#23
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I have a suggestion for spreading that seat tube.
It's called a plumb bob. Solid brass. Local hardware or big box home depot type place.
The brass is actually quite soft. I found that a shim helped me get it right. ymmv, but I think this is much better than prying the wedge.
This solution worked for me.
Cheers!
It's called a plumb bob. Solid brass. Local hardware or big box home depot type place.
The brass is actually quite soft. I found that a shim helped me get it right. ymmv, but I think this is much better than prying the wedge.
This solution worked for me.
Cheers!
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1959 Hilton Wrigley Connoisseur (my favorite!)
1963 Hetchins Mountain King
1971 Gitane Tour de France (original owner)
* 1971 Gitane Super Corsa (crashed)
* rebuilt as upright cruiser
1971 Gitane Super Corsa #2 (sweet replacement)
1980 Ritchey Road Touring (The Grail Bike)
1982 Tom Ritchey Everest
(replacing stolen 1981 TR Everest custom)
1982 Tom Ritchey McKinley (touring pickup truck)
1985 ALAN Record (Glued & Screwed. A gift.)
#24
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Thread Starter
Funny thing...today I went out for a ride and I was thinking about what I needed to buy to get the Mooney set up: Campy derailleur cables, new tubular tires etc. I realized ....I think I met Peter Mooney about 20 years ago at Wheelworks in Belmont MA. I say a photo of him on the web....and I thought, hey I met that guy years ago. At the time I had zero knowledge of frame makers.
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Hi,
I always use 2 small screw drivers, using one as a block and the other one is used to spread/pry one side open....then move to the opposite side.
I have found using only one can deform the side you are prying against.
you could also go to the LBS and use the tool they have to measure seat tubes, it is conical and if used gently can also open the tube...just be careful not to jamb it in too tight as it can easily become stuck.
JM2C's Ben
I always use 2 small screw drivers, using one as a block and the other one is used to spread/pry one side open....then move to the opposite side.
I have found using only one can deform the side you are prying against.
you could also go to the LBS and use the tool they have to measure seat tubes, it is conical and if used gently can also open the tube...just be careful not to jamb it in too tight as it can easily become stuck.
JM2C's Ben
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Voice recognition may sometimes create odd spelling and grammatical errors