Wet Paint or Powder Coat?
#1
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Wet Paint or Powder Coat?
So I know how much the peeps on this site love painting old bikes. . . .
I have two very paint challenged old bikes with some developing rust issues, a 1983 Trek 720 and a 1978 Trek TX900.
Wet paint is expensive; the price I've been quoted is right around $300. That's from Yellow Jersey; based on a review of one of the posters here, they do good work.
Powder coat from Groody Bros (and I've seen their work) is pretty darn nice for a little over a 1/3 of that price.
I like the 2 bikes a lot and plan to ride the heck out of them. Would you get them powder coated or use a wet paint?
I'm leaning towards the powder coat. Any pros, cons?
I have two very paint challenged old bikes with some developing rust issues, a 1983 Trek 720 and a 1978 Trek TX900.
Wet paint is expensive; the price I've been quoted is right around $300. That's from Yellow Jersey; based on a review of one of the posters here, they do good work.
Powder coat from Groody Bros (and I've seen their work) is pretty darn nice for a little over a 1/3 of that price.
I like the 2 bikes a lot and plan to ride the heck out of them. Would you get them powder coated or use a wet paint?
I'm leaning towards the powder coat. Any pros, cons?
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I was quoted $400 for wet paint for a bike i'm working on from a local guy --- thats to strip the remaining old paint, - spray it with pearlized white, - replace the decals , then clear coat
I'd do it with powder if i could get pearlescent powder, but i havent found any - and i would still need to clear over the decals --- but i was contemplating sending it to Spectrum powder works
For a hard use rider? -- i'd definitely go for powder
I'd do it with powder if i could get pearlescent powder, but i havent found any - and i would still need to clear over the decals --- but i was contemplating sending it to Spectrum powder works
For a hard use rider? -- i'd definitely go for powder
#3
Banned
Yea Catalized wet paint Lie Imron is a Pro job , but so Is Powder coat ..
DIY rattle can with a UV cure and Making your Own UV light box May Cost As Much..
DIY rattle can with a UV cure and Making your Own UV light box May Cost As Much..
#4
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I like powder coat, but I paint my own for less than powder coating.
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Semper fi
Semper fi
#5
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Powder is "greener", less expensive, not as pretty and is rumored to be prone to rusting underneath. Wet looks nicer, costs up the wazoo and is toxic as all get out (before it dries). Personally I'd go with a good powder job these days unless I was restoring something very old and special (not that I'll ever have to worry about THAT).
SP
OC, OR
SP
OC, OR
#6
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I prefer wet paint in general over powder coating. The key thing to remember when dealing with either is you get what you pay for. Don't hire a hack.
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#7
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I just had a '69 Gitane Tour de France powdercoated for about $165. Stripping and one color. I'd suggest talking to the coater in detail about masking and mil thickness. I got exactly what I wanted, but you have to be specific. I was very satisfied.
#8
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Powder coat is generally "off the gun" finish and is never going to look as sleek as wet paint that's been properly applied. Also, I don't really think it looks period authentic, if that matters to you. That said it can look pretty good.
It might be worthwhile to ask a local body shop if they'd squirt your frames with car 2k stuff. If you can strip, prep, primer and sand yourself, it might be pretty cheap. 90% of painting is prep.
Your bikes are pretty fancy vintage road machines. I'd strongly favor wet paint for them.
It might be worthwhile to ask a local body shop if they'd squirt your frames with car 2k stuff. If you can strip, prep, primer and sand yourself, it might be pretty cheap. 90% of painting is prep.
Your bikes are pretty fancy vintage road machines. I'd strongly favor wet paint for them.
Last edited by Salamandrine; 01-28-16 at 06:07 PM.
#9
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Ah, the eternal question. I think this pops up once a year, unfortunately the forum search function sucks (and yes I know the google trick)...
For looks, you get what you pay for.
For durability, powder coat uber alles.
For cost, rattle can.
For looks, you get what you pay for.
For durability, powder coat uber alles.
For cost, rattle can.
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TIG or fillet frame...powder. Lugged frame...wet paint.
If cash is strapped and you want durable paint. Powder. I paid 120 for two colors and that included stripping and he soaks the frame in a solution to clean the inside also. He also does wet paint also but I ride mainly the back road heres so it's 85% gravel.
If cash is strapped and you want durable paint. Powder. I paid 120 for two colors and that included stripping and he soaks the frame in a solution to clean the inside also. He also does wet paint also but I ride mainly the back road heres so it's 85% gravel.
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depends on the bike.... I am looking at some point redoing my rattle can job on my nishiki with powder. This is my utility commuter and gets beat up....the rattle can job I did is really looking bad....but I think of that as theft deterrent.
If had a nice frame, with really hosed up paint I would probably go paint......more colors, looks deeper, does not mask details of lugs.
DIY rattle can is not that cheap (at least the way I did it)
DiY auto paint is more expensive and more toxic.
If had a nice frame, with really hosed up paint I would probably go paint......more colors, looks deeper, does not mask details of lugs.
DIY rattle can is not that cheap (at least the way I did it)
DiY auto paint is more expensive and more toxic.
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#12
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It can be, but then it's not very durable.
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Treks are not known for fragile paint. Not knowing your length of ownership and where they se failing, keep in mind that powdercoat due to the process thins out at any sharp edge, the thin film thickness there can fail.
Probably faster than a wet application paint.
Probably faster than a wet application paint.
#14
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Try one of each :-)
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IMO both of those bikes deserve wet paint done well. Do one this year and one next if that's what the fun budget allows.
Was the $300 yellow jersey price with graphics? One color or two?
Was the $300 yellow jersey price with graphics? One color or two?
#16
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Powder coat is only as durable as the prep work put into it. Poorly done, its no more durable than a rattle can paint job. It can still be chipped, and will still peel right off if you get moisture under it from chips that aren't sealed in a timely manner.
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#17
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Yellow Jersey charges $300 for one color (stripping included). No graphics for that price.
#19
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I've been really pleased with the powder coat I had done locally on my TREK 560. I spent $105 at a shop in Grand Rapids,
detailed it with a Testors paint pen and it has been a pleasure for the past five years.
Marc
detailed it with a Testors paint pen and it has been a pleasure for the past five years.
Marc
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I have never did either...but...would think it depends on the purpose...if you are going for a "full restore" type look, then wet paint. But...if it is to stop rusting, make the bikes more as riders and not quite as "full resto"...then go for the powder. As others have said, I would think that, whichever way you decide...get a "good" one to do the work! and...of course...before and after pictures...
#21
Keener splendor
If you're willing to send them to Groody, go powder. They know exactly what they are doing. You can get both done for the cost of one at Yellow Jersey.
Once you're on the bike, you'll never know the difference.
Edit: You can probably tell Groody exactly what color you want. Flip through the Prismatic Powders website: Prismatic Powders If Prismatic doesn't have an example, google image search the color, and many images will come up. Some are bikes, but a lot of people get their car rims done.
Once you're on the bike, you'll never know the difference.
Edit: You can probably tell Groody exactly what color you want. Flip through the Prismatic Powders website: Prismatic Powders If Prismatic doesn't have an example, google image search the color, and many images will come up. Some are bikes, but a lot of people get their car rims done.
#22
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Why isn't this a poll?
I know $300 isn't as rich as a lot of fancy finishers charge. I also agree with the sentiment that these are nice bikes that deserve a good finish. But they aren't all that rare. The way I would look at it, you could spend $300 refinishing the frame, then find a complete bike the next week for less than that. So I would probably go with powder.
I know $300 isn't as rich as a lot of fancy finishers charge. I also agree with the sentiment that these are nice bikes that deserve a good finish. But they aren't all that rare. The way I would look at it, you could spend $300 refinishing the frame, then find a complete bike the next week for less than that. So I would probably go with powder.
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We use Bruce Risely at The Color Factory in Waretown NJ & we stick with wet over powder when it comes to paint. We just sent up a Kirk Magnesium MTB frame and a Schwinn Varsity to have redone. I like the work they do and I can't get it done any cheaper even if I do it myself, I plan on having my Dawes Super Galaxy done by them & maybe the Trek 460 I picked up.
Glenn
Glenn
Last edited by Glennfordx4; 01-29-16 at 12:43 PM.
#24
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Why isn't this a poll?
I know $300 isn't as rich as a lot of fancy finishers charge. I also agree with the sentiment that these are nice bikes that deserve a good finish. But they aren't all that rare. The way I would look at it, you could spend $300 refinishing the frame, then find a complete bike the next week for less than that. So I would probably go with powder.
I know $300 isn't as rich as a lot of fancy finishers charge. I also agree with the sentiment that these are nice bikes that deserve a good finish. But they aren't all that rare. The way I would look at it, you could spend $300 refinishing the frame, then find a complete bike the next week for less than that. So I would probably go with powder.
You make a fair point regarding the cost of finishing though. In general the cost of refinishing a a vintage bike properly will often not make economic sense. IOW, the value of the bike as is plus the cost of the refin will exceed the current market value. But, if you simply want to ride a nice shiny bike, and view this whole vintage bike thing as a fun hobby, it's not that expensive compared to say sports cars.
#25
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If you find a 1983 Trek 720 or a 1978 Trek TX900. Those were top tier bikes.
You make a fair point regarding the cost of finishing though. In general the cost of refinishing a a vintage bike properly will often not make economic sense. IOW, the value of the bike as is plus the cost of the refin will exceed the current market value. But, if you simply want to ride a nice shiny bike, and view this whole vintage bike thing as a fun hobby, it's not that expensive compared to say sports cars.
You make a fair point regarding the cost of finishing though. In general the cost of refinishing a a vintage bike properly will often not make economic sense. IOW, the value of the bike as is plus the cost of the refin will exceed the current market value. But, if you simply want to ride a nice shiny bike, and view this whole vintage bike thing as a fun hobby, it's not that expensive compared to say sports cars.
And yes, those are both very nice bikes, and no doubt worthy of whatever decision the OP makes.