7up

Hi everyone,
I recently purchased 2 px-10s off of craigslist.The first one I purchased off a gentleman who acquired it in an auction a few years back and grew tired of it.Me being hasty couldn't wait to get my mits on it.I purchased the bike for $240 after I test rode it.The bike felt great considering it was two or three sizes too big lol!When I got it home I realized after a more thorough look I had a few problems.Me being the biggest one in that the bike isn't totally French or original.It has Tourney front and back derailleurs,700c G40 6 speed wheel set ,seat,seat post and bar-stem which is from a UO8.It kinda bothered me that the bike didn't have what I considered PX-10 bits.So I Purchased the right bits on eBay.I found my second PX10 while looking for parts and purchased it for $200.The bike is my size and is all original.The original owner rode it a few times and put it away never to ride it again.He than gave it to his 65 year old friend recently.The second brief owner scared himself after he rode the bike and said it was too too fast for him and sold it to me a month later.Only problem this bike has is a 2 gashes in the paint where the front derailleur mounts to the bottom seat tube.So my first PX10 goes to my nephew after I build it back up with those French replacement bits and my second one I'm gonna give it alot of TLC.Here is a few pictures I want share with everyone.

Falcon3

Sounds like a great couple of projects! Good luck and cant' wait to see pictures.

7up

As you can see the bike is original.Probably 72'-74'. Besides all of the normal things to be done to put this bike back into shape is the problem with these two gashes in the paint on the lower half of the seat tube.I do not want to molest this bike in anyway but to preserve it the best way possible.I would like to use a method that I've seen on YouTube.(Yes I'm cringing) It's explained that the affected surface should be built up a layer at a time with paint.It should be set out to dry between layers.It should be built up slightly higher than the normal surface and then very carefully massaged with the finest grade of sand paper and then polished.What does everyone think of that so far?

Classtime 

Nice bike at a very nice price. You could glue some of that fine sandpaper onto popsicle sticks so as not to mess with the surrounding surface and yes yes yes let it dry for a long long time between coats. It is probably not nice outside so you have time. Post more pictures please.

Salamandrine 

FWIW the current Rustoleum 'professional' grade is quite hard when cured, probably harder than the original enamel paint used on those. They key to oil enamel is giving it time to cure. It reacts with the air. Let it sit at least a week before sanding level, and a month before polishing it out.

Hit that bare spot with a bit of primer first, after cleaning off the rust/oxidation. You'll probably be best off with a small artists brush. I'd suggest feathering in the damaged area with a bit of ~320 grit before you paint.

Also, watch the stem height. It looks like it is raised too high. Those stems are already prone to breaking. Either lower it or replace.

7up

@ Falcon3 - Thank you for the good luck and kind words.

@Classtime - The use of Popsicle sticks are a great idea.I could maybe cut a few Popsicle sticks down half the thickness for better control when sanding.

@ Salamandrine - More good points to consider and follow.I also learned what type of paint to use and a time line to use as a guide.I would have figured two days! Lol could you just imagine my frustration not getting decent results? Wow! Also thanks for the keen observation of the stem height.

So far I've been taking the bike apart and one casualty is a cracked front derailleur.

John E

The crankset is a low-end substitute for the original Stronglight.
Front derailleur is not original, either.
The frame is a classic, and of course that's what really counts. A little touchup paint, and no one will be the wiser, particularly since the gouges are down so low. Nice score!

eschlwc

my '73 pr10 had a similar, huge, ugly, plastic cable guide on the down tube near the bb shell. i replaced it with a pretty campy aluminum one.

7up

@ John E - Yes great observation.I also have the other px-10 with the same crankset.These must be those crank sets that they used for substitutes for the strong lights. I purchased a stronglight 42/52 as well as super lj derailleurs. What's your honest opinion of this combo? Thanks in advance.

@ eschlwc - Yes Ive never seen this type of cable guide with plastic.Im definitely gonna see what I can get my mits on lol.

7up

Update on what I've found so far. On further inspection of both PX-10's I have found further evidence that both have Schwinn LeTour 170 mm crank-arms stamped made in Japan.Also 39t stamped on the smaller crank gear.Can I safely assume that the bigger crank gear is a 49t?lol

7up

Another Update. Noticed some rust on the bottom bracket as well as the bottom of the steering tube.I know I'm gonna have to treat the inside tubes with that great rust preventative.My question is really about getting the stains off the paint.Would my fellow BF members think that the rust stains would come out with some elbow grease and then finish it off with polish to get the residual discoloration? Here are some more pictures.Note the wooden dowel that they used back then.Both PX-10s have this.

John E

I did not count teeth, but that outer ring is almost definitely a 52T, which was the default size for many years. (Rant: I detest cranks whose outer chainring cannot be changed or replaced.) Schwinn was enamored with 52-39, even though 52-40 provides better ratios with the extremely common 14-17-20-24-28 cog block.

Yes, I would definitely prefer a Stronglight crank, which would also of course be more appropriate on a Peugeot. 52-42 was a very popular road combination, and it provides a decent set of ratios with either a 14-16-18-21-24 five-speed cogset or either a 13-15-17-20-23-26 or a 14-16-18-21-24-28 six-speed.

7up

@ John E - Thank you For your response.I have in my possession a 52/42 strong light crank I will be using on this build.I noticed that this crank has a problem when rotating it.It hits a dry spot and is met with a very minuscule of resistance.Either water got in or the grease is dried out.

greg3rd48 

@7up Have you started your build yet? I also picked up a PX10 that I plan on working on soon and hopefully rideable by May-June.

7up

@greg3rd48 I will start the build soon.I have a slight setback with filling in the gashes with paint on the downtube that were left behind from the previous owner.I cleaned up the frame and can't wait to start putting it back together.All the parts are ready to install asap.��

greg3rd48 

@7up What method did you use? I have some scratches like that to address also...

7up

There were a few ways I've found on you tube.The one I like the best is to fill in the gash by filling it in with layers of paint and letting it dry over a period of time between coats depending on weather/climate and moisture in the air.Then when you have enough coats built up take very fine sandpaper and sand carefully blending the layers even with the original.There are a few more steps before and after.Im gonna have to brush up on the steps before venturing further.

greg3rd48 

How is the build going? I hope to get to work on mine once it gets colder and we have a few days of bad weather.

7up

That's a great looking sandwich lol. I actually forgot about the PX-10 after two fill ins with paint.Time to give it another coat.I was able to get the grease out of the paint on the bottom bracket and around the forks.That reminds me I have to get a set of tube type stickers for the down tube and forks.

greg3rd48 

@7up Has the build progressed at all? My PX10 build should be complete in the next few weeks... Hopefully.

Dboyle

Recommend that you remove the wood dowel and inspect the inside of the steerer tube. I had a frame with the wood dowel. Removed the dowel for refinishing and found extensive rust. The wood absorbed water and then held it against the tube. If ok you can always reinstall the dowel.