Nitto Noodle
#1
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Nitto Noodle
Mornin' all-
I am deciding whether to change my original equipment handlebars on my 1973 LeJeune TDF to Nitto Noodle handlebars......I am sure my bike is setup correctly for me. I do notice my hands tend to get numb a little as the ride continues......The Nitto "blue sky" leads me to believe that the extra width and flat bar top will help alleviate that numbness. I'm striving to keep the bike in as original condition as possible, but also wish to make the ride as comfortable as possible. The only change from original this far has been to,change out the Delrin Prestige shifters for all metal Simplex Criterium shifters. Much crisper shifting as a result. I have cleaned/lubed the prestige shifters and put them away for safekeeping. I obviously would do the same with the original handlebars. Probably won't do,this for a while, but it is on the radar. I don't know if the original Pivo stem is the right diameter to accept the Noodle. I also don't know if it is a quill stem or threaded? May have to end up buying a Tallus stem as well if the original stem is a quill......
Thanks guys
I am deciding whether to change my original equipment handlebars on my 1973 LeJeune TDF to Nitto Noodle handlebars......I am sure my bike is setup correctly for me. I do notice my hands tend to get numb a little as the ride continues......The Nitto "blue sky" leads me to believe that the extra width and flat bar top will help alleviate that numbness. I'm striving to keep the bike in as original condition as possible, but also wish to make the ride as comfortable as possible. The only change from original this far has been to,change out the Delrin Prestige shifters for all metal Simplex Criterium shifters. Much crisper shifting as a result. I have cleaned/lubed the prestige shifters and put them away for safekeeping. I obviously would do the same with the original handlebars. Probably won't do,this for a while, but it is on the radar. I don't know if the original Pivo stem is the right diameter to accept the Noodle. I also don't know if it is a quill stem or threaded? May have to end up buying a Tallus stem as well if the original stem is a quill......
Thanks guys
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I run a noodle on 85 t700 find it very comfortable. It is a 26 sized bar though so you probably need another stem. The one I ride is pretty wide at 48cm, fine for me but maybe a little twitchy for some.
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Noodles allow you to ride the tops of the bars comfortably so you can get used to multiple hand positions. Mixing it up and using padded gloves is how I try to avoid numb hands.
#5
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I like noodles but I doubt they are the proper diameter for the French stem. The stem you have is most likely a 22.0 threaded stem.
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The Noodle is probably the most comfortable "traditional look" handlebar out there in my broad shouldered opinion. However, like shoes and saddles, what's wonderful for some is torture for others.
Consider me a heretic, but I'd recommend you get a quill adapter, sand it down to 22.0 and experiment with various threadless stems until you find the rise and reach that works best for you, especially given that French stems are few and far between.
Consider me a heretic, but I'd recommend you get a quill adapter, sand it down to 22.0 and experiment with various threadless stems until you find the rise and reach that works best for you, especially given that French stems are few and far between.
#7
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I love the Noodle, mine is either a 46 or 48 cm so wide, really really wide. I've ridden it on my '92 Bianchi and it makes for a very stable, planted feel when bombing down hills and on rough pavement. I've also ridden it on a Cross-Check touring in India and Central America and it makes a bike easier to control on rough surfaces. Like wide bars (+short stems) on mountain bikes, the handling is also quicker while actually easier to control than narrow bars. Sounds like a contradiction, but it works.
They're wide, but so are my shoulders so they fit. I'd choose accordingly but try wider than normal to see if you like it.
The tops are wide, flat and swept back a bit which I like. Nice flat ramp in front of the hoods which is comfy for riding the hoods, or slightly behind for slacking. Drops are deepish and round so they look right and have options.
They're wide, but so are my shoulders so they fit. I'd choose accordingly but try wider than normal to see if you like it.
The tops are wide, flat and swept back a bit which I like. Nice flat ramp in front of the hoods which is comfy for riding the hoods, or slightly behind for slacking. Drops are deepish and round so they look right and have options.
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Ye Gods, to someone whose stated preference to keep things original as possible, that's heresy alright. I hope our OP hasn't fainted.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
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#10
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I also fit Pertronix electronic ignitions to old cars I tinker on as well. Life's too short to gap points or repeatedly wrap handlebars.
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As it turns out my stem is 22mm and the place where the handlebars are mounted is 25mm. Imdon't know if those measurements will work for the Nitto talla stem or if it is possible to just add the noodle bars to the original Pivo stem? I don't know if the Pivo is threaded or a quill. I also don't know if a quill can used instead of a threaded......aaaahhhhh: questions questions questions! Always looking for more ways to spend money on this bike.....lol
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Yikes @Lascauxcaveman that is exactly what i said in prior posts for sure! My hands are getting numb however. I thought the Nitto bars might help that.....The bike is original right down to the handlebar plugs that hold the wrap on. I do want to be as faithful as possible. Maybe I should just revert and ride it until things break and then make necessary changes. The bike is a great ride and turns heads everywhere it shows up. Thanks,for the cold water splash! Hee hee hee
#13
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As it turns out my stem is 22mm and the place where the handlebars are mounted is 25mm. Imdon't know if those measurements will work for the Nitto talla stem or if it is possible to just add the noodle bars to the original Pivo stem? I don't know if the Pivo is threaded or a quill. I also don't know if a quill can used instead of a threaded......aaaahhhhh: questions questions questions! Always looking for more ways to spend money on this bike.....lol
Original plugs are good, but I hope it's not the original tape too?? You may want to try some padded tape and/or new gloves first, if you haven't already. Maybe play around with the handlebar tilt and lever position a bit. Sometimes small changes can make a big difference.
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I love my noodle.... sounds weird. I have a 44cm one and the extra width makes it much less twitchy and provides a lot more room on top for me to rest my hands. The flat ramp is fantastic too. I don't have wide shoulders, but the 44cm one is very comfortable. It's definitely a handlebar that I'd swap stems around in order to use.
#15
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Point of clarification: a quill stem is used with a threaded fork; the stem itself isn't threaded other than the bolts.
Your Pivo is a quill stem, and unless you change forks or use an adapter, that is what you need.
Your Pivo is a quill stem, and unless you change forks or use an adapter, that is what you need.
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I would assume that if my stem is 22mm that it would be relatively easy to shim to 22.2 mm, and also my Pivo bar clamp is 25 mm. Wouldn't it be easy to whim to 26 mm to make work for the handlebars if I didn't want to switch the Pivo out unless it was absolutely necessary?
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Unless you have good health insurance and don't care for your teeth, don't do that.
Read this, please: gitaneusa.com :: View topic - death stem?
Read this, please: gitaneusa.com :: View topic - death stem?
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God forbid- it is actually the original white handlebar tape that came with the bike I'm quite sure. It is still in usable shape......as in I'm still using it and it isn't deteriorating one iota......so should I change it out for something more modern?.......and other than moving the seat back a little more perhaps, or rearranging the the handlebar angle a little one way or the other.....I'm flummoxed as to how to work on this hand numbness....I would rather not change the bar system, but at my age I'm quite interested in comfort also....once again, any suggestions greatly appreciated.......because as the "caveman"reminded me: I would like to " keep it as original as possible."
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1) Thicker, softer gloves
2) Thicker, softer bar tape (wrap thick, soft foam "cork" tape right over what you have. maybe two layers? Three?)
3) bar/stem change + 1) & 2)
I was on a group ride yesterday (about 4 hours in the saddle) and my hands started to get numb towards the end. Riding no-hands from time to time helped out quite a bit. Completely flat and smooth trail, so its was doable there, at least.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#21
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I thought it might be. Some of the old plastic tape was indestructable. Definitely change it out. Modern padded tape should help your hands a lot. It is about 10x easier to do than swapping the bar and stem, and it is relatively cheap. Handlebar tape is kind of like socks anyway. It's not meant to last forever. It's worth a try.
Do keep an eye on the stem. Those old french stems were known to crack sometimes, as has been mentioned. If you ride a lot of miles, it's kind of a good idea to replace the stem and bars anyway.
Do keep an eye on the stem. Those old french stems were known to crack sometimes, as has been mentioned. If you ride a lot of miles, it's kind of a good idea to replace the stem and bars anyway.
#22
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Also, it helps to fidget a lot. If the hands rarely stay at one position for very long, there's less chance to get numb.
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Well If my original Pivo stem is indeed a quill stem and has a 25mm area to connect the Nitto noodle, why can't it b shimmed to make it work?
#25
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https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-handlebars.html
Last edited by due ruote; 03-20-16 at 05:23 PM. Reason: Added link