jefnvk

How so? All said and done, my C&V touring build is going to run me around $300. I'm not replacing the drivetrain with something modern at this point, and the alloy wheels are just fine, but even if I were to do those, I'd still be in the neighborhood of $500-600 depending exactly on what I chose.

Is there something new, at that price point, that is going to function significantly better?

Lascauxcaveman 

This and what a lot of others said. There are a lot good modern bikes on the secondary market because of the same ol' same ol' - someone with more money than motivation thought they'd get a new bike to "get back in shape" and the bike has been ridden twice and sitting in the garage since.

At the same time, the hints on securing your BB and just trying new brake pads can go a long way towards making your old bike more ridable. Bang for the buck, those are two pretty great upgrades.

MightyLegnano

Thank you all so much for the very informative comments, you really helped alot. I decided to change the the wheels first and take it from there. I think it will be enough!

Road Fan

Another thing is that the rear hub spacing (frame width) for something of the vintage of most Legnanos is probably 120 mm, at least if 5-speed freewheels are used. With modern frames wth 8 speeds or more, the spacing is 130 mm. So to switch to a modern shifting system you need to open the frame up to 130 mm. This bending (called cold-setting) can be done with care and skill, but some feel it is risky - I do not.

Then you need a rear hub, cassette, derailleur and gear shift lever that are matched for brand, model, and number of gears.

If you're getting a new rear hub, you may as well get a nice modern aluminum 700c rim for it. The 700c rim has 4 mm smaller radius than the original 27" rim. Many brakes on vintage bikes can accommodate that, but some can't. Hence the potential need for nutted brakes with longer reach. A new wheel and brake caliper in the front is next.

For the front derailleur, you could stay with your original shift lever and front derailleur, it may work quite well. But your new chain to match your new multi-speed rear system might not work well on the old front chainrings, due to width and spacing. So: new crank to work with the new chain, and now the new derailleur might be a requirement if you go triple.

At the end of this, you have refitted nearly everything except for headset, bars, seat post, and saddle.

My advice is to just get new aluminum rims in 27" (hooked beads for safety), have them laced to your old hubs (get the bearings repacked), adjust your old brakes to match, and replace the brake pads on your old brakes with Koolstop Salmon. Use your old gearing, hubs, et cetera.

Enjoy your smooth wheels and better braking!

ridelikeaturtle

I'm a bit surprised at a lot of the "don't do it, it's too expensive" comments posted.

What do you guys consider to be a decent "modern" steel-framed complete bike - i.e., what would the OP be looking to pay (ballpark)? I'd like to compare it to what I spent on putting modern(-ish, off a 2000 Bianchi) 9-speed Campy on an old Bianchi Sprint 76. All in, including consumables (bar tape, tyres, cables) I spent just over €700, and I don't think I'd find a modern steel-framed bike as nice.

MightyLegnano

Thank you for your input. Very helpful. It seems to be 130mm. Maybe its not as old as I thought it is?
This is the bike: https://bicycleobsession.files.wordp...2/dsc00276.jpg

MightyLegnano

I was thinking around 700$-600$. I could buy a used Specialized Allez with that money, but I love the ride quality of Italian steel. Do you have a pic of your bike by the way?

ridelikeaturtle

I just posted a photo in the "Official show off your Bianchi thread".

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...l#post18674308

Salamandrine 

Thanks for posting that. Pretty bike and that color is one of my favorites. Is that a Columbus sticker? At first glance, it looks like a quality racing bike with some cheap wheels thrown on to replace the original tubulars. I'd guess it's from the mid or early 70s though I'm not sure. I could see a modern wheel set looking good on that, even the aero rim 24 spoke variety, as long as you take off the stickers.

Are you certain that it's 130mm spacing?? It would have been 120mm spacing originally. I suppose someone could have respaced it already, which makes your job easier. Got a photo of the drive side? Is that a Sugino crank? It looks like a good forged crank at any rate. Nothing to upgrade there.

I would suggest trying some clipless pedals and cycling shoes. That is like geting a new bike in itself. It will make you faster, especially up the hills. If you're new to them, starting with SPD and walkable shoes is a good idea.

MightyLegnano

After a better sizing I found it's 123-124mm. I guess it used to be 120 right? I took some photos that maybe help you identify some of the components. It doestn have a Columbus sticker but one that says something about champion del mondo and an other one with the name of the maker (Emilio Bozzi). The crank is Ofmega (difficult to work with new BB's as I've read). Thanks for your help
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qrkqthpkp...PgmMX17ta?dl=0 (uploading the files)

The bike bellow made me start thinking about modernizing this Legnano (found it on a fb group):
https://i.imgsafe.org/3521811.jpg

MightyLegnano

Nice!

kroozer 

I'm thinking that if the steel wheels are original equipment on this bike, it's not very high quality. The frame is probably fairly heavy and perhaps also the cranks, etc. In that case it's just not worth putting much money into, because you'll never get a lightweight frame. Legnanos are cool, even the cheaper ones, and if you like it then make some upgrades-- but make them on the cheap. To switch all the parts could get expensive, and this is not the type of bike to make a big project out of. It's better just save some money for a better bike.
Maybe you have one of the high-end Legnano's, which would be a different story--but we gotta see some pix to know.

MightyLegnano

Hello kroozer, you can see the bike here
and components

Homebrew01

Measuring from the inside face of the dropouts (where the axle nuts touch), the bike looks like it is of the vintage 120 mm 5-speed, but "stuff happens" over the years, so may not be 120mm now with the wheel removed. Bikes from the 1980s-ish then went to 126mm, to accommodate an extra cog or 2. Then the jump to current 130mm.

jimmuller 

Between the inside edges of the dropouts? That's pretty modern.

Salamandrine 

It's pretty typical to see nominally 120 spaced bikes that in reality measure ~123 or so. It's still a 5 speed bike, but you could spread it to 126 or 130 if you want.

Pretty nice parts on there: forged campy dropouts and nice lugwork. Campagnolo Gran Sport and a decent forged swaged crank. It looks to be a mid level or 'junior' race bike. IOW it's a good bike but a notch down from full campagnolo nuovo record top of the line racer, kind of like a 105 or ultegra equipped bike today. It's a cool machine and worthy of some hot rodding IMO.

Despite what I said earlier, now that i see what's on there, I actually do think that you should upgrade the rear derailleur.

The whole supposed Ofmega non compatibility issue is nothing to worry about. Sheldon greatly exaggerates it, IMO. That said I'd keep the BB and crank together if possible.

MightyLegnano

Thanks for the answer. So you would change the wheels, rear derailleur and brakes maybe?

Salamandrine 

Yes, wheels and rear derailleur.

I would keep the Universal brakes myself, but put new koolstop pads on them, and change the brake cables and housing to a modern low compression type.

MightyLegnano

This is what I am going to do. Thank you very much for your help, greatly appreciated

randyjawa 

Just listed this for less than half of one and a half grand(I can list this on the for sale forum in anyone wishes but keep in mind, shipping from Canada to the US runs a touch over $100).



If the Bianchi Pro does not sell, then the components will find a new home on this...



The question one needs to address before modernizing a vintage bicycle is simple - "Is it worth it?" From a monetary view - no. From a user friendly point of view - yes. But, user friendly or not, if you are putting time effort and money into a vintage bicycle, keep in mind that doing so, if not done correctly, will lower the value of the vintage bicycle which should be considered part of the expense of the build.

Rare is it that the upgrades work as well as simply getting a more modern bicycle. Eight and nine speed steeds are not that expensive these days...

Paid nothing for that Bianchi Pro.
Paid $500 US for this Waterford...



I also have a Legnano, a Grand Premio, and there is no way I would put modern stuff on my Leggi. Not a chance. The frame is just too heavy to make the effort worth while, in my opinion...

rekmeyata

I'm against it but I'm against it because I also have a few vintage cars and my mindset is to keep the cars, and bikes that I have in the factory correct condition after all that is the charm of having an older car or bike. Who would want a 63 Studebaker Avante that came with a carbureted supercharged engine only to find it with a 350 electronic fuel injection Chevy engine instead? Doing that just ruins the reason for the car, no one will admire a Studebaker butchered like that...you may find a few but that's like finding someone who admires seeing a hog butchered...just a very few.

People will admire your bike more the more factory correct it is, they won't be going google eyes over the bike having modern components on it. At least with a bike conversion if you keep the original components it's fairly easy to convert it back as long as you don't spread the rear stays.

crank_addict

This kind of topic comes up often and of course many reasons, variables, why and whats but I want to share a secret.

I'll guarantee the majority of modern CF roadies would toss their bike given the chance they ride this 60's Italian gaspipe with a lowly Campy 5 speed, single ring. Steel crank + steel bars. Pile the steel parts on please. Dreamy fast on the cobblestones. No high flange, but go small with 36 spoke, wire thin to cheat a bit and mandatory tubulars. Old steel stuff sucks up the rough and all plush cruising baby. I'm not joking here. I have ridden the same roads on modern ally w/carbon and modern all CF.

Also, how many gears does one really need? Put a few tall in there and a bailout. Perhaps tack a thumb shifter on the top bar.

If you ride the top of the bars maybe add some modern interrupter turkey levers. The takeoffs from the dealer for new bikes are nice. I note many owners of a new bike have them removed but why?



BTW: Can you see how wide the rubber is? hehe

Andy_K 

To clarify, my comments about what you could do for $1500 were comparing a vintage frame with new (not used) parts to a new complete bike. Maybe that's not an entirely fair comparison. Obviously you can go a lot cheaper buying a used modern bike, but that has its own problems.

You make a good point about user value vs. market value. I feel like my modernized vintage bikes are providing excellent value to me, but there's no way I could sell them for what I've spent on them.

Harbear

Brakes of that era were horrible examples of the use of what they were intended to do; that is stop the bike. Nothing wrong with modernizing the brakes but today's dual pivot calipers have a recessed bolt. I'm 99% sure yours is nutted. Some people have drilled the hole in the fork to accommodate the recessed bolt. In my opinion that would be an abomination on a Legnano. Try better brake pads, maybe Swiss Stop or Kool Stop. Or look for some newer vintage calipers like Modolo, or Galli or Campy. But keep the old stuff. My suggestion on the rims? Keep the hubs and relace them to new Mavic Open Pros, or NOS Mavic MA40's. As someone mentioned, going with a new wheel setup would require changing the spacing on the stays DONE ONLY BY AN EXPERIENCED PROFESSIONAL! Read one of the comments that stated his/her Legnano was too heavy a frame to make the effort. Perhaps, your situation also. I have an entry level Mercier made of gas pipe tubing. I swapped out all the low-end bits and tacked on vintage top-o-the line parts of the day. I was going to show my buddies I could keep up with them on a go to market bike because I have all the high end equipment. They left me in the dust.....

Andy_K 

I was able to find Tektro R539 dual pivot brakes with nutted bolt for my '82 Trek. They're not as common as recessed, but they're out there. I believe these are available through the Tektro web site if nothing else.