Miyata CT3000 Dura Ace 7700 or Campy Centaur?
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Miyata CT3000 Dura Ace 7700 or Campy Centaur?
I've been looking for aluminum lugged carbon tube frame from the late 80s/ early 90s for a while. My brother has a Trek 2300 that I've always liked.
I bought a TVT92 but returned it because the seat tube was crushed from someone clamping the front derailleur on too tightly. That was a bit of a bummer because I'm a Greg LeMond fan and this bike was originally a limited edtion Team Z replica of the bike he won the Tour de France on. I could see the original paint job through the chips on the poorly repainted frame.
Then I came across this nearly perfect Mityata CT3000 on eBay. I trust their CarbonTech technology a little more than TVT's bonding method so I'll feel more confident riding the Miyata.
The first thing I'm going to do is swap out the aluminum fork for a Nashbar carbon fork. The fork on it is not original it should be black. I was thinking of buliding the bike with a Campy Centaur 10 speed group. It has carbon shifters and derailleurs so I thought it would look really nice. But an Italian group on a Japanese bike seems a little non-traditional. I also have a Shimano Dura Ace 7700 group that would look right at home on the bike. The Dura Ace group was already being used on my Serotta. But a campy group may make more sense on that bike since its made from Columbus tubing. Not that it matters they're my bikes and I'm not tryin to sell them.
I bought a TVT92 but returned it because the seat tube was crushed from someone clamping the front derailleur on too tightly. That was a bit of a bummer because I'm a Greg LeMond fan and this bike was originally a limited edtion Team Z replica of the bike he won the Tour de France on. I could see the original paint job through the chips on the poorly repainted frame.
Then I came across this nearly perfect Mityata CT3000 on eBay. I trust their CarbonTech technology a little more than TVT's bonding method so I'll feel more confident riding the Miyata.
The first thing I'm going to do is swap out the aluminum fork for a Nashbar carbon fork. The fork on it is not original it should be black. I was thinking of buliding the bike with a Campy Centaur 10 speed group. It has carbon shifters and derailleurs so I thought it would look really nice. But an Italian group on a Japanese bike seems a little non-traditional. I also have a Shimano Dura Ace 7700 group that would look right at home on the bike. The Dura Ace group was already being used on my Serotta. But a campy group may make more sense on that bike since its made from Columbus tubing. Not that it matters they're my bikes and I'm not tryin to sell them.
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TenGrainBread's bike looks great, but if I had that black carbon Miyata, I'd go 7700 vs. the Centaur.
Don't get me wrong, I really like 10-sp Centaur, especially 1st gen. However, the 7700's superb shifting will suit you well.
That being said, I'd get rid of the 7700's crankset, keep the Octalink BB, and find a used FSA carbon crankset that uses an Octalink BB, silver rings. There are lots out there.
My plan B on crankset would be a 7410 crankset, black rings. I'd prefer either over the DA's self-defacing 7700 crank arms and ready-to-peel anodizing on the rings.
Sloar's Zipp crankset/BB would be awesome on that bike.
Don't get me wrong, I really like 10-sp Centaur, especially 1st gen. However, the 7700's superb shifting will suit you well.
That being said, I'd get rid of the 7700's crankset, keep the Octalink BB, and find a used FSA carbon crankset that uses an Octalink BB, silver rings. There are lots out there.
My plan B on crankset would be a 7410 crankset, black rings. I'd prefer either over the DA's self-defacing 7700 crank arms and ready-to-peel anodizing on the rings.
Sloar's Zipp crankset/BB would be awesome on that bike.
Last edited by RobbieTunes; 05-11-16 at 04:35 AM.
#4
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Dura Ace, because Japan!
...well, I'm biased--I put Shimano on EVERYTHING.
...well, I'm biased--I put Shimano on EVERYTHING.
Last edited by upthywazzoo; 05-11-16 at 05:41 AM.
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TenGrainBread's bike looks great, but if I had that black carbon Miyata, I'd go 7700 vs. the Centaur.
Don't get me wrong, I really like 10-sp Centaur, especially 1st gen. However, the 7700's superb shifting will suit you well.
That being said, I'd get rid of the 7700's crankset, keep the Octalink BB, and find a used FSA carbon crankset that uses an Octalink BB, silver rings. There are lots out there.
My plan B on crankset would be a 7410 crankset, black rings. I'd prefer either over the DA's self-defacing 7700 crank arms and ready-to-peel anodizing on the rings.
Sloar's Zipp crankset/BB would be awesome on that bike.
Don't get me wrong, I really like 10-sp Centaur, especially 1st gen. However, the 7700's superb shifting will suit you well.
That being said, I'd get rid of the 7700's crankset, keep the Octalink BB, and find a used FSA carbon crankset that uses an Octalink BB, silver rings. There are lots out there.
My plan B on crankset would be a 7410 crankset, black rings. I'd prefer either over the DA's self-defacing 7700 crank arms and ready-to-peel anodizing on the rings.
Sloar's Zipp crankset/BB would be awesome on that bike.
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TenGrainBread's bike looks great, but if I had that black carbon Miyata, I'd go 7700 vs. the Centaur.
Don't get me wrong, I really like 10-sp Centaur, especially 1st gen. However, the 7700's superb shifting will suit you well.
That being said, I'd get rid of the 7700's crankset, keep the Octalink BB, and find a used FSA carbon crankset that uses an Octalink BB, silver rings. There are lots out there.
My plan B on crankset would be a 7410 crankset, black rings. I'd prefer either over the DA's self-defacing 7700 crank arms and ready-to-peel anodizing on the rings.
Sloar's Zipp crankset/BB would be awesome on that bike.
Don't get me wrong, I really like 10-sp Centaur, especially 1st gen. However, the 7700's superb shifting will suit you well.
That being said, I'd get rid of the 7700's crankset, keep the Octalink BB, and find a used FSA carbon crankset that uses an Octalink BB, silver rings. There are lots out there.
My plan B on crankset would be a 7410 crankset, black rings. I'd prefer either over the DA's self-defacing 7700 crank arms and ready-to-peel anodizing on the rings.
Sloar's Zipp crankset/BB would be awesome on that bike.
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Thread Update.
You may have seen another thread I posted whining about how the eBay seller messed the frame all up with packing tape. I was upset when I opened it. But once I got passed the gunk I realized that this frame was pretty much NOS. Nothing had ever been mounted in the BB shell or the drop outs. The headset still had clean factory grease in it from 1990. I asked myself am I really THAT GUY? No I can ride a bike with torn decals. So I contacted the seller and thanks to a link sent to me by @blakcloud to a similar frame on PinkBike I was able to get him to give me a partial refund.
Here is what the frame looked like when I pulled it out of the box. You can see part of the headtube decal is now missing. This residue was everywhere.
I used my old standby Never-Dull to carefully remove the residue then spent a little time yesterday installing the Campagnolo Centaur grouppo. There were a bunch of colors on the frame decals including, neon green and orange, yellow, blue and two shades of pink so for bar wrap and cable housing colors I followed their lead. I had left over cable housing from other projects so I only needed to buy the blue which will be used on my next project. I thought that the 25.0mm seat post I had would work but it was too small so now I'm on the hunt for a 25.8mm unit before I can ride it. I've located a nice Miche aero seatpost which will look good with all the other Italian bits so I think I 'll go for that. I also plan to replace the aluminum fork with a carbon fiber fork but I want to see how it rides first. My '99 Peloton has it's original aluminum death fork and I like the way it rides. Without chain, set and seatpost it weighs in at 18.1 pounds. If you're asking yourself, "Who in the hell would want a bike that looks like that?" I incuded a picture of myself at Sun Valley this winter so you could get an idea of how I dress at times.
You may have seen another thread I posted whining about how the eBay seller messed the frame all up with packing tape. I was upset when I opened it. But once I got passed the gunk I realized that this frame was pretty much NOS. Nothing had ever been mounted in the BB shell or the drop outs. The headset still had clean factory grease in it from 1990. I asked myself am I really THAT GUY? No I can ride a bike with torn decals. So I contacted the seller and thanks to a link sent to me by @blakcloud to a similar frame on PinkBike I was able to get him to give me a partial refund.
Here is what the frame looked like when I pulled it out of the box. You can see part of the headtube decal is now missing. This residue was everywhere.
I used my old standby Never-Dull to carefully remove the residue then spent a little time yesterday installing the Campagnolo Centaur grouppo. There were a bunch of colors on the frame decals including, neon green and orange, yellow, blue and two shades of pink so for bar wrap and cable housing colors I followed their lead. I had left over cable housing from other projects so I only needed to buy the blue which will be used on my next project. I thought that the 25.0mm seat post I had would work but it was too small so now I'm on the hunt for a 25.8mm unit before I can ride it. I've located a nice Miche aero seatpost which will look good with all the other Italian bits so I think I 'll go for that. I also plan to replace the aluminum fork with a carbon fiber fork but I want to see how it rides first. My '99 Peloton has it's original aluminum death fork and I like the way it rides. Without chain, set and seatpost it weighs in at 18.1 pounds. If you're asking yourself, "Who in the hell would want a bike that looks like that?" I incuded a picture of myself at Sun Valley this winter so you could get an idea of how I dress at times.
Last edited by eastbay71; 06-02-16 at 08:34 AM. Reason: relinik pics
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BTW, one of the rare instances where stem caps make sense.
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Those are custom handbuilts, a 60th birthday present from my wife.
White Industries H2 and H3 hubs laced to Kinlin XR200 rims. They're five years & 3500 miles old, have never required truing.
White Industries H2 and H3 hubs laced to Kinlin XR200 rims. They're five years & 3500 miles old, have never required truing.
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I took the CT3000 out for a 50 mile ride over Memeorial Day Weekend and I couldn't be more happy. I put a carbon fiber fork from my TVT92 project on the bike and it rides like a dream. The bike performed flawlessly on the ride. I wish I had the older version of Quick Shift on the rear shifter. You can only shift one cog at a time on the thumb shifter. I think you could dump up to 3 on the older version. Shifts to easier gears can be made 3 at a time which is nice when approachiong a big hill. I used a soda can to shim up the seatpost until the new one arrives.
Here are some ride pics from my ride around the south end of San Francisco Bay
Here are some ride pics from my ride around the south end of San Francisco Bay