armstrong101

Hi folks

Curious to know how these turn out - so please show your powdercoated bikes with or without decals. Mention if you added the decals yourself or had a "pro" do it. For any pro-repainted bikes shared here, please identify them as such!

simmonsgc

Professional powdercoat by a framebuilder who knows how to powdercoat tubing. Velocals decals applied by me and a good friend. Seat tube wraps are not for the faint of heart. Hope I never have to do another one. Loosely clamped in the stand above...

KenNC

One i did a few years ago is at this link: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...d-i-think.html
Powdercoat followed by decals from Cyclomondo. Was thinking of clearcoating on top of all, but was advised against it.
Applied the decals myself following Cyclomondo's instructions. Sorry, don't know how to re-post the pictures here!

ChicagoSteel

Aw, man . . . that Trek is some kind of Platonic ideal of a frame.

TomHilbert

My 1988 Schwinn Premis. Powder coated right before I bought it. Has a small Columbus Tenax decal near the bottom of the seat tube.

tyler_fred

Paging Dr. Cannondale!!

echo victor 

Well, I picked up a powder coated Bianchi (Nuovo Racing, I think, but still trying to get confirmation) recently. The seller was the original owner and told me he'd had it done somewhere in LA years ago. Photos of it as received are in this thread.

You can see road grime in the photos, but the powder coat itself is in good shape. I don't think I've found any spots where the powder coat has been scratched through. Details are still visible - the B in the seatstay caps and the fork crown or the serial number at the top of the seat tube, for instance, but I suspect they don't show quite as well as they did with paint. If you've got a lot of surface detail on the frame you're considering having powder coated, you might want to see examples of their work on similar detail.

You can use View Image (or similar for your browser) to see the full size version of any of those photos. Let me know if there's something else specific you'd like to see, and I'll try to get a photo.

Kinda too bad that I don't love yellow as a bike color.

AZORCH

1971 Raleigh International. My coater did a great job masking the chrome.





1984 Peugeot P8, which I no longer have. This went from a butt ugly frame to a nice, wet black looking bike.





1985 Shogun 2000. This came to me already powder coated. Not too bad, but definitely not as thin or as detailed as Groody Brothers, the powder coater I use. I no longer have this bike.

Bikerider007

I have only re-decaled one bike. I took measurements beforehand and used painters tape to even up and lay straight lines before putting them down. Came out nice.

nlerner

Schwinn SuperSport. The fillet brazing shows nicely with the PC:

thomasgk327

1970's Peugeot, powdercoated a couple years ago. Was white originally. Found decals online.

JohnDThompson 

My Viscount, decals from H. Lloyd:



Built up:

The Golden Boy 

What is this thing?

531, mid-fork bosses... looks Way Cool.

mstateglfr 

2 bikes have been re-decaled. All decals came from Velocals. Ive gotten their UV finished and unfinished decals and both look fantastic.

1980(ish) Puch Pathfinder. It wasnt powdercoated, but new decals were applied. It was a HiTen frame made by Araya.





1990 touring frame made by Fuji for a touring vacations company. This was powdercoated by another poster and I added the headbadge, top tube wording, and Si35 Ishiwata feather triple butted decals.

tmh657

This is a timely thread. I have a 1981 Trek 710 with no seat tube decal and want to order it from Velocals. Tell me please just how hard was it to get the decal on correctly? I am a pretty good wrench and crazy OCD at how my bikes look but have no experience with decals.

gugie 

My Raleigh International with Velocal stick on decals. In person you can see the clear edge of the decals, not very professional looking. Masking Nervex lugs is a pain in the patootie:



Schwinnger, rub on vinyl lettering Vinyl Lettering | Custom Vinyl Lettering, Air Conditioner font modified with Font Forge (elongated the capitol "S" tails) - sorry about breaking the "drive side" pic rule:



My tandem stoker and daughter, the lovely Miss H's sparkly yellow renaissanced Nishiki Olympic 12, vinyl decals by same outfit as the Schwinnger:



"The Thing" black powdercoat, masked the white areas for subsequent DIY rattle can creamy white, Univega decals by Velocals:

clasher

I had a miyata 1000 done by a local company that does all kinds of stuff, I think they did a good job.

Started with this:


Ended up with this:




As it stands today:


I rode it a lot last year and the saddle setback is too much and I think it might work for me if I get an inline seatpost. I have an origin-8 one coming and if it works I will keep it set up like this for 400K and longer brevets, maybe. Currently it's running 9 speed on a 105 hub. If my calf continues to get sore riding the bike I am not sure what to do about that. I think the serial number pegs it as an 1987 but I painted it like an '89 because the crappy paint had obscured the serial number too much to get a good read. I think person that did coating did good work on the seatstay caps and were light enough with the powder that they didn't fill in the engraved fork crown completely. The only frame painter close-by would have charged me over 500$ for the bike and the PC was 150$ cash. I think I was under 600$ getting the whole bike back on the road after the powdercoat and new tires.

beech333

Trying to run under the radar with thieves. Repair and PC was done by Owen Lloyd of Lloyd Cycles earlier this spring. I've been very happy with it so far.



sorry the picture is crap, but it is all that I have. (Yes, I need to clean up the fender stays.)

ldmataya 

My Lemond 853 was done a few years ago by Spectrum powder in Colorado Springs. It had some crash damage and I don't like those fade paint jobs anyway. Those panels aren't decals, but just powdercoated relief color in that design. I don't know how they do it but it is marvelous when you run your hand over it and realize it is one smooth surface. I did add the 853 and Equipped with DuraAce decals from Velocals.

arex

I'm going to re-decal this Raleigh, whenever I get around to ordering them from Velocals.





No decals on this bike, but I may get some custom ones done later on, if I can justify it to myself:

Darth Lefty 

I have some "cartoon" 1998 Cannondale decals waiting for me to get my Cannondale commuter done. If I'd known I'd be off the bike for two months in peak season I'd have done it now but I'm always hoping I'll get better in another week

by Darth Lefty, on Flickr

by Darth Lefty, on Flickr

simmonsgc

If you don't refer to that Raleigh as "The Flying Eggplant" -- you should. Great color!

3alarmer 

...the Velocals details are printed on vinyl, so it's a relatively easy application if you set up your position and alignment with some kind of masking tape prior to application, and use the wet method of application as instructed. I've never had the courage to attempt a dry application.

before: after:

The PC guys were good enough, but nobody special in terms of doing bicycle frames.

rgver

Still building this one up
As bought, the pictures do not do the wretchedness of the paint job justice


PCed locally, works great with fillet brazing. DIY decals other than the WC stripes which were bought off ebay





This Pinarello was not PCed but I redecaled it using Velocals

ldmataya 

If you do Velocals I would suggest purchasing an extra decal of some sort and practicing the wet method. As suggested before, measuring and aligning can all be done ahead of time, I use painter tape to mark the key locations after I measure everything. The wet method works very well, but you don't have a lot of time, so move it quickly if it isn't in position right away.