My first real bike: Peugeot PX-10
#51
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That's a good tip, Iowegian. I'll bet that Brooks Pro is original to the bike, and has a date.
Those early 70's Pros are worth their weight in gold if in good condition, IMO, and that one looks to be in very nice condition.
Those early 70's Pros are worth their weight in gold if in good condition, IMO, and that one looks to be in very nice condition.
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Nice bike! You don't see many PX-10s in blue. I'm now building up a white one of the same year and frame size--I've been wanting one since 1970.
Be aware that the frame has the proprietary Simplex derailleur hanger brazed on, so you're limited to Simplex rear derailleurs unless you're willing to butcher the hanger or use some other work-around. Hanger butchery used to be common practice, but many around here (including me) think that it's better to leave the original hanger intact. Others think we're idiots.
Google "Simplex derailleur hanger" and you'll probably turn up a bunch of useful information about your rear derailleur options.
Be aware that the frame has the proprietary Simplex derailleur hanger brazed on, so you're limited to Simplex rear derailleurs unless you're willing to butcher the hanger or use some other work-around. Hanger butchery used to be common practice, but many around here (including me) think that it's better to leave the original hanger intact. Others think we're idiots.
Google "Simplex derailleur hanger" and you'll probably turn up a bunch of useful information about your rear derailleur options.
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#53
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One other thing....it's notoriously hard to date old Peugeots but if the saddle is original, and it may well be, there is often a date code stamped on the bottom of the metal 'frame' of the saddle. Take a look and if you see something like 'A73' that may help date the bike.
If the OP wants to use original Universal brake hoods, Greg Parker has them at: Vintage Bicycle Parts : Brake Hoods, Pads, Cables and Housings They aren't cheap but they are original if that matters.
#54
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For the jockey wheel, SunTour parts will fit but Shimano will not. As noted above, it's a bolt diameter issue. It looks like the one on this bike has disintegrated and I imagine the shifting will be very poor until you replace that part. In the short term you could try swapping the positions of the jockey wheels but you really should find a replacement wheel before riding the bike too much. I have a few spares if you can't find one locally.
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The badge on the saddle looks like the '73 to '80 badge. If the bike is a late '72 production I imagine it possible to have an early '73 saddle.
If the OP wants to use original Universal brake hoods, Greg Parker has them at: Vintage Bicycle Parts : Brake Hoods, Pads, Cables and Housings They aren't cheap but they are original if that matters.
If the OP wants to use original Universal brake hoods, Greg Parker has them at: Vintage Bicycle Parts : Brake Hoods, Pads, Cables and Housings They aren't cheap but they are original if that matters.
I think I'm going to pass on the original hoods and go cheap for now. Have plenty to spend elsewhere on the bike and I just want to get it cleaned up and on the road. Good link for next time though!
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I would take a pair of calipers or ruler and measure to make sure that you have clearance for 42mm diameter pulleys as the item description says. Also perhaps count the teeth on a pulley (if one of them has teeth) to see if it has 10 or 11 teeth.
#57
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+1 on measuring the existing jockey wheel. I'd confirm with VO but I don't think the ones you mentioned will fit this derailleur. If you have a bike co-op nearby you can scavenge one (or two) off any old Suntour RD and that should work.
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If they don't have the notch, they're neither rare nor valuable.
The top tube cable clips should be Simplex. I was always able to find new ones on Ebay, but that was a few years ago.
Run a 10 mm tap through the hanger and a Shimano Crane will bolt right on.
Or look for one of these:
Or these:
A PX10 of that era really should have MAFAC Racer brakes. You can find them cheap.
Last edited by Grand Bois; 07-08-16 at 12:35 PM.
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I assume that little notch is for the spring? Even if they aren't retro friction, simplex bar ends suit the bike.
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The notch holds the end of the spring.
The standard Simplex bar end shifters are pretty crappy, in my experience. I bought a set just for the rubber covers for my retrofrictions.
Both work best with a demultiplicator relay since the barrels are so big. It reduces the amount of cable pull.
The standard Simplex bar end shifters are pretty crappy, in my experience. I bought a set just for the rubber covers for my retrofrictions.
Both work best with a demultiplicator relay since the barrels are so big. It reduces the amount of cable pull.
Last edited by Grand Bois; 07-08-16 at 12:59 PM.
#61
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Also, to rub in the comments about cable clips, even some cheapo Shimanos look nice, although your bike really deserves Simplex, if you can find them. A blue 1972 PX-10 in great condition -- you have lucked out big time!
As for the bike license over the 531 decal, I have the same problem on my Capo Sieger. A lot of shops wiped out the 531 stickers by letting the seat tube slide down in the clamp, and quick-thinking mechanics covered the incriminating evidence with bike licenses.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#62
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May I throw in one discouraging word? "Schrader." If that bike were mine, I would definitely switch to Presta valves, which will probably require a washer on each one to keep the tube from expanding through the oversize valve hole.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#63
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Good idea. I was going to ask about that. I don't have any experience switching from Schrader to Presta, but I also prefer Presta. Would I have to glue the washer to the inside of the rim, or would it be fine floating? I would be a little worried about puncturing the tube, but if the washer is under the rim tape, maybe it's not a big deal.
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I prefer Presta valves too. But I don't mind reg'lar old Schrader valves. have them on one bike.
I suspect that may be the least of the owner's concerns at this point.
As for Universal brake hoods, I wouldn't bother with expensive originals. had a pair of those, and sold them.
They're nice, but the modern re-pops are more durable. And cheaper.
Universal Brake Lever Hoods Ammortizzatori Coprileve Freno Corsa | eBay
I suspect that may be the least of the owner's concerns at this point.
As for Universal brake hoods, I wouldn't bother with expensive originals. had a pair of those, and sold them.
They're nice, but the modern re-pops are more durable. And cheaper.
Universal Brake Lever Hoods Ammortizzatori Coprileve Freno Corsa | eBay
#65
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Good idea. I was going to ask about that. I don't have any experience switching from Schrader to Presta, but I also prefer Presta. Would I have to glue the washer to the inside of the rim, or would it be fine floating? I would be a little worried about puncturing the tube, but if the washer is under the rim tape, maybe it's not a big deal.
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Try one of these... https://www.amazon.com/Schrader-Pres.../dp/B000XNZU1S
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So, I (barely) started taking this thing apart after work. I had some child labor; he wanted the kickstand. I also found a serial number on the bottom bracket, and discovered a crack in the rear brake lever. Can I ride it with the lever housing cracked, or should I plan on dropping cash on new lever(s)? If they must be replaced, are there some newer components that would work well and still look great? I'm looking for best value without ruining the look. Oh, and the shifters are just plain Simplex shifters.
Looks like the frame points to '72, and the derailleur to '71
Looks like the frame points to '72, and the derailleur to '71
Last edited by hansmanos; 07-08-16 at 10:23 PM.
#68
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Let one of the Pug experts tell you definitively, but as you have more than one crack in the brake body, I would not use it. Personally I would not ride with those cracks, especially being at those locations. Might be me and my paranoia, but just because you're paranoid, it does not mean they aren't out to get you, or me.....
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#69
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I'd be cautious riding with that lever. Being it's for the rear brake it probably won't get the use of the front lever but I would look for a new ones. Here is a complete set of Mafac Racers on eBay: Mafac Racer Vintage Ensemble de Freins Velo Ancien Bicycle Brake Set Road Race | eBay These would be more original for the bike.
I have a pair of Gran Compe levers with newer black Cane Creek hoods gathering dust in the garage. I would sell them to you for $15/ shipped to your address. These aren't the originals for a Peugeot but look similar. If interested just let me know.
I have a pair of Gran Compe levers with newer black Cane Creek hoods gathering dust in the garage. I would sell them to you for $15/ shipped to your address. These aren't the originals for a Peugeot but look similar. If interested just let me know.
Last edited by Kactus; 07-08-16 at 09:56 PM.
#70
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Is this accurate? I've been on a lookout for something along these lines, but the dimensions shown on Amazon aren't what you'd need to fit the French steerer (22mm).
https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Class...dp/B00B138QN8/
https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Class...dp/B00B138QN8/
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I would recommend some mafac levers for a px10. If you can get a full set of brake and levers even better. Velo orange has reproduction mafac hoods for $15 last I checked. Also kool-stop makes brake pad inserts for mafac center pull brakes. They can be a little difficult to setup so they don't make noise but stop rather well with modern pads/cables. Although the same can be said for most center pulls. Velo orange also has a decent selection of non-aero dia compe and gran compe brake levers if you don't go the mafac route.
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I'd be cautious riding with that lever. Being it's for the rear brake it probably won't get the use of the front lever but I would look for a new ones. Here is a complete set of Mafac Racers on eBay: Mafac Racer Vintage Ensemble de Freins Velo Ancien Bicycle Brake Set Road Race | eBay These would be more original for the bike.
I have a pair of Gran Compe levers with newer black Cane Creek hoods gathering dust in the garage. I's sell to you for $15/ shipped to your address. These aren't the originals for a Peugeot but look similar. If interested just let me know.
I have a pair of Gran Compe levers with newer black Cane Creek hoods gathering dust in the garage. I's sell to you for $15/ shipped to your address. These aren't the originals for a Peugeot but look similar. If interested just let me know.
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10 teeth on one, I'm pretty sure the other is a nickel. Thanks!
Last edited by hansmanos; 07-08-16 at 09:45 PM.
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I don't have any experience switching from Schrader to Presta, but I also prefer Presta. Would I have to glue the washer to the inside of the rim, or would it be fine floating? I would be a little worried about puncturing the tube, but if the washer is under the rim tape, maybe it's not a big deal.
Sunlite Bicycle Rim Grommet