Yo Jimbo

Picked up this Raleigh 1967 Sports on Craiglist a few days ago. Needs some maintenance but I'm pretty happy with it.
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Vintage Raleigh

Good pick up. Doesn't need to much by the looks of it.

BigChief 

Wow, gorgeous! great find.

artclone

Sa-weet! Very nice. So much fancier than the following year's Superbe. But I think the Sports were, uh, sportier, and came in colors and such.

Great find.

Yo Jimbo

Thanks, I think mostly it just needs some cleaning and light rust removal from some hard to get places and new/repacked bearings, The bottom bracket I don't know what to expect though, feels a little gritty when I turn the crank. I hope it's not real bad when I open it up. I removed the 9.5mm cotter pins from the crank with the nifty tool I made from instructions on a Youtube video. I then bought a new set of pins from the LBS but after getting them home the threads don't match the nice "R" domed nuts that came off the old pins. Any idea where I can get a set with the correct thread for the old "R" caped nuts?

BigChief 

You will probably also find that the taper of the new pins doesn't match the crank. Most pins you can buy have tapers too steep for Raleighs and have to be filed to fit properly. Any chance you could reuse the old ones?

Prowler 

If the original cotter pins are OK then why replace them? I've read on this forum several times that the new cotter pins you can buy are softer metal and not as good as the originals. I've reused original Raleigh cotter pins and they appear to be AOK but I've not put miles on those bikes 'in the wild' so I cannot attest to how well they worked. Others here will speak from actual road experience.

Ah, banging this one in at the same time BigChief was posting his note....

w1gfh

Wow. All you need is the saddlebag and the bike will be in totally NOS condition!

Grand Bois

That statement makes no sense to me.

BigChief 

Take a look here. It explains everything.
Bicycle Crank Cotters

Grand Bois

I have enough experience with with crank cotters to know that the angle makes no difference as long as both cotters have the same angle. The reason for filing is to thin them so they protrude the correct amount.

BigChief 

Fact is the poor guy will try to install the cotters he got from his LBS and the threads won't protrude enough to thread the nut on. You fix that by chucking the pin in a bench vise and filing the taper flatter. If you were to maintain the precise angle, pretty hard to do by hand anyway, you would file away some of the threads at the end of the pin. So yes, you reduce the angle until the threaded end protrudes a little less than the thickness of the nut and washer.

nlerner

OP, you're showing lots of stem extension in that pic. How much you got left in the head tube?

Yo Jimbo

I'm not sure I havn't had a chance to work on it much but I have some time tomorrow and I'll check it out.

ascherer 

Great find! Have fun on it.

Yo Jimbo

Ok, it's about finished, one thing I notice is when coasting if I remove my feet from the pedals they will keep turning. When I put my feet back on all is normal and it coast fine. I'm wondering if I might have adjusted the outer bearings a tad too tight when I cleaned and regreased them. I added a couple cc's of motor oil to the hub too. Any thoughts?

BigChief 

Gorgeous bike. What a classic you have there. Looks like you did a great job. Did you have a cone wrench to hold the cone steady while you tightened the lock nut? It can be tricky to get a precise adjustment without one.

Yo Jimbo

Thanks Chief, I did use a cone wrench until I noticed some resistance in spinning the wheel and then backed off a tiny bit until it spun freely but I'm thinking maybe I didn't back off enough. I'll recheck it today. Bike rides and shifts smooth as silk otherwise.