Meet Mr Old Fella (1938 CCM)
10-30-16, 10:13 AM
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Meet Mr Old Fella (1938 CCM)
I posted about this bike several months ago but only recently got it into the basement to work on it. My only objective was to get it rideable again; that part was surprisingly easy!
Anyway: obligatory before picture:
After its maiden ride today:
There's a bunch more detail shots here:
38 Ccm Cleaned Up Story by Mark Kaczmarczyk (markk900) | Photobucket
Overall though, its rideable with only one issue - the pedal hole for the crank on the chainring side is either slightly cross threaded or bent - the new/old pedals (English, maybe Phillips) I put on to replace the hideous generic japanese pedals that were on there went on fine but one is definitely off perpendicular by a bit;
Not going to do anything cosmetic; now starts the long search for period or original bits to replace the obviously incorrect saddle; handlebars; wheels, tires. Also looking for CCM chainring bolts to fit as there is one missing (why on almost every CCM I have seen, in person or online, is at least one of those bolts missing?)
Anyway: obligatory before picture:
After its maiden ride today:
There's a bunch more detail shots here:
38 Ccm Cleaned Up Story by Mark Kaczmarczyk (markk900) | Photobucket
Overall though, its rideable with only one issue - the pedal hole for the crank on the chainring side is either slightly cross threaded or bent - the new/old pedals (English, maybe Phillips) I put on to replace the hideous generic japanese pedals that were on there went on fine but one is definitely off perpendicular by a bit;
Not going to do anything cosmetic; now starts the long search for period or original bits to replace the obviously incorrect saddle; handlebars; wheels, tires. Also looking for CCM chainring bolts to fit as there is one missing (why on almost every CCM I have seen, in person or online, is at least one of those bolts missing?)
10-30-16, 10:22 AM
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Good to see old bikes given another chance.
10-30-16, 10:53 AM
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Interesting bike, nice find! I'm inclined to think the wobble you feel in the pedal is caused by a bent crank arm. It takes very little bend to get that uneven feeling. That's a pretty easy fix.
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10-30-16, 11:19 AM
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With the rear facing dropouts that would pass for one of those messenger bikes the kids rode in the teens and twenties.
That will be an awesome bike when you get it rolling well!
That will be an awesome bike when you get it rolling well!
10-30-16, 11:50 AM
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Wow - CCM had a great head badge in 1938.
10-30-16, 12:10 PM
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Nice 1938 CCM Road Racer in a factory custom colour. 
10-30-16, 12:45 PM
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ccm
Some of these bikes were Reynolds plain gauge, I had a Flyer, The Sports Museum In Van. BC has Torcy Pedens old CCm
10-30-16, 01:28 PM
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Overall though, its rideable with only one issue - the pedal hole for the crank on the chainring side is either slightly cross threaded or bent - the new/old pedals (English, maybe Phillips) I put on to replace the hideous generic japanese pedals that were on there went on fine but one is definitely off perpendicular by a bit;
Not going to do anything cosmetic; now starts the long search for period or original bits to replace the obviously incorrect saddle; handlebars; wheels, tires. Also looking for CCM chainring bolts to fit as there is one missing (why on almost every CCM I have seen, in person or online, is at least one of those bolts missing?)
Honestly, I don't think you can find original rims with rubber. I know at least 5 guys with the rims and none of them are rideable. Original hubs were Philips. I think I have a correct rear brakeset if you're interested.
Bars are upper right. They are narrow at top and flare out quickly.
10-30-16, 01:41 PM
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Stylish rake+stance.
10-30-16, 03:54 PM
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It was definitely a "racer" in the same way as many of today's road bikes, but the true racer was the "Flyer"....you should see how thin the stays on that are!
10-30-16, 03:58 PM
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There were 2 types. One threaded flush to the surface of the ring and the other type were longer and had nuts. edit looked at pics, you need long ones with bolts. Think I've got two. Your stem is correct. The bars are odd but you can find them.
Honestly, I don't think you can find original rims with rubber. I know at least 5 guys with the rims and none of them are rideable. Original hubs were Philips. I think I have a correct rear brakeset if you're interested.
Bars are upper right. They are narrow at top and flare out quickly.
Honestly, I don't think you can find original rims with rubber. I know at least 5 guys with the rims and none of them are rideable. Original hubs were Philips. I think I have a correct rear brakeset if you're interested.
Bars are upper right. They are narrow at top and flare out quickly.
10-30-16, 04:14 PM
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CCM is Canadian, right? (I remember their dirt bikes (motorcycles) in the 1970's, those and the CanAm) I was wondering what degree the headtube and seattube are. I love the deep angles on both of cycles of that period. Are you going to keep it a single speed? Are there Canadian period components? Very nice bike.
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10-30-16, 04:39 PM
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10-30-16, 05:35 PM
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10-30-16, 05:55 PM
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CCM is Canadian, right? (I remember their dirt bikes (motorcycles) in the 1970's, those and the CanAm) I was wondering what degree the headtube and seattube are. I love the deep angles on both of cycles of that period. Are you going to keep it a single speed? Are there Canadian period components? Very nice bike.
The bike was always single speed, though the rear wheel now is a coaster brake which is incorrect. As to finding Canadian period components, there's always hope! I did find a NOS Dunlop Speedster tire - but only one so far. And there are fans reproducing grips, so that I can find. Seat should be a Brooks so I will find something suitable (though for me suitable always includes cheap!). We shall see!
10-30-16, 06:26 PM
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10-30-16, 06:32 PM
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I think you're right about those hex nuts not clearing the crankarm. I'll sent you one of each type NS use some loctite on the close ones. They often came with mudguards as well. Here's a 37 frame, NOS. 
And here's a crank where the hex nuts clear the arms. Restortation and custom hex nuts by Tony Beeks of Toronto
And here's a crank where the hex nuts clear the arms. Restortation and custom hex nuts by Tony Beeks of Toronto
10-30-16, 06:56 PM
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I think you're right about those hex nuts not clearing the crankarm. I'll sent you one of each type NS use some loctite on the close ones. They often came with mudguards as well. Here's a 37 frame, NOS.
And here's a crank where the hex nuts clear the arms. Restortation and custom hex nuts by Tony Beeks of Toronto
And here's a crank where the hex nuts clear the arms. Restortation and custom hex nuts by Tony Beeks of Toronto
And the pinstripes are very different....still - NOS is incredible.
Mark