sdn40

[IMG]DSC00078 by , on Flickr[/IMG]

Picked up my 88 Criterium from powder coating and started putting on the decals. Halfway thru and I notice the aluminum foil still in the bottom bracket. I push it out and notice some powder coat on the threads. Of course, because that's my life Knowing those threads are fine and tight - I immediately try the cups -- no go and I wasn't gonna force a damn thing. I warned the guys that I didn't want to chase any threads - and especially the bottom bracket. Back it goes and they can wrestle with it. I actually dont have a good feeling about this. Sorry about the crappy picture - the bedroom lighting sucks.

nesteel 

Take it to a decent shop that can chase the threads. Let the powder coated know to expect a bill for it.

3alarmer 

.
...I have done this. Trust me when I say it is waaaay easier to just get someone with a set of piloted BB taps to chase it out. Wouldn't hurt to talk with the PC guys about crediting you for this.

It happens in some version a lot. I can recall a couple of forks where the crown race seat got pc'ed.

I just got the local frame guy to use his race cutting tool to re-establish it.

USAZorro

Here's an instance where I'd feel way more confident on a steel frame after all is resolved. Hope it all works to the good, sdn40.

TenGrainBread 

It's a 10 minute job at the local bike shop with the Park Tools face/chase tool (BTS-1) and some cutting oil to get those threads cleaned up.

sdn40

Appreciate the help guys. I thought it might be harder than it actually might be.
I'm still not happy as I specifically mentioned that I didnt want the added headache of chasing threads, especially the size of the bottom bracket.
I'm gonna sleep on it and decide in the morning how much grief I give the powder coaters.

Vintage Raleigh

I would expect a bike shop to tap your bb threads not the powder coater unless the bike shop organised. I would expect the powder coater to do their best keeping the threads clean. Can't imagine they'd keep a set of bike specific taps.

easyupbug 

+1, only used powder coaters for patio furniture and two kids bikes with two different guys that did bikes and motorcycles but I would not let them near it with a tap if that was my bike. From what I experienced you might need to search for "threadless BB" after they were through.

Hudson308 

I've had decent luck cleaning a pc'd crown race seat and pc'd chrome areas with acetone. BB threads would be more of pain, though. Just don't let the acetone slop all over the rest of the frame.

sdn40

Appreciate the help guys. Sounds like this is just part of the process

Bad Lag

It's not "part of the process". Masking off threads so they don't get fill with powder IS "part of the process".


Re-facing and re-tapping is how one recovers from a screw up by the powder coater.


I agree with the others, the powder coater owes you a credit cover the cost of remedying their screw up. I would give the coater any "grief", I'd just make sure they cover your cost. Nothing will teach them better than paying cash for their screw up.

vtchuck

Nice looking 'Dale. Any idea of the year?

Looks like it could be mid-80's?

sdn40

It's an 88 Criterium. I had one of those scary guy 'visions' the second I saw it. It was white with blue lettering on the top tube and got it cheap. I blame my daughter because I went looking for a bike to keep up with her. I am trying not to fall down the rabbit hole too far and picking up pieces to keep the budget under control. I picked up the wheelset for $100 as I couldn't leave well enough alone and down the slope I started. I always thought the Cannondale quill stems looked out of scale so I am updating that next. Of course I end up spending way too much time here. The Cannondale threads are awesome
Thanks

cbrstar

I would take either a wire or scratch brush to the threads before chasing them.

OldsCOOL

Sorry to hear of your complications and hoping you find a resolution for this. The '88 Criterium makes for an awesome build. The ride and handling is exhillerating. Enjoy!

Speaking of '88 Criterium Series.....

[IMG][/IMG]

qcpmsame 

Unfortunately this isn't the first time I have read about a PC dinging someone by not masking off things correctly, or if at all. I agree about not getting a good mad all fired up, you can get the message across to the PC guy, and most likely work something out as to cost of chasing the bottom bracket shell. Also agree that taking it to a good bicycle mechanic in a bike shop to get the shell's threads chased is the best course to take. Its not a difficult or time consuming task, at all. If the mechanic has the proper taps for your BB standard and threading, English or Italian most likely, and knows how to proceed, it can get done in maybe 15 minutes. I had to get a BB shell chased last spring, $15.00 to do the deed, and he wanted to make small talk during the process, was all it took. Got to love a mechanic that has a Campagnolo wooden-boxed tool set, complete and in the shop at hand.

Bill

Bad Lag

$15 price and immediate service has to be worth a $20 tip. Those tools are expensive, have limited cutting life and don't often get used.

sdn40

Cleaned up the threads the best I could with a brass brush.
Still irked cuz I wanted to see the frame with the drilled crankset installed
I'll let you guys know what happens if I can squeeze in the time to take the frame in
Thanks again for your help

RiddleOfSteel

That is a great looking build so far, sdn40. Can't wait to see how it is completed! Really sorry to hear about the powdercoating issue. Thankfully it looks like the avenues to remedy aren't overly cumbersome. Got my old Cannondale built up (different groupset than before) and test rode it last night. Good to have it back on the road again.

daf1009

The few times that I have had a bike either PC'ed and/or painted, I considered chasing the threads to be a part of the process. In this case, I would definitely work with the PC guy to help cover the cost...but...as I said, I think of it as part of the process...it just eases my mind that the threads are in a more pristine shape. IMHO, it is often smart to have the threads chased even if you changing the BB...those threads are so fine and easy to "mess up"...and that can really hurt the future of the bike.


But...that is just me...

vtchuck

I found a frame on eBay a couple of years back that had already been powder-coated red and fitted with a Kinesis alloy fork. Got it for half what the fork was worth. Was the only bidder. Followed the same course as you are, building it up with parts I had or acquired off bike "flips". Photos of it in my Flickr link below.

Is that the model with the snap-on rear brake cable guides?

If the re-threading doesn't work out, you might check out Velo Orange thread-less bottom brackets.

Good luck

trainman999

sdn40; If you are going to build bikes from the frame up why don’t you make a set of thread chasing tools for your tool box?
For the bottom bracket threads: take an old bottom bracket the same size cut one or more slots or V’s across the threads (like the flutes in a tap, a dremel and a cutting disc works good for this)
Derailleur hangers threads: use a 10x1 slotted rear axel or an old derailleur bolt you cut a slot in. I like the 10x1 axel because you can run it in from the back side and get several threads out the front.
Headset: take an old threaded top race cut slots across the threads.
Axels: an old cone with a slot.
The slots are necessary so the dirt, paint, metal has some place to go. They should start in by hand and like a tap backed out after a few turns to clean the dirt out of them. If you have no old parts ask the local bike shop for scrap parts.

plonz 

This is a neat idea but doesn't the Dremel destroy the threads during the cutting process? I would think you'd have to chase the chaser.

Slash5

I bought a powder coated frame at a swap meet that had not been masked at all. That powder coating is tough. Used a knife to clean up the crown race seat, head tube and the shift lever posts, bit of sanding. Faced the BB. Wire brushed the BB threads and the cups threaded in OK. Since it was Italian, figured the tight cups were a bonus, might keep the cups from winding out.

crank_addict

Absolutely the way to go for the very few times one may ever need - home mechanic, DIY.

Often done for the impossible to find / proprietary threads for restoring or working on early brass auto's. Many manufacturers back then cut their own screws. Amazing when you think they went through the trouble and before standardization.

Anyways, when using the Dremel wheel make the slit cut at a slant. You want the sharp edge as the cutter, the other edge of the slit doesn't matter as much. Grind a chamfer taper at the end to help start. No need to make it perfect, just enough to get those bad threads back in useful shape. If you want to experiment, after making the slits, heat the home made tap to near glowing and then quench in water. It will change the hardness. Though this is not really needed for bike frame threads, of which all are soft.