Woe is me...105 FD question
06-15-17, 09:25 AM
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Woe is me...105 FD question
My Shimano 105 FD-1056, billed as a triple, will not push out far enough for the big chainring.
The limit screw is all the way out, so the question is...why?
(Or...why me?...since the bike needs to be finished, boxed, and shipped soon!)
PS Yes, that is duct tape under the clamp...probably temporary.while protecting the What would be better,
The limit screw is all the way out, so the question is...why?
(Or...why me?...since the bike needs to be finished, boxed, and shipped soon!)
PS Yes, that is duct tape under the clamp...probably temporary.while protecting the What would be better,
Last edited by 67tony; 06-15-17 at 10:19 AM.
06-15-17, 09:30 AM
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... or, have you checked the chain line?
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06-15-17, 11:09 AM
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Original bottom bracket, chain line is fine, cable is taut.
06-15-17, 11:16 AM
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It's billed as a triple for road, not the ATB bikes.
Last edited by 3speedslow; 06-15-17 at 11:20 AM. Reason: Auto misquote
06-15-17, 11:55 AM
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What would be the difference...tubing size? (The frame is a '91 Schwinn Crosscut hybrid.)
In rechecking the bottom bracket, I do notice a 5mm difference in the distance the crank arms are from the down tube. Might I have installed the axle wrong? I believe I put the longer portion on the drive side, as usual, but now I am wondering if that may be the problem.
Can anyone tell from the pic if the amount of axle showing is normal?
In rechecking the bottom bracket, I do notice a 5mm difference in the distance the crank arms are from the down tube. Might I have installed the axle wrong? I believe I put the longer portion on the drive side, as usual, but now I am wondering if that may be the problem.
Can anyone tell from the pic if the amount of axle showing is normal?
06-15-17, 12:16 PM
#8
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There is no normal really. Can you take a pic from the other side? It would be useful to know how much clearance there is between the small chainring and the chainstay. That's important. If this is a new or different crank on the same BB, then it's quite possible the spindle is the wrong length.
Also, check clearance between the pedal ends of the cranks and the chainstays. They ideally should be about the same on both sides.
Also, check clearance between the pedal ends of the cranks and the chainstays. They ideally should be about the same on both sides.
06-15-17, 12:24 PM
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[QUOTE=67tony;19655526]What would be the difference...tubing size? (The frame is a '91 Schwinn Crosscut hybrid.)
In rechecking the bottom bracket, I do notice a 5mm difference in the distance the crank arms are from the down tube. Might I have installed the axle wrong? I believe I put the longer portion on the drive side, as usual, but now I am wondering if that may be the problem.
Can anyone tell from the pic if the amount of axle showing is normal?
Certainly could be the issue. Looks life if you swap the axle, it would pull the crank in a just a touch, enough to gain enough to throw on to the 3rd ring. Worth a shot!
In rechecking the bottom bracket, I do notice a 5mm difference in the distance the crank arms are from the down tube. Might I have installed the axle wrong? I believe I put the longer portion on the drive side, as usual, but now I am wondering if that may be the problem.
Can anyone tell from the pic if the amount of axle showing is normal?
Certainly could be the issue. Looks life if you swap the axle, it would pull the crank in a just a touch, enough to gain enough to throw on to the 3rd ring. Worth a shot!
06-15-17, 12:36 PM
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Right or wrong doesn't matter if flipping the spindle makes it work better. I've done it.
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06-15-17, 01:07 PM
#11
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Yeah, try flipping it if you can. If it makes the cranks more evenly spaced, and the small chainring isn't scraping the chainstay, you're golden.
Looks like the adjusting side has an extra thick ring so perhaps this particular BB is bassackwards.
Looks like the adjusting side has an extra thick ring so perhaps this particular BB is bassackwards.
06-15-17, 01:16 PM
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I run into this problem all of the time.
Road derailleurs won't work on mountain bikes. They have limited movement, regardless of how far you unscrew the limit screw. The chainline is wrong. (Mountain derailleurs are "centered" further away from the center of the downtube. aka it has a larger chain line.)
You really need a different type of derailleur. You can mess with it as much as you want but seriously, do yourself a favor, buy a mountain derailleur that has the right chainline. (Or put a smaller BB spindle on the bike.)
Also, all searches I try involving the FD-1056 say it's a DOUBLE derailleur, not a triple. That would also be your problem. Unless you swapped the cage on it... I'd say it's made for a double.
Swapping the direction of the BB spindle is just going to push everything toward the left side of the bike. It's technically wrong to put it with the long side on the NDS. Especially just to fix a FD.
The most notable bike I've run into this issue with was an old Schwinn MOAB with a hollowtech BB. It didn't originally come with hollowtech, and finding a FD that had the right clamp diameter AND had enough reach was impossible. I EVENTUALLY fudged it for the guy by attaching the cable slightly differently so it pulled just a bit more every time. It right, but the guy wanted it to work NOW.
EDIT: Very pretty color though, nice paintjob... pic of the whole bike?
Road derailleurs won't work on mountain bikes. They have limited movement, regardless of how far you unscrew the limit screw. The chainline is wrong. (Mountain derailleurs are "centered" further away from the center of the downtube. aka it has a larger chain line.)
You really need a different type of derailleur. You can mess with it as much as you want but seriously, do yourself a favor, buy a mountain derailleur that has the right chainline. (Or put a smaller BB spindle on the bike.)
Also, all searches I try involving the FD-1056 say it's a DOUBLE derailleur, not a triple. That would also be your problem. Unless you swapped the cage on it... I'd say it's made for a double.
Swapping the direction of the BB spindle is just going to push everything toward the left side of the bike. It's technically wrong to put it with the long side on the NDS. Especially just to fix a FD.
The most notable bike I've run into this issue with was an old Schwinn MOAB with a hollowtech BB. It didn't originally come with hollowtech, and finding a FD that had the right clamp diameter AND had enough reach was impossible. I EVENTUALLY fudged it for the guy by attaching the cable slightly differently so it pulled just a bit more every time. It right, but the guy wanted it to work NOW.
EDIT: Very pretty color though, nice paintjob... pic of the whole bike?
Last edited by corrado33; 06-15-17 at 01:23 PM.
06-15-17, 01:43 PM
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All great replies, thanks for the advice!
I first tried flipping the axle (121mm, btw), which resulted in the bolts of the granny ring brushing the frame.
Next, I tried a 119mm axle, which I luckily had, and that seems to have done the trick!
Thanks again!
I first tried flipping the axle (121mm, btw), which resulted in the bolts of the granny ring brushing the frame.
Next, I tried a 119mm axle, which I luckily had, and that seems to have done the trick!
Thanks again!
06-15-17, 02:23 PM
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The paint looks mint (literally?) Original paint? If so... wow!
06-15-17, 04:04 PM
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The frame was sand-blasted and powder-coated...
06-16-17, 02:50 AM
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According to VeloBase.com the triple front derailleur is 1057.
VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano FD-1057, 105SC
VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano FD-1057, 105SC
06-16-17, 06:03 AM
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My father in law has a 92 Criss Cross that I want to PC and do with 60s Schwinn decals. And conveniently leaving off the "Criss Cross" name.
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