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Shogun 400 with Unigide question

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Shogun 400 with Unigide question

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Old 08-06-17, 08:44 AM
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Shogun 400 with Unigide question

Working on a Shogun 400 to sell on CL. Nothing special, lots of scrapes & some rust. Be lucky to get $100.00 in my area when done. Champion no. 5 tubing.

It has 6 speed 36h Uniglide freehub, with a straight shell. Kind of like 600 ax per VeloBase.
Date code is GL. Cassette is 13-32.
Araya 27 x 1 1/4'' rims.

Is this worth selling separately? I have other wheels to substitute. I know the rims are nothing interesting, just wondering on the hubs. I have looked on eBay, but I want real world opinions.

Thanks

Because pictures are required:

[IMG]IMG_0934 by lebagman, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_0935 by lebagman, on Flickr[/IMG]

Drive side hub seal
[IMG]IMG_0923 by lebagman, on Flickr[/IMG]
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Old 08-06-17, 09:25 AM
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The hubs are low end 620 series, often paired Z-series derailleurs and brakes. The nutted rear axle and skewer nut style and are the relevant identifiers. Assuming the rims are open (U) section, I wouldn't bother marketing the wheels separately.
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Old 08-06-17, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by T-Mar
The hubs are low end 620 series, often paired Z-series derailleurs and brakes. The nutted rear axle and skewer nut style and are the relevant identifiers. Assuming the rims are open (U) section, I wouldn't bother marketing the wheels separately.
Thanks. I did not see 620 on VB, doesn't mean it is not there.

Altus f & r derailleurs & stem shifters.

I know I'm a fool for working on a bike like this, but I can't help admiring how decent they are. Hope some student want's a basic ride.
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Old 08-06-17, 11:23 AM
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I have a Shogun like yours that I got for free at the reuse it shed at the dump; I've changed some components with salvaged parts, and now it is a beater or a bike I ride for errands. But I also think that it would make a nice inexpensive touring bike. I took my first long tour many years ago on a lesser bike. I don't mind leaving it locked outside while I shop or something. It wouldn't be a disaster if it were stolen.
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Old 08-07-17, 11:58 AM
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These early, straight-center freehubs were one of a few problematic designs introduced by Shimano over the years.

The hubshell had a long, integral snout, onto which the freehub body was slid on to engage a shallow spline of the sort used to this day.

So there was no hollow bolt holding the freehub body on, instead they swaged the end of the snout into tight contact with the inner shell of the freehub body.

This swaging tended to loosen, which then made the axle bearing process problematic, as one couldn't tell how much of the resulting free-play was emanating from the axle bearings vs. the loose-fitting freehub body which itself contained the drive-side axle bearing cup.

Not much of a problem once the wheel was clamped into the frame, but an iterative process of rounds of adjustment followed by re-installation of the wheel seemed to be needed to arrive at an optimal axle bearing adjustment.

Not all of these hubs loosened up in this way, but perhaps half of them did.

Dura-Ace from the beginning used a coarse-threaded snout integral with the inner shell of the freehub body itself, later updated to the more contemporary hollow bolt when 7700 series arrived in 1997. So no Dura-Ace freehubs were affected by this malady, and the swaging process was out of use by the early 80's on the lesser models.

Thanks for the close-op photo of the plastic dust cap, I'd always thought these Z-level hubs were called model 60, but I can clearly see that 6D is the designation on your clean parts. This level of hubs was perhaps the most common on the many 600 Arabesque builds that went out the door roughly around 1980.

There were also lesser 3pc steel-hubshell versions offered with 5 and perhaps 6s UG cassettes.
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Old 08-14-17, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dddd
These early, straight-center freehubs were one of a few problematic designs introduced by Shimano over the years.

The hubshell had a long, integral snout, onto which the freehub body was slid on to engage a shallow spline of the sort used to this day.

So there was no hollow bolt holding the freehub body on, instead they swaged the end of the snout into tight contact with the inner shell of the freehub body.

This swaging tended to loosen, which then made the axle bearing process problematic, as one couldn't tell how much of the resulting free-play was emanating from the axle bearings vs. the loose-fitting freehub body which itself contained the drive-side axle bearing cup.

Not much of a problem once the wheel was clamped into the frame, but an iterative process of rounds of adjustment followed by re-installation of the wheel seemed to be needed to arrive at an optimal axle bearing adjustment.

Not all of these hubs loosened up in this way, but perhaps half of them did.

Dura-Ace from the beginning used a coarse-threaded snout integral with the inner shell of the freehub body itself, later updated to the more contemporary hollow bolt when 7700 series arrived in 1997. So no Dura-Ace freehubs were affected by this malady, and the swaging process was out of use by the early 80's on the lesser models.

Thanks for the close-op photo of the plastic dust cap, I'd always thought these Z-level hubs were called model 60, but I can clearly see that 6D is the designation on your clean parts. This level of hubs was perhaps the most common on the many 600 Arabesque builds that went out the door roughly around 1980.

There were also lesser 3pc steel-hubshell versions offered with 5 and perhaps 6s UG cassettes.
I found out just what you mean today. I took a second one apart to service and the hub fell off. The one that I referred to on the Shogun was tight.

Thank you for your info.

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