oglala_1927

Ok here goes! My Raleigh Grand Prix project is getting underway and I'll need some help from fellow menbers
1) My BB set is English made, sez so!
2) I have a Sugino crankset available. Will it interchange? Without measuring, they are both small size BB's
3) what size thinwall socket do I need to take the Sugino crank arms off?
4) Will stem shifters work as downtube shifters?
Thanks for any and all comments. oglala_1927

USAZorro

1 - Yes indeed.
2 - Not sure about the spindle length, but everything else should fit without problem.
3 - If you have a crank puller, the socket that's part of the tool shoudlwork fine.
4 - Almost certainly won't. The downtube is a different diameter. SunTour Downtube shift levers shouldn't be too hard to find though - and not terribly expensive either. If I had a spare set...

Good luck.

Noah Scape

In addition to matching the spindle length requirements of your new crankset, older GPs (pre-'77 or so) came with a cottered crank. If yours is cottered and you're replacing it with a cotterless you'll need a different spindle for that change.

USAZorro

You're obviously right. I leapt to the conclusion that crankset included the bottom bracket and spindle.

T-Mar

English manufactured bottom bracket fittings do not not necessarily equate to English threading, when it comes to Raleigh framesets. Most vintage Raleighs used proprietary 1-3/8" x 26 TPI BB threading, which is incompatible with the 1.370 x 24 TPI English standard thread. However, the Raleigh frames with Reynolds 531 frames made by Carlton did use the 1.370 x 24 TPI thread. If the threading is not marked on the cups, the easiest way to tell, is to measure the width of the bottom bracket shell. Shells threaded for 26TPI are generally 71-76mm wide, while shells for 24 TPI are typically 68mm wide. See https://www.sheldonbrown.com/raleigh26.html for an excellent article on converting Raleighs with 26 TPI threading.

Depending on the model of Sugino crankset, it will require either a 14mm or 15mm socket. Generally, if it has a retaining nut, as opposed to a bolt, it will require a 14mm socket, while the bolts use 15mm require sockets.

mswantak

While not a 531 frame, the Grand Prix was also built by Carlton and has the 1.370 x 24 TPI bottom bracket.

T-Mar

The Grand Prix frames were built by several different facilities. The threading will depend on which facility built the frame.

oglala_1927

Things are going good!!! Getting readty to start the repaint part. Any clues on how to protect the head badge when repainting short of removing it? It's a Raleigh so taping it would be to be one way but a lot of work. Thanks, oglala

DiegoFrogs

Do you really have any other options? I mean, aside from painting right over the badge? It's not really all that hard: A big piece of 3M blue painters tape (probably a 5" strip off of a 1" roll), and a little skill with an exacto knife will be all that it takes... I guess you could make someone else do it, that's usually easy...

mswantak

Yeah, bite the bullet and mask it off. Your alternatives are drilling the rivets out from the outside or chiseling them off from inside the head tube. Then in either case you've got to find a way to reattach it afterwards.

T-Mar

There is a product sold in many hobby shops called Microscale Micro Mask. It's a latex based, liquid masking medium that you brush on and dries to a rubbery skin. It's great for masking intricate shapes like headbages. After you spray the frame and it has dried, you just peel the mask off. However, the mask may react with different types of paints, so test on some scrap, before you use it on your frame. A 1 fluid ounce bottle generally costs about $2.50.

mswantak

Micro-Mask would work, but there again you've either got to mask what you don't want it on, or be pretty handy with a brush.

oglala_1927

Help!! Won a suntour Cyclone MII Rear derailleur, BUT, the nut for the shift cable screw is missing. I don't have a clue as to what the nut looks like, not a standard nut for sure! I would guess it is round and slotted for a screw driver, or phillips screw driver or an allen wrench, not an item one would find in a hardware store. Please enlighten me!!!!! thanks, oglala

oglala_1927

Hey! Finally finished my rebuild project on my Raleigh grand Prix. I'd like to show the before and after pictures. Any help to get them on the forum would be helpful. Thanks oglala.

mswantak

E-mail them to me and I'll put them right up.

oglala_1927

I hope it doesn't cost me $4!!!!!

mswantak

I'm so embarrassed...

SCHWEET BIKE, FRANK!

oglala_1927

Thanks for the help mswantak!
Updates include:
Alloy wheels,
Dia-compe side pull brakes,
Suntour cyclone II F&R derailleurs;
No name thumb shifters!
Sugino 40/52 crankset,
Persons saddle,
and of course, decals by mswantak.
Rides nice! Amazingly, I have 6 bikes and they all have their own charateristics.
A 2-speed, a 3-speed, a 5-speed, 2 10-speeds and a 12-speed.
T'was a great experience.

nova

Just to add threading is diffrent on the bb cups. You will need to have a set made or mre thread a new set or reuse your old. Warning on useing the old ones you will where through them fast. You will like need to have the spindle turned for the new crank its just a hair to lone at the races (or it was on mine at least.) The bb is about the only thing that will give you the least bit of trouble. I had a 130 mm width rim on the rear of my bike and it was set up for 120. It didnt even phase the frame. Thats a 10 mm total diffrence after riding the bike with the rim for about 3 months i took it off to change a tire and the frames spaceing was right back to 120. The old raleigh frames are just awesome. Im going to redo my 73 asap to mechanical perfection then paint and decal time

Id say youd be hard pressed to find a better bike to redo and modernise from back then.

USAZorro

oglala. Is your fork bent? It doesn't seem to match the head tube.

oglala_1927

Yikes! Zorro you are right, it does look odd. Now what? It seems to ride ok. When I reassembled it, new bearings and it went together nicely and turns freely. Just a shorter wheel base?

USAZorro

You might be ok, but if there's any sign of wobbling up front, be sure to get off the bike ASAP, check the head tube closely, and consider finding a replacement fork.

mswantak

I thought I noticed that bend too, but I didn't want to put a damper on Frank's debut. Those forks are made of 20-30 high-tensile; I've had worse bends straightened out the LBS, but it is a common fork that several manufacturers used. Just make sure the steering tube is the correct length.

oglala_1927

And I just trashed a Motobecane, it's fork may have worked! I'll be lookin, maybe some member will be able to help me out

mswantak

Let us know how long that steering tube is. You can cut down a longer one too, provided it leaves enough threads to tighten the headset.