Shimano 105 shifters: SL-1050. 6speed or 7speed?
#1
Unique Vintage Steel
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Shimano 105 shifters: SL-1050. 6speed or 7speed?
Ok, call me a noob to indexed shifters, but I have to pose this question.
I have a pair of Shimano 105 downtube shifters that are model SL-1050. I need to know if they are 6speed or 7speed... because honestly, I can't tell by messing with them. Starting from the furtherest 'forward' position I get 6 clicks as I move backwards. So I'm inclined to say they are 7speed (first + six = 7 total). But everything I've seen online about the SL-1050's claim to be 6speed.
Please Advise before I spend any unneeded $$! Thanks all in advance.
I have a pair of Shimano 105 downtube shifters that are model SL-1050. I need to know if they are 6speed or 7speed... because honestly, I can't tell by messing with them. Starting from the furtherest 'forward' position I get 6 clicks as I move backwards. So I'm inclined to say they are 7speed (first + six = 7 total). But everything I've seen online about the SL-1050's claim to be 6speed.
Please Advise before I spend any unneeded $$! Thanks all in advance.
#2
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OK, I'll muddy the waters completely.
If my reading is correct, the SL-1050 is about the same vintage as the 7400 series Dura Ace. They could be set up in either 6 or 7 speed variant, depending on the internals for the right lever. I wouldn't be surprised if the 105 was the same.
Syke
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If my reading is correct, the SL-1050 is about the same vintage as the 7400 series Dura Ace. They could be set up in either 6 or 7 speed variant, depending on the internals for the right lever. I wouldn't be surprised if the 105 was the same.
Syke
Deranged Few M/C
#3
Unique Vintage Steel
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I was afraid of that...
The 1050's were made in 88/89 from what I have found.
So the question boils down to, what's a good way of determining exactly how many speeds the shifter is setup for if you have it in front of you but without a wheel to 'test' it so to speak?
The 1050's were made in 88/89 from what I have found.
So the question boils down to, what's a good way of determining exactly how many speeds the shifter is setup for if you have it in front of you but without a wheel to 'test' it so to speak?
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Originally Posted by cuda2k
I was afraid of that...
The 1050's were made in 88/89 from what I have found.
So the question boils down to, what's a good way of determining exactly how many speeds the shifter is setup for if you have it in front of you but without a wheel to 'test' it so to speak?
The 1050's were made in 88/89 from what I have found.
So the question boils down to, what's a good way of determining exactly how many speeds the shifter is setup for if you have it in front of you but without a wheel to 'test' it so to speak?
#5
Unique Vintage Steel
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So, there are six 'clicks' plus the additional movement beyond the last 'click' Humph...
#6
Unique Vintage Steel
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It's a 6speed me thinks now. Which is actually good - I can keep my current wheel and reuse a 6sp freewheel I've got laying around with low miles on it. I think this schwinn may just make me lose my mind. But on a good note - the headset has a bearing holder instead of true loose BB's. And the adjustable cone on the BB looks like she'll come out pretty easily. Overhaul both of those tomorrow, then clean and wax it. Thanks for the reality check everyone.
#7
Death fork? Naaaah!!
I wouldn't be so quick to give up on 7 speed. It's really no big deal to re-space and dish the wheel. All you need is a little faith in yourself.....and a spoke wrench
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#8
Unique Vintage Steel
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Problem with the 7speed plan is that the axel isn't long enough to handle the needed spacers. Even if I moved the whole axel down to compensate for the spacers on one side only, I'd still be reducing the length of axel beyond the hub by more than half. If I've got shifters here that are 6speed, and have a 6speed freewheel, which will work with the existing wheel - then 6speed is what I'll be rolling for a while. Makes my life less complicated at the moment.
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I still don't see how those are six speed shifters, if, like you say in post #1, you started at one extreme and shifted through the motions, and counted six clicks. Maybe I'm misunderstanding and you're counting the first position as a "click", before moving the shifter?
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I got a manual.....
SL-1050 is 6 spd. 1055 is 7, but works with 6 (there's a litle clip that attaches to the side of the rr shifter to stop the last shift.
They'll index with freewheel and cassette (6 spd).
In friction you should be able to get 7 I'd think.
SL-1050 is 6 spd. 1055 is 7, but works with 6 (there's a litle clip that attaches to the side of the rr shifter to stop the last shift.
They'll index with freewheel and cassette (6 spd).
In friction you should be able to get 7 I'd think.
#11
Unique Vintage Steel
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well biked - I was either counting wrong, confusing myself (and everyone else in the process) or just plain crazy initially. As Malcolms states - they are 6speed. Thanks for confirming the answer from the manual for me.
Now... anyone know how many speeds a SL-6400 downtube is supposed to be? (ducks)
Now... anyone know how many speeds a SL-6400 downtube is supposed to be? (ducks)
#13
Unique Vintage Steel
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Yeah, the axel is probably a cheap part, but since I"ve got 6sp freewheel, and 6sp shifters right now, I'll pair them up in a working system as is for the time being. I'll screw with 7speed later.
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SL-6400 7 spd.
6 with the clip mentioned above or without the clip just set the der. stop to prevent the last shift.
I believe, from the info that I have, that the spacing between cogs is the same for 6 or 7 speed (at least Shimano). I may be wrong though.
6 with the clip mentioned above or without the clip just set the der. stop to prevent the last shift.
I believe, from the info that I have, that the spacing between cogs is the same for 6 or 7 speed (at least Shimano). I may be wrong though.
#15
Unique Vintage Steel
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I placed the 6speed and 7speed freewheels side by side last night and it's fairly easy to see that the spacing on 7 is slightly less than the 6speed. The 7speed isn't *much* higher than the 6speed but fits an extra cog in there.
On the SL-6400: I have seen refrences online to SL-6400 8speed shifters (STI and downtubes) but they certainly could have an 6,7,8sp internals version of the same shifter. The 6400's are sitting on my Gazelle right now and are shifting the 8speed cassette in indexed mode. I have had an odd shift from time to time so I guess I'll investigate that situation further tonight.
-- me thinks maybe I should just switch all the shifters to friction and tell indexing to jump of a @$%# bridge.
On the SL-6400: I have seen refrences online to SL-6400 8speed shifters (STI and downtubes) but they certainly could have an 6,7,8sp internals version of the same shifter. The 6400's are sitting on my Gazelle right now and are shifting the 8speed cassette in indexed mode. I have had an odd shift from time to time so I guess I'll investigate that situation further tonight.
-- me thinks maybe I should just switch all the shifters to friction and tell indexing to jump of a @$%# bridge.
#16
Death fork? Naaaah!!
Originally Posted by cuda2k
I placed the 6speed and 7speed freewheels side by side last night and it's fairly easy to see that the spacing on 7 is slightly less than the 6speed. The 7speed isn't *much* higher than the 6speed but fits an extra cog in there.
Originally Posted by cuda2k
-- me thinks maybe I should just switch all the shifters to friction and tell indexing to jump of a @$%# bridge.
Now and again I have been known to switch to friction, just to keep my hand in.....
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Now comes a funny thought regarding index vs. friction: When I run my '62 Raleigh Gran Sport (Campy Gran Sport drivetrain), I only use my right hand on either lever. I find it very easy to shift the rear and automatically adjust the front lever using my finger tips while settling the rear into the proper final position. This is a technique that came back to me from 30 years ago - I was surprised I still remembered it.
Switch me over to my Rossin (Dura Ace 6-speed levers with 600 derailleurs), and I absolutely have to use the left hand on the front derailleur lever. Happily the FD is nowhere near as touchy as the Campy and is basically a two position switch. But I cannot do it one handed. There's just something very clunky about the newer Shimano setup.
Syke
Deranged Few M/C
Switch me over to my Rossin (Dura Ace 6-speed levers with 600 derailleurs), and I absolutely have to use the left hand on the front derailleur lever. Happily the FD is nowhere near as touchy as the Campy and is basically a two position switch. But I cannot do it one handed. There's just something very clunky about the newer Shimano setup.
Syke
Deranged Few M/C
#18
Unique Vintage Steel
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Thanks for all the feedback everyone. I've got the Schwinn running great now with the 6speed freewheel out back. I'll be posting photos of the completed rig in the thread I started about the bike a few days ago (and I'll bump it back up to the top of the page after I get the photos added).
My 'Cuda is pure friction shifting, and up till a few weeks ago (ok, maybe 2months now) so was the Gazelle. The 'Cuda can be a bit picky about how well I shift some times, but for the most part I'm fairly good at nailing the shifts if I'm not going all out or hammering up a hill. Though, I must admit, I don't shift as much on that bike as I do on the Gazelle now that I have the indexed shifting working.
My 'Cuda is pure friction shifting, and up till a few weeks ago (ok, maybe 2months now) so was the Gazelle. The 'Cuda can be a bit picky about how well I shift some times, but for the most part I'm fairly good at nailing the shifts if I'm not going all out or hammering up a hill. Though, I must admit, I don't shift as much on that bike as I do on the Gazelle now that I have the indexed shifting working.