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Old 09-16-06, 06:48 PM   #1
Klink
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Twist it back?

I was broadsided by a burly Chevy pickup. I was hoping my frame was in fine shape because only my fork at the time seemed slightly bent. Managed to get $125 from the fellow who nailed me (ironically his name is Dick) but when I swung by the bike shop much to my dismay he showed me how to spot a twist in the frame.

Looking along the TT using the HT to eyeball its alignment with the ST, you'll notice a quarter inch twist along the length of the ST. I was heart-broken.

This bike means a great deal to me. It's a 1973 61cm Peuget handed down to me by my father a year or so ago and I've gotten a good 1,000 miles plus on it. I use it to commute, do longer rides (50 to 75 miles) around the area or just provide a way to get from point A to B when under the influence. It's heavy as hell and I love it.

The components on it are quality components and are in fine shape. Need a new right crank arm, fork and possibly front derailleur. My father and I also recently stripped the frame down, cleaned and polished the components and had the frame and fork custom powdercoated. All luglining and striping was done by myself by hand.

This leaves me with 2 options:
1) Pull the plug and let the frame drift off to where all good frames go. Outfit a smaller, heavier, Motobecane (59cm) with the components from my current bike, in addition to buying replacements for the busted bits. I wouldn't be able to afford a powdercoat. The benefit? A straight and sturdy ride.

2) Take it back to the LBS and see if they can work magic on the frame. The owner walked me through how he bends frames via an outdated process. This would be $50-$100 depending on the amount of work required to achieve the end result. I can get a new fork for $30 and crank arm for $20. The downside? It wouldn't ride the same and if put under any further stress (getting hit again) would most likely buckle the tubing.

The LBS owner recommended the former.

Any recommendations, insight, experience, advice is greatly appreciated.
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Old 09-17-06, 07:02 AM   #2
skyrider
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Sorry about your frame post , a similar question in framebuilders forum they may have some insight. Good luck.
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Old 09-17-06, 02:59 PM   #3
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If it were me, I would measure the twist first by laying the frame on its side and then shimming the frame until a spirit level on the HT read level. Transfer the spirit level to the ST and if its off substantially, I would put a long piece of pipe in the HT and a long 2X4 into the diamond of the frame and gently bend it.

Also, check the rest of the frame alignment using Sheldon Browns string method.

If it breaks, oh well, you were going to junk it anyway, right?
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Old 09-17-06, 08:42 PM   #4
Klink
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Quote:
Originally Posted by San Rensho
If it were me, I would measure the twist first by laying the frame on its side and then shimming the frame until a spirit level on the HT read level. Transfer the spirit level to the ST and if its off substantially, I would put a long piece of pipe in the HT and a long 2X4 into the diamond of the frame and gently bend it.

Also, check the rest of the frame alignment using Sheldon Browns string method.

If it breaks, oh well, you were going to junk it anyway, right?
Thanks for the tip. I can't imagine why I hadn't thought to look it up on Sheldon Brown.

And junk it is bit of a harsh way to put it. This baby deserves a memorial hanging upon my wall. Candles and all.
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Old 09-18-06, 05:17 AM   #5
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If the frame is only tweaked out of alignment, you should be able to tweak it back. Steel is pretty forgiving. If there are any creases or wrinkles in the tubing, then you would have to replace the tube, which probably wouldn't be worth it for this bike. Like was said earlier, you have nothing to lose by trying.
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Old 09-18-06, 10:05 AM   #6
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Metal has memory. It want's to be straight again. I say you try and do it yourself, then move to option #1 if it doesn't work out.
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