How to make bar-ends work visually with a mustache bar?
I'm reckoning to convert from drop bars and downtube shifters to mustache bars and, if I can figure out a way for them to look neat, bar-ends. I'd like to do cork handgrips and generally tart the bike up to look 'genteel'. But I can't envision what to do with the cables coming out of the bar-ends. With drop bars one can simply do a mummy wrap and it all looks as per spec. But that doesn't work so well with non-drop bars, which seem only to look traditional when naked. I suppose I could use cable ties (yukk). But surely someone else has already solved the problem in an elegant way?
Did you check rivbike.com? They do that a lot. You have to slot the cork grips for the cables. You can then lay the cables in the slots in a bed of silicone or Gorilla Glue.
You'll have to use Nashbar steel moustache bars if you want to use both bar end shifters and cork grips.
Edit: That won't work either. The problem is that cork grips only fit 7/8" bars and bar end shifters don't. The only exception I know of is the steel or cold forged Albatross from Rivendell. I've been tempted to try grinding down the mounts on some bar end shifters so they'll fit in a 7/8" bar.
I just took off my drop bars and added period style moustache bars and used the aero brake levers set about 6" from center and wrapped them with handlebar tape. Braking takes place as if you were riding "on the hoods" I'm going with stem shifters to replace the downtube shifters, easier for an old geezer. I used a mountain type stem to get the bars up so I'm riding more upright. Looks kinda funky but it suits me!
I prefer having my cables hidden until further out to the bend. I have mine set to exit the wrap near the brake levers. This allows me to use just about any hand position without hitting the cables.
Here's a horrible shot but perhaps you can "see" it Well, probably not, the image stinks. http://home.comcast.net/~pinnah/dirt...s/trek-311.JPG
Two bit of advice that are often repeated and very, very true.
1) You will want to raise those bars and go with a shorter stem than for drop bars. The Nitto Technomic should almost be considered a must have.
2) Leave the bars unwrapped for a month or so if you can. You'll likely end up moving the bars and levers a bunch to find the right spot for you. M-bars are pretty unforgiving if the set up is not just right for you.
Until Dirtdrop mentioned slicing out a channel for the cable through the cork grips (which I doubt I'd ever have thought of, to be truthful) I couldn't make out how Doug Shaker had done these, which is pretty much the look I'm after:
It won't work with a moustache bar because the grips won't fit. I don't like the idea of slotting the grips, but you've got to make room for the cables. Whatever you do, glue the grips on or you're gonna get hurt.
I like the cork grips. I'm going to stain my next set to match an antique brown Brooks and then shellac them.
Here's how I avoided slotting the grips on my wife's new 1982 Fuji Mixte: