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  1. #1
    Senior Member jonwvara's Avatar
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    Gracefully Aged Rattlecan Paint

    I've seen a number of posted photos of rattlecan paint jobs, usually with messages like "just finished my new paint job--it looks great." Fine, but do rattlecan paint jobs look still look okay once the painter is no longer high on fumes? Seriously, I'd think they would not tend to age well. For all the photos of good-looking new paint jobs, is there anyone out there who can post photos of a rattlecan paint job with, say, 2 years and a few thousand miles on it that still looks good? I'll believe it when I see it, and maybe not even then. Most rattlecan paint jobs that I've seen (admittedly not on bikes, for the most part) seem to chip if you bang them moderately hard with a wren feather.
    Anyone have long-term good results? Or do you call it a success if it looks okay for a few days?
    Jon

  2. #2
    \,,/(^_^)\,,/ new_dharma's Avatar
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    my Surly was chipped after 2 years...and I use black automotive tuch-up paint (with the small brush) to "fix" the chips...looks horrid up close, but I don't care
    You know you're getting old when you look at a beautiful 19-year-old girl and you find yourself thinking, "Gee, I wonder what her mother looks like?"

  3. #3
    Forum Admin lotek's Avatar
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    look for photo's of Cuda2k's blue "cuda"
    rattle can paint that looks as good today as it did when he painted it.
    Sono pił lento di quel che sembra.
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  4. #4
    Senior Member cyclotoine's Avatar
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    I put a hell of a lot of time in properly stripping and priming and painting and clearcoating a bike with rattlecan automotive paint. I mad a mistake when I ran out of yellow and bought engine enamel to finish the job. That was a mistake, it didn't agree with the clear in a few places and sort of wrinkled up. Wasn't too bad. However it chipped, as you say, with a moderate touch from a wren feather. I sold the bike because I was sick of it and had since aquired better bikes, besides I only really wanted the seat. In the end if I learned on thing it is the the metallic paints are infinitely easier to apply, look infinately better and (my limited time with the bike considered) seemed more durable.
    1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear

  5. #5
    Unique Vintage Steel cuda2k's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lotek
    look for photo's of Cuda2k's blue "cuda"
    rattle can paint that looks as good today as it did when he painted it.


    More recently taken photos can be seen here: Barracuda Mk.I gets a new top side.

    It does look great even after a year, 750mi on the road and getting caught in a couple rain showers.
    Last edited by cuda2k; 12-13-06 at 10:30 PM.
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  6. #6
    If I own it, I ride it CV-6's Avatar
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    Approximately 20 years after rattle can. Primed, painted, then clear coated. Of course it got scratched and had chips, but what 20 year old paint job on a ridden bike does not?
    Lynn Travers

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    Finder's fee paid for info leading to purchase of Lejeune 753 Champ du Monde 53-54cm ctc

  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    I have a 78 Paramount with factory paint on it and if you look at it cross eyed it chips, I have a clear coated rattle can Trek that is far more durable than that, so maybe it depends on individual paint jobs more than what the paint came out of.

  8. #8
    The Improbable Bulk Little Darwin's Avatar
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    I am thinking of doing a rattle can job.

    From what I have read in the forum, I am relatively confident that with proper paint selection, preparation and curing that it will be just fine.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Little Darwin
    I am thinking of doing a rattle can job.

    From what I have read in the forum, I am relatively confident that with proper paint selection, preparation and curing that it will be just fine.
    Duplicolor Truck Van & Suv works really well, and the clear coat that goes with it.

  10. #10
    "Purgatory Central" Wino Ryder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Little Darwin
    I am thinking of doing a rattle can job.

    From what I have read in the forum, I am relatively confident that with proper paint selection, preparation and curing that it will be just fine.


    +1

    Its really all in the preparation, using a good quality rattle can paint, and taking your time. As long as the prep is good for proper paint adhesion, and proper curing like 'little Darwin' mentioned, you can produce a very good and durable paint job.

  11. #11
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    I sprayed my Raleigh with Rustoleum rattlecan black. It's very soft and chips and scratches easily. On the upside though, touchup is easy -- just spritz with a little more paint. If you're going for the "semi-respectable beater" look, I recommend it.

    On thing that I have heard (but have not tried), is that automotive paint stores can mix proper automotive paint and put it in a rattle can for you. I've heard that they don't like to do it because it's a PITA, but apparently many can. Most auto paint is catalysed -- that means it will harden in the can after some short (measured in hours) time, so the technique would be: 1. Strip and prep bike 2. Prime bike 3. Go to store and get paint made 4. Quick-like-a-bunny rush home and paint bike.

    There are also little spray setups in which you can mix your paint, dump it in, charge it up (using something similar to a CO2 cartridge), and spray. Auto paint stores have them. I forget what they're called....
    1970 Raleigh Record (my first "real" bike and current rider)
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  12. #12
    Chrome Freak Rabid Koala's Avatar
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    If you are going to have automotive paint mixed, it isn't terribly difficult to spray with one of those cheap little "touch up" spray guns. I have used them with pretty good results on a couple of paint jobs. They work just fine with a small compressor.

    Of course, if you have no compressor then I guess you won't want to try it.
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  13. #13
    Senior Member sykerocker's Avatar
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    When I tore my Raleigh down to build the Magneet, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the only chips on the frame were from where the components bolted on. And those weren't all that bad, either. The bike was up 16 months and approximately 1000 miles.

    I guess I got preparation, and cleanliness down right. Now I've got to work on shiny finish.
    Syke

    "No wonder we keep testing positive in their bicycle races. Everyone looks like they're full of testosterone when they're surrounded by Frenchmen." ---Argus Hamilton

  14. #14
    Glutton for Punishment
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazyb
    Duplicolor Truck Van & Suv works really well, and the clear coat that goes with it.
    +1 on that. I've always had better luck with DupliColor than any other brand. One of the biggest things you can do to ensure a good result is after you've painted and clearcoated the frame, be patient, set it aside for 10 to 14 days, and find something else to occupy yourself with. Rattlecan paint doesn't have any reducer in it like body shop paint, so it takes longer to completely set up. I've hosed more decent paint jobs than you can shake a stir stick at because I was all in a tear to get it bolted back together.

  15. #15
    *****es love tarck kemmer's Avatar
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    The most important thing is that you have to clean the parts to be painted properly. If there is any dust or oil on it, the paint won't stick right. Good paint is really important too. If you just sand it and wipe it off with a rag and go to town with a can of wal-mart brand x paint, you are sure to be disappointed.

    Done properly, you can get a nice piant job that will last for years.

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