Stripped it. Sanded it. Primed it. Now what?
Did two coats of primer. Automotive grey.
Do I sand the primer?
How long to dry/set before I paint? Planning on a glossy black.
It's dry and cold (50's) here in the Central Valley.
Unique Vintage Steel
a light wetsanding of the primer would be advisable once the primer has dried throughly (see can for directions for curing time). I forget what grit I used when I painted the cuda, but I'm going to say a 600-800 is probably good if you have a light hand. Mostly you want to take out any imperfections in the primer but not smooth the paint to the point where your color won't stick properly. I ended up wet sanding between each coat of primer but that's likely overkill and I ended up sanding through the primer in several areas forcing me to do additional primer work.
Sanding probably is in order, assuming laquer based sandable primer, do not be surprised if spot touch ups are required at the lug edges. 400 or 600 wet, not dry, wash after, prepsol or similar unless you really have dry hands, typical hand oils will often start a fish eye, or poor adhesion.
50 degrees... gloss black, probably rattle can.... not good for a smooth finish, most cans will state a preferred temp range, 70 degrees F is usually the min. I would only attempt it iff the frame had been normalized to a warmer temp, near the heater in the house, keep the paint there too, even warm it up by immersion in hot (not boiling) water, will help the "flow" I would test on the fork first, if you botch it, much easier to redo.
Gloss black is the hardest, EVERYTHING shows.
*****es love tarck
Originally Posted by repechage
If you do gloss black in less than ideal conditions, you will probably not be happy with the results. If I were you, I'd do a light color, something metallic or wait till it's a little warmer.
The good Dr. may correct me, I have only painted cars, not bikes, but I concur with the replys, wet sand 400 then 600. All paint orange peels and sanding is the only way to remove the bumps. Who ever invents non-orange peel paint will be very rich. If you don't sand, gloss black will highlight the imperfections, flat white will hide them the best.
A good trick for sanding primer is to overspray black onto the primer. This is done by lightly spraying black at 2-3 feet from the frame. You do NOT want a good coverage, you just want some black to get into the crevices of the orange peel. This lets you know when to stop sanding when the black disappears.
Dont forget the clear coat!
50's is about the lowest of the low end for decent painting. Refer to the note about NOT clearing at the end of the day.
Originally Posted by MrCjolsen
That about cover it, in a nutshell.
Good luck, have fun
and post pictures
when you're done!
Unique Vintage Steel
"And that Ladies and Gentleman, is how you paint a bicycle frame"
Dr. D, wish you were around with some of those pointers when I was painting the Cuda last year. It came out great nonetheless, but sure could have used some of those tips along the way!
Sorta looks like this...
and the last picture is review...
Applying the StickFace headtube emblem.
Dr D explains it all in detail, which is great, but I think my explanation is a little easier to understand. Here it is.
Originally Posted by cuda2k
1. Get frame from customer.
2. Some stuff happens.
3. Return painted frame to customer.
Way easier, eh?
Dr D, you rule. Thanks for the help, both here and on the phone.