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Old 07-05-07, 12:57 PM   #1
rollsroyce
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Opinions on new Campagnolo hubs

trying to find a suitable replacement front wheel for this one:

...all the components are Campy SR and C-rec, so I've been looking for a 32H front hub of the same make/model. No luck. So recently, out of frustration, I've thought about just ordering a new hub.

What are peoples' opinions of the mid range of new Campy hubs, particularly Veloce and Centaur, in comparison to the older Super Record and C-Record hubs?

Is the preference for vintage stuff entirely aesthetic? Dare I say that the new hubs might even be mechanically superior?
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Old 07-05-07, 01:04 PM   #2
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The old SR and C-R components were probably better-finished than the lower-end new stuff, and their bearing cones and races may be harder (more durable), but I doubt there is much practical difference. On my Bianchi I am running 1980s Gran Sport 32H low-flange hubs which I bought on eBay about 4 years ago.
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Old 07-05-07, 01:07 PM   #3
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Check eBay, wheels come up all the time.
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Old 07-05-07, 01:11 PM   #4
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Would you like some salsa on that taco?
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Old 07-05-07, 01:23 PM   #5
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why not just lace a new rim to that hub?
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Old 07-05-07, 01:26 PM   #6
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Old 07-05-07, 01:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rollsroyce
Ahhh....

I could use the internals and oil clip in particular.... would you let em go?
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Old 07-05-07, 01:30 PM   #8
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I have checked ebay, every day since my wreck, but I'm in need of a wheel now and can't really wait for one to come up. There's a few sew-up front wheels on there now, but I'm looking for a clincher. Also I've found that most of the SR hubs tend to be laced to hard anno'd or grey rims. I am looking for a silver rim.
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Old 07-05-07, 01:33 PM   #9
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Ahhh....

I could use the internals and oil clip in particular.... would you let em go?
Not sure yet. If I find another SR hub or hub shell I might use them if I need them, but if I decide to go with a new hub or dont need them, you can have em. I'll let you know when I find a new wheel.
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Old 07-05-07, 01:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rollsroyce
Not sure yet. If I find another SR hub or hub shell I might use them if I need them, but if I decide to go with a new hub or dont need them, you can have em. I'll let you know when I find a new wheel.
Thanks, I am short an oil clip for corky's front wheel and the chrome is peeled and rusted on the dustcaps.
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Old 07-05-07, 01:46 PM   #11
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my experience is that the old cup and cone hubs run smoother than the new sealed
bearing stuff. Spin an wheel built around a super record hub and it's like the Eveready bunny,
it just keeps going. Do the same with a new sealed bearing hub and its doesn't run as long.
Now, can I feel the difference on the road? I don't think so.

Marty
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Old 07-05-07, 02:06 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rollsroyce
I have checked ebay, every day since my wreck, but I'm in need of a wheel now and can't really wait for one to come up. There's a few sew-up front wheels on there now, but I'm looking for a clincher. Also I've found that most of the SR hubs tend to be laced to hard anno'd or grey rims. I am looking for a silver rim.
Ahhh, I see. Maybe just buy a cheapie for now and wait for a good one to show. Did your frame check out OK?
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Old 07-05-07, 02:35 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Old Fat Guy
Ahhh, I see. Maybe just buy a cheapie for now and wait for a good one to show.
You know, I might just do that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Fat Guy
Did your frame check out OK?
It did. Everyone who looked at it suggested its most likely a crack in the brittle Italian paint. The tube did experience some stress in that area from the crash, but nothing structurally compromising. Gotta love steel!
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Old 07-05-07, 03:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lotek
my experience is that the old cup and cone hubs run smoother than the new sealed
bearing stuff. Spin an wheel built around a super record hub and it's like the Eveready bunny,
it just keeps going. Do the same with a new sealed bearing hub and its doesn't run as long.
Now, can I feel the difference on the road? I don't think so.

Marty

+1 there. I routinely coast much faster than do other riders in my club that ride new bikes - even people who are heavier than me. This is about the only advantage I have over them.
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Old 07-05-07, 03:29 PM   #15
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I've got a new set of Chorus hubs on my Palo Alto, and it glides forever. I like them a lot.

I have another set of Campy hubb'ed wheels - Veloce up front and something else (Athena?) in the rear. They are good, smooth hubs as well. It's a 9/10 speed hub set, and it's up for sale if you want it. They are laced to Mavic CXP 21 rims, I believe.

PM me if interested.
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Old 07-05-07, 05:08 PM   #16
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I have a xenon hub probably 36 hole and the bearings feel rough. maybe you could refurb it with your internals and viola! new hub. I don't want anything for it accept the oil clip.
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Old 07-05-07, 11:47 PM   #17
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My Bianchi has Veloce 32h hubs. The rear uses cartridge bearings but the front is a traditional cup and cone design but the cones are hard to find and expensive. Branfordbike.com recommends buying a new Veloce hub and stripping it for parts if you need replacements. It is pretty cheap though. Since I already have a perfectly good wheel I may go the route recommended on Branford bike for some new cones and bearings but if I were building a new wheel I'd probably go with Centaur which seems more durable and repairable.
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Old 07-06-07, 12:40 AM   #18
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Campagnolo hubs are smooth becase the components are precision. The axel has nicely cut threads that are concentric radial and axial. The cones are bored and threaded the same, with the bearing surfaces precision ground and lapped.
The race inserts and the hub all precision fit and aligned, very nice. but cost more to produce.
Here is how they fail, if you adjust the bearings to no play but smooth when you turn them, they will load when the skewres are tightend.
Metal is elastic like rubber, just harder. The skewers will actually compress the axel and bind or load the bearings causing the cones or races to pit or have metal torn away and the balls to get flat spots ect.
Check it out for yourself this way. Adjust a bare hub to zero play, install it on a frame and check the increased drag.
So this means, a slight amount of shake or play should be left in the cone adjustment so when the skewers are tightend and the axel is compressed the bearings will not be over loaded.
How much play depends on how tight you clamp the skewers.
Lubrication, Well, I have seen many use off the shelf products like Lubriplate or automotive grease. Campagnolo at one time anyway, sold a reasonable quality grease.
When I was racing I used oil, Mobil Velocite medium spindle oil. Not practical for general riding however.
What I use now is Exxon Andock Precision filtered spindle bearing grease. This grease is made for angular contact bearings simular to cone bearing bike hubs but for precision machine tool spindles. Cost is about $90 for 50cc syringe.
The bearings will last more than a life time if the bearing preload and lubrication is controlled.

Don
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