Just posted this in the miyata yahoo group but i figure i might as well share with you people too. These pages have been great references for me thanks everyone!
Now before I give you the pictures, please keep in mind that I KNOW I'M A GIANT I just wanted to build my own bike and this frame was in the best condition i could find, and for the price it was a steal. I plan to get a bigger frame in time. I forgot to say that to the miyata group and i received like 5 emails in a half hour about how i need a bigger bike.SN: J542333
Bought for $25 because it was rust free (literally)
Original components (dérailleurs) were seized and i broke the rear
brake when i was attempting to tune it up. Checked inside the frame,
it appears to have frame saver (rustless but a white residue inside).
Rode it for a while w/ the old tires, loved it, so decided to put some
money in it and fix it up.
Installed the following:
-Stainless steel cables & Teflon housing
-Shimano 105 brakes front and rear (had to modify the mounts a little
for the pads to be able to reach)
-Shimano Deore rear derailleuer
-Continental Ultra Sport 27x1 1/4" tires and new tubes
-Shimano downstem shift levers,
-350mm seatpost (diameter is 26.7 on the frame, tube is 26.6 but it
holds just fine)
-New bar tape
-Rubber hoods for brake levers
what a great bike! this is my favorite bike i've ever riden (and its
too small!). I enjoy it even over the soma frames i've had a chance
to test out.
ok, now here's the pics
Oh yea, about the aero's i put on. There were 2 problems updating from the old originals to the new 105's.
1: The mounting bolts for both the rear and front brakes did not come all the way through the frame and the nut was too wide to fit inside the holes drilled for the old school breaks.
2: The reach on these brakes were about 2mm too short and were touching the tire rubbers, which obviously is my fault for not taking in reach for consideration.
so what i did was this:
I took a dremel w/ a carbide shaving bit to the frame to widen the rear hole just enough so i could slide the centering nut onto the bolt (left yellow circle). I had to do this to both the front and rear mounts of the break. remember, if you are going to do this, i am only talking about the hole farthest caliper itself, if you do both you will lose the tight fit you need prevent any flex. also be sure to keep the holes aligned best you can or your brake will go on crooked.
for the reach all i did was take a file (******* cut, they should have it at any hardware store) to the bottom of the shoe's height adjustment track (right yellow circle) and filed away just enough to allow the shoes to contact the rim. also, i shaved the brakes a little bit so they taper in just in case.
thanks for checking it out!