littledjahn

I've come a cross an old 1st generation C Record hub that needs to be rebuilt, and before I pack the new bearings in my Park grease, I thought I'd consult with you. Which grease do you use for special occasions like this?

Dr.Deltron

You're kidding, right???

That's what my little tub o' Campy grease is for!

All other bearings get the "Blue Goo", otherwise known as Sta-Lube boat trailer wheel bearing grease.
I also use that for greasing threads etc.
Shift & brake wires get Phil Wood grease and Tri-Flow.

Scooper

I use Phil Waterproof grease, but others say any quality automotive waterproof grease is just as good.

Stacey

Use whatever holds your balls in place.

littledjahn

Anything a little more readily available?

Matsuri

I have this "marine grease" from an auto store. I like that stuff. I also use expensive grease for a racecar, since I get it for free, but they look the same pretty much. And I use grease liberally on EVERYTHING. Well except for the things that you're not supposed to use grease for.

dbakl

I've always just used the white grease tub from the auto store. Never liked Phil Wood grease, seems to break down pretty fast.

BoxerRumble

Which parts are you not suppose to grease? I'm completely new with bikes but pretty good with cars. I have a tub of vavoline synthetic grease that's suppose to be pretty good that i'll be using for the bike.

littledjahn

You basically grease anywhere that metal touches metal. There's some debate about the crank/bb spindle interface, but I've always greased that with no problems.

dbakl

Grease: certainly any bearings; hubs, headset, bottom bracket. Some friction lever internals like Campagnolo. I always coat stem and seatpost with grease where they insert into fork and frame. I don't grease spindle to crank, but that's just me. Grease the bare cables before they go in the housing. Oil on other moving parts. Most importantly, anti-seize on freewheel to hub threads and pedal to crank threads. Steel, aluminum, moisture and time form a battery effect, causing them to fuse together.

San Rensho 

Any grease works, bicycles have essentially no load, speed or heat compared to anything motorized so all auto grease is overkill.

Having said that, I use tubes of CV joint greae, cheap and convenient. When I use the Tub-O-Grease, which I've had for 10+ years, I have to excavate about a half inch of crud encrusted grease from the top of the tub to get down to the usable grease.

Dr.Deltron

+1!
Although when I grease the BB spindle, it's a VERY light coat!

The ONLY place I don't grease is the threads of the bolts that hold the cantilever arms to the frame.
Loc-Tite those threads and tighten the bolts lightly.

And don't forget to grease under the heads of bolts, and between nuts & washers.

Dr.Deltron

I politely disagree. I have never found anti-seize to be useful anywhere on a bike that grease wouldn't be better.

(IMHO, that is)

stringbreaker

I have a tube of Phils but man it stinks even after you wash your hands but it works well. I've also used plain old grease from Valvoline oil company. Marine grade stuff if you are gonna be riding in a lot of rain but its not like there is a lot of load on them. The Phils is kinda pricey so when its gone I'm going back to my tub o Valvoline

Dr.Deltron

???

When I attended the last N.A.H.B.S., I got a new tube from Phil himself for $5.
(the old tube has been in my shop since '87, mainly due to the fact that I only use it on brake/shift wires)

CardiacKid

If you are going to be generating over 5000 rpm and 250 ft/lbs of torque, while being exposed to saltwater, worry about the kind of grease you are using. I can't generate those numbers and haven't taken my bike underwater in years, so I use regular old Walmart grease. Now that I think about it, that is the same stuff I use in my truck, which does generate those numbers.

USAZorro

Call me brainwashed, but I'm quite content to use the Park grease.

Well, actually, I do have one little complaint. The guys at the LBS told me the tube I was getting was a lifetime supply. I guess they think my lifetime is about the equivalent of a small, undomesticated rodent, since I just purchased a replacement after two and a half years.

solveg

I DID forget that! I didn't even think of that....

HDFACTORYCERTIF

My oh my. this subject did get hot over in the mechanics area, This in my opinion and many in various industry regard as a very high quality grease.
https://www.mahr.com/index.php?print=1&NodeID=7236

bbattle

I've got a spray can of lithium grease sitting around the house. Thought I might use that on my current project. Convenient and no mess.

CardiacKid

That was a very entertaining exchange. For those of us who don't spend much time in the Mechanics forum, here is a link.
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/336806-right-way-pack-hub.html
FYI, I just inspected and lubed the Campy hubs on my Pinarello, before I sold it, and they were smooth and shiny.

miamijim

From my own personal experience....

Phil Wood....breaks down quicker than any grease I've ever worked with. Hardens and oils seperate out.

Campy...Excellent grease. Oils wil seperate in container so you need to mix it up if you see this.

Shimano Dura-Ace...by the the best grease I've ever come across. It doesnt break down and oils dont seperate out.

If you open up a hub that hasnt been used in a few years your observe what I've noted above. That being said...Phil Wood and Park grease are very easy to find. Campy grease is hard to find and Shimano grease is almost impossible to find.

Bicycle specific grease is a ripoff. Myself? I picked up a tub of Mobil 1 from Pepboys for $14.

Matsuri

I can describe the marine grease that I use best by saying that it looks like earwax. I like this stuff because its pretty tacky, so rebuilding hubs and other things of the sort is alot easier. It will really grip your balls well.

I've used some black lithium grease. It was way too thin and made whatever I was working on messier because it wouldnt stick to my finger as well. And since I use ALOT of grease on things (better too much than too little), it was more annoying to wipe up the excess due to the lack of viscocity.

Antipodes

Olive oil is good for Sturmey Archer hubs and super smooth peanut butter is great for everything else...

McDave

+1 on the Sta-Lube boat trailer/marine grease. Bicycle seals generally aren't the best in the world so the extra moisture protection a marine grease affords makes it worthwhile. It also has the correct consistency for bikes over a wide temperature range.

Some of the premium automotive type greases can be downright stiff causing too much drag, while other greases like the lithium mentioned above can be too thin and separate easily, particularly in hot weather. Sta-Lube is just right. Basic Valvoline Multi-purpose is a good second choice if you must use automotive type.

PS For special occasions I break out the lard. There's nothing better for your refried beans and cornbread.